When I first saw the trend for large collared blouses I swore I wouldn’t go near them 🙂 And then I saw McCalls 8180 and I decided to try it out. It’s a really cute design, but personally I feel the drafting is a little bit off/ I need to make further modifications.
The main issue I have with the drafting is that there is no ease in the sleeve cap. I suspect that this has been done perhaps to make the pattern “easier to sew”? Together with the way you are told to finish the “slit” at the sleeve opening that allows the cuff to be opened and closed (next time I would probably just make a standard continuous lapped placket), I do wonder sometimes about “dumbing down” of instructions to make patterns more appealing to beginner sewists. I am all for encouraging new sewists but I imagine it would be much more disappointing for a beginner sewist to get through this blouse only to find the sleeve uncomfortable. Typical ease on a sleeve cap is 1 – 1.5 inches I believe. Thanks to a follower on Instagram I was able to save this project by lowering the sleeve (not the bodice armhole – the sleeve) armscye by 5/8ths inch, tapering to nothing at the dots which essentially gave me some extra height. It’s not perfect but makes this blouse wearable.
The fabric BTW is a very pretty off-white viscose which has a metallic rose gold lurex thread running through it at intervals. Apparently deadstock from Barcelona, and available from Rainbow Fabrics. Hard to photograph but I have included a close up below. I initially thought the side with the more obvious threads was the wrong side, but again, someone on Instagram said they felt it was actually the right side, and I am glad I went with the more obvious side as the right side because otherwise those threads are incredibly itchy and scratchy. But when they are worn on the outside the fabric is soft and comfortable.
I do have to say that I probably need to shift the bust darts down by maybe 0.5 inches and that is also contributing to throwing the fit off ever so slightly. I have not had a chance to wear this blouse yet. I just haven’t had the opportunity. But I hope I get to wear it a few times before this trend passes.
Misses’ peter pan ruffled, collared blouses with short & long sleeves. View A: ruffled collar. View B & C: large collar.
I made view C.
6 – 24. I made a size 18, grading out one size at the waist.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. Over simplified in my opinion.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
My major dislike is the lack of ease in the sleeve cap which made the sleeves very uncomfortable for me. I saved this project by lowering the sleeve (not the bodice armhole – the sleeve) armscye by 5/8ths inch, tapering to nothing at the dots which essentially gave me some extra height. It’s not perfect but makes this blouse wearable. I also didn’t like the way you are told to finish the “slit” at the sleeve opening that allows the cuff to be opened and closed and next time I would probably just make a standard continuous lapped placket. I do think this is a cute and very on trend design. Also if I made this again I think my bust darts need to come down by about 0.5 inches.
Off-white viscose which has a metallic rose gold lurex thread running through it at intervals.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- 5/8th inch forward shoulder adjustment
- 1 inch full bust adjustment
- Shortened bust darts by 1.25 inches
- 1 inch sway back adjustment adding removed length back at hem
- Lengthened blouse by 1.5 inches
- Shortened sleeve by 2 inches
- Did 1 inch full arm adjustment. Took 3/8ths inch seam allowance at the bicep area
- Took 3/8ths inch seam allowance at side seams at high hip and added a further 0.5 inches below the waist at the side seams
- Took 3 inches out of the width of the size 18 cuff
- Lowered the sleeve (not bodice armhole – the sleeve) armscye by 5/8ths inch tapering to nothing at the dots to give extra “height” which was missing in the sleeve as drafted
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t know if I will sew this again. It depends how much I get to actually wear this version. I am not sure I recommend this pattern unless you are confident making adjustments if you need them.
This blouse is cute and on trend. And I get it is designed to be semi-fitted. But I don’t normally need to do such a large FBA and the sleeves disappointed me. But who knows: I may make this again if the trend hangs around.
See you all soon!