BUtterick 6331: DIY Midi Length cotton twill Trench

Butterick 6331 midi length trench

Hey Everyone,

Today I am revisiting a pattern I made some 4 years ago; Butterick 6331. Here’s a link to the first version, and a picture below so you can see it. As designed, it is supposed to be a short trench, with an elastic casing in the back to give some shaping. I actually made both outfits in the older picture and the more recent pictures. Seeing these pictures like this in the same post really highlight how much my style and tastes have changed over the years 🙂

Butterick 6331 Short Trench

The shorter version of this trench was claimed by my daughter during my last wardrobe purge. I found the shorter length harder to wear, and disliked the fact that I had had to piece the facings. Also, I had struggled to add a lining to the shorter version (it is designed to be unlined), so on this version I went with a partially bias bound seam finish/ partially overlocked finish. My fabric for this longer, midi length version is a sturdy, heavy weight cotton twill that I found on eBay.

Butterick 6331 midi length trench
Butterick 6331 midi length trench – inside partial bias bind finish on seams
Butterick 6331 midi length trench – inside bias bind finish on seams

I enjoyed working on this project and figuring out what changes I wanted to make to the pattern to make it more suitable for my current style. I used the triple stitch setting on my machine to top stitch all the seams and appreciated how much easier that was, rather than swapping over to a top stitching thread, which I don’t always like to use. I added welt pockets following this tutorial from the Grainline Tamarack jacket. Not sure what possessed me to add welt pockets to an unlined coat, but I think I just about got away with it.

Butterick 6331 midi length trench
Butterick 6331 midi length trench
Butterick 6331 midi length trench

Overall I am really thrilled with how this turned out. It’s such a classic piece that I hope I will wear for many years to come.

Butterick 6331 midi length trench

Pattern Alterations for this version of Butterick 6331

  • 5/8ths inch FBA
  • Added 35 cm to the length
  • Added a centre back seam to the back piece and a back vent (I used this tutorial to add the vent)
  • Took 3/8ths inch seam allowance for the side seams
  • Added a back facing
  • Added welt pockets
  • Omitted the back casing and sewed a separate belt with carriers
  • Added carriers and tabs at the sleeves
  • Omitted the back overlay
  • Used a mixture of a bias bound finish and overlocking to finish seam allowances

See you all soon!

Butterick 6331 midi length trench

Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

8 thoughts on “BUtterick 6331: DIY Midi Length cotton twill Trench

  1. Wow, your sewing is always so immaculate. Those seam bindings look amazing and so does the finished coat.

  2. Another beautiful piece. This coat looks lovely on you. I like the welt pockets. And the bound seams are sewn so nicely that you wear this inside out ! Well done. You are an inspiration.

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