Today I am revisiting a pattern I made some 4 years ago; Butterick 6331. Here’s a link to the first version, and a picture below so you can see it. As designed, it is supposed to be a short trench, with an elastic casing in the back to give some shaping. I actually made both outfits in the older picture and the more recent pictures. Seeing these pictures like this in the same post really highlight how much my style and tastes have changed over the years 🙂
The shorter version of this trench was claimed by my daughter during my last wardrobe purge. I found the shorter length harder to wear, and disliked the fact that I had had to piece the facings. Also, I had struggled to add a lining to the shorter version (it is designed to be unlined), so on this version I went with a partially bias bound seam finish/ partially overlocked finish. My fabric for this longer, midi length version is a sturdy, heavy weight cotton twill that I found on eBay.
I enjoyed working on this project and figuring out what changes I wanted to make to the pattern to make it more suitable for my current style. I used the triple stitch setting on my machine to top stitch all the seams and appreciated how much easier that was, rather than swapping over to a top stitching thread, which I don’t always like to use. I added welt pockets following this tutorial from the Grainline Tamarack jacket. Not sure what possessed me to add welt pockets to an unlined coat, but I think I just about got away with it.
Overall I am really thrilled with how this turned out. It’s such a classic piece that I hope I will wear for many years to come.
Pattern Alterations for this version of Butterick 6331
- 5/8ths inch FBA
- Added 35 cm to the length
- Added a centre back seam to the back piece and a back vent (I used this tutorial to add the vent)
- Took 3/8ths inch seam allowance for the side seams
- Added a back facing
- Added welt pockets
- Omitted the back casing and sewed a separate belt with carriers
- Added carriers and tabs at the sleeves
- Omitted the back overlay
- Used a mixture of a bias bound finish and overlocking to finish seam allowances
See you all soon!