This jacket kind of started off as one thing, but ended up as another. I found what looked like an easier, quicker method of making a quilted French style jacket, shared by Alexander Denton on Instagram. Her method cuts down on hand sewing by sewing the outer jacket shell pieces together first (at the vertical seams, leaving the shoulder seams open), and the lining pieces in the same manner, and then quilting the lining shell directly to the outer shell. Unfortunately when I tried it, I had horrible shifting of my two layers, and my silk charmeuse lining was puckering terribly. I had to abandon that idea (so much for finding an easy way!) and, in order to save my Linton tweed, (picked up from the sale rail at the showroom – remember I live 20 minutes from there), I interfaced the entire jacket and sewed it in the conventional manner. Overall, I think it was worth saving 🙂
As with most Linton tweeds you don’t know the exact composition of their fabrics. I am pretty sure this is wool heavy though. It had that distinctive wool smell when I was pressing it. It feels warm and the neutral colours go with lots of items in my wardrobe. I am going to be really honest and say, looking at these photographs, I will probably eventually go back and either add shoulder pads and/ or maybe take some width out of the shoulders by taking it in at the shoulder princess seams. I deliberately didn’t want to add shoulder pads because I felt it would make the jacket feel more tailored, which I didn’t want, but I can see my shoulders sloping downwards and it just doesn’t look great (maybe looks worse because this jacket has no closures). It won’t stop me wearing this jacket (if I ever get the chance!), but something I will do at some point.
I deliberated over trim choice and eventually found some trim which is a braid with a metal chain running through the middle. What I didn’t want was to end up with a jacket which felt very fancy or flashy which I might not reach for as much. So I just went for subtle, and hand sewed some of the trim to the pockets (which were also hand sewn on to the jacket). I found my trim on eBay, but you can also purchase it here.
I like this classic addition to my wardrobe. Even without the shoulder alteration I still like it. Will I ever make a quilted French jacket? Hmmmm….I am not sure. I know I would definitely enjoy the luxurious feel of wearing one, but at this stage in my sewing life, I am not sure I can commit to making one. 🙂 Have a great Sunday!
- I have made this jacket twice before: see here for version 1 in tweed and here for version 2 in quilted cotton
- This version is a straight size 18 with 3/8ths inch added to all vertical seams. I also added 0.5 inches from the hem up to the waist at the back/side back seams. Next time I think I need to take some width out of the shoulders
- I did a 0.5 inch forward should adjustment
- I shortened the sleeve by 2 inches
- I added lined patch pockets by hand, with trim
- The jacket is fully interfaced with a fusible stitch reinforced interfacing
- I stayed the shoulders with stay tape and added sleeve heads made of fleece
- I had to cut my facings on the cross grain due to fabric limitations (I had 2 x 1 metre lengths of this fabric to work with)
- I bagged the lining out