Hi Everyone,
This jacket kind of started off as one thing, but ended up as another. I found what looked like an easier, quicker method of making a quilted French style jacket, shared by Alexander Denton on Instagram. Her method cuts down on hand sewing by sewing the outer jacket shell pieces together first (at the vertical seams, leaving the shoulder seams open), and the lining pieces in the same manner, and then quilting the lining shell directly to the outer shell. Unfortunately when I tried it, I had horrible shifting of my two layers, and my silk charmeuse lining was puckering terribly. I had to abandon that idea (so much for finding an easy way!) and, in order to save my Linton tweed, (picked up from the sale rail at the showroom – remember I live 20 minutes from there), I interfaced the entire jacket and sewed it in the conventional manner. Overall, I think it was worth saving 🙂
As with most Linton tweeds you don’t know the exact composition of their fabrics. I am pretty sure this is wool heavy though. It had that distinctive wool smell when I was pressing it. It feels warm and the neutral colours go with lots of items in my wardrobe. I am going to be really honest and say, looking at these photographs, I will probably eventually go back and either add shoulder pads and/ or maybe take some width out of the shoulders by taking it in at the shoulder princess seams. I deliberately didn’t want to add shoulder pads because I felt it would make the jacket feel more tailored, which I didn’t want, but I can see my shoulders sloping downwards and it just doesn’t look great (maybe looks worse because this jacket has no closures). It won’t stop me wearing this jacket (if I ever get the chance!), but something I will do at some point.
I deliberated over trim choice and eventually found some trim which is a braid with a metal chain running through the middle. What I didn’t want was to end up with a jacket which felt very fancy or flashy which I might not reach for as much. So I just went for subtle, and hand sewed some of the trim to the pockets (which were also hand sewn on to the jacket). I found my trim on eBay, but you can also purchase it here.
I like this classic addition to my wardrobe. Even without the shoulder alteration I still like it. Will I ever make a quilted French jacket? Hmmmm….I am not sure. I know I would definitely enjoy the luxurious feel of wearing one, but at this stage in my sewing life, I am not sure I can commit to making one. 🙂 Have a great Sunday!
Fitting Notes
- I have made this jacket twice before: see here for version 1 in tweed and here for version 2 in quilted cotton
- This version is a straight size 18 with 3/8ths inch added to all vertical seams. I also added 0.5 inches from the hem up to the waist at the back/side back seams. Next time I think I need to take some width out of the shoulders
- I did a 0.5 inch forward should adjustment
- I shortened the sleeve by 2 inches
- I added lined patch pockets by hand, with trim
- The jacket is fully interfaced with a fusible stitch reinforced interfacing
- I stayed the shoulders with stay tape and added sleeve heads made of fleece
- I had to cut my facings on the cross grain due to fabric limitations (I had 2 x 1 metre lengths of this fabric to work with)
- I bagged the lining out
Until soon!
sewmanju 
I like your cotton version better. Has more pizazz and it is more unique. Wear it with pride! Great job on all of them.!
Thanks. I definitely prefer this one. Guess its just my changing tastes.
Gorgeous! I love it. Beautifully done, especially with your two separate yards of fabric.
Thanks! Yeah, I thought I did well too. Forgot to mention I did end up having to cut my facings on the cross grain, but still all good.
It looks great, the plaid matching is perfect and the color looks versatile, like you can add it to a lot of outfits. Your comments about the shape are interesting. I have made two of these style jackets, and I don’t really like wearing either despite using fabric I liked. I think I just need a collar and/or lapel and some structure to feel comfortable wearing a jacket. Also – fusibles – I just made a wool blazer using all hand tailoring techniques and whew!, I love fusibles and will stick with them in the future 🙂
Definitely with you on fusibles Beth. I do like the style of this jacket, but I hope to make a couple of blazers this summer. Let’s see how I get on.
Ah, now I remember this jacket from your earlier posts. About the shoulders… My shoulders slope just as much, and I’ve learnt never to use an obvious horizontal stripe anywhere nearby. Not even a raglan, if the seam shows at all, because it emphasizes my slope.
I looked at your earlier versions and they’re lovely! That other tweed doesn’t have such bold horizontal lines, so it there’s not such at contrast with your shoulders. But that’s just my take, looking from across the pond. I’d be inclined to stick some shoulder pads in to check the look before deciding whether to sew ’em in. 😉 Enjoy your jacket because you’ve done beautiful work!
Interesting comment Del. I had never considered that about the horizontal stripe. I will think on that. Thanks for the comment!
You’re very welcome, Manju.
Happy contemplating!
I
It’s a beautiful jacket, I love the fabric and the trim. Lovely work! ❤️
Thank you Linda.
I think it would be better to narrow the shoulders and maybe even add more height to the sleeve head..my shoulders are the same as yours.
Thanks Maria!
It might be worth inserting some sleeve head canvas, s it will help to raise and support that area.
Thanks for the suggestion Christine.
Looks great. I’ve sometimes sewn the princess seams in both boucle and lining, aligned seams and quilted. Then do the side seams in traditional way. It saves a little time but I agree with you that it’s very difficult to get everything to line up if you do all the seams the short-cut way.
Thanks Mary. Yep I agree. Quick is not always best, but truthfully, I don’t think I truly have the patience or inclination to sew to your beautiful couture standards 🙂
This is such a beautiful, timeless jacket. I know you will wear it for many years and always feel proud each time. I’ve sewn V7975 many times over the years and it’s no surprise that it remains a current pattern in the line.
Thanks Karen.
Great post
Thanks for sharing