Back with another pair of pants! This time, it’s the turn of the Closet Core Pietra Pants made in the most perfect heavy weight stone washed linen which was gifted to me by Sew Creative, as part of their ambassador program (all thoughts are my own). Sew Creative are an independent fabric store based in Cheshire, and as well as selling a range of curated fabrics, they also (covid permitting), run sewing classes and parties from their store. This linen was a dream to work with. It is probably one of the heaviest linens I have worked with. It has a textured surface and lots of beautiful drape. Perfect weight for trousers. It washed, pressed and sewed beautifully, but be warned, stitches sink into this fabric so any unpicking has to be done with care!
Let’s talk about the pattern. The Pietra Pants have been around for a little while, and have already proven to be very popular according to the hashtag on Instagram. Couple of points to note: when the pattern was first released, there was some backlash about the fact the sizing was very limited (only going up to size 20). After several months, Closet Core subsequently went on to release an extended sizing in sizes 14 – 30 (available in PDF format only). When you purchase the PDF you get all sizes 0 – 30, but essentially two different blocks have been used for drafting, so, for example, the size 14 measurements in the “smaller block” set is slightly different to the size 14 measurements in the “larger block” set. Study the given measurements before deciding which size to cut. These pants are the size 20 cut from the “smaller block” set. They worked well for me with minimal fit alterations.
The second thing you may want to note is that my trousers are a straight size 20. In the end I ended up removing approximately 2.5 inches of length of elastic from the recommended length for the size 20. But I can still easily pull these on and off without any issues. But if you have to grade between sizes because your waist measurement puts you at a smaller size than your hips, you may struggle to get these trousers past your hips easily. In that case, you may wish to add an invisible zipper into the side seam and Closet Core have a tutorial to help you with that.
Overall I am really pleased with how these have turned out. I am not someone who tends to wear linen during the colder months, although these are nice and heavy, but come spring I think these will get lots of wear. Check out my full review below.
A flat front, high-waisted silhouette with the comfort of an elastic waist in the back. Featuring lengthening panels in the front with slanted hip pockets and a hidden waist stay, you’ll never want to take them off.
Choose between four leg styles: a wide leg in floor-skimming or cropped length (View A), a slim and tapered leg (View B), or gently flared shorts (View C).
I made view B.
PDF pattern available in sizes 0 – 30.
Note that sizes 0 – 20 are drafted using one block, and sizes 14 – 30 are drafted using a different block. There is some overlap between sizes 14 – 20 between both block drafts. e.g. the size 14 measurements from the smaller block are different to the size 14 from the larger block. Study the measurements to decide which size you should go for.
Mine are a size 20 from the smaller size block range.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love how easily these came together with minimal alterations and how comfortable they are. High waisted, pull-on, love the leg lengthening seams which also offer fit opportunities and an easy make. Nothing to dislike, although if you have to grade between sizes for your waist and hip you may have to consider adding an invisible zipper at the side seam. Closet Core have a tutorial for this available.
Heavy stone washed linen.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I added 1 inch to the rise in the back
- I added 0.5 inches to the front vertical seams down past the hips
- I measured down to the fullest part of my tummy from the waist seam and slashed and spread across and added in a 0.5 inch wedge by way of a full tummy adjustment
- I shortened the legs by 2 inches
- I ended up making the elastic about 2.5 inches shorter than the suggested length for my size
- I narrowed the leg openings by 1 inch in total, by removing 0.25 inches from the inner and outer legs, front and back
- I tool 1 and 7/8ths inch for the hem
- I ended up raising the crotch by 1.5 inches. My toile didn’t show that I needed to do that, but a combination of my other alterations and maybe this heavy weight linen meant I felt it was necessary
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I might sew these again. They are a great pattern to have. I would recommend.
Lock down dressing just got a little more adventurous 😉
See you soon!