I have been dreaming of making a pair of high waisted, tapered leg ecru coloured mom style jeans for ages, and had a length of ecru coloured bull denim in my stash when a new-to-me pattern company, Muna and Broad, released this pattern. These are the Noice jeans and I really like them. In case you didn’t know, Muna and Broad are a relatively new pattern company who design modern patterns specifically for plus size sewists (40 – 64″ bust; 41.5 – 71.5″ hips). I like the fact their designs, whilst for plus size bodies, are stylish and contemporary. Their instructions are good, and there is a you tube sewalong for this pattern available. BTW, they also promise that if their patterns are too small for you, they will grade them up to include you, which I think is very generous.
Getting back to my denim, the pattern advises you to use heavy weight non stretch denim – minimum 10 oz weight. I felt the bull denim I had in my stash was a little too lightweight, so I ordered 2.5 metres of this beautiful 11.5 oz denim from Merchant and Mills. Whilst heavy, this denim was easy to sew and is very soft. It does say that this (organic) denim is pre-shrunk. By the time I had finished sewing these jeans I felt they were a little loose, so I threw them in a hot wash and tumble dried them and now I think they are perfect. I will have to wear them and see if they loosen up and by how much. I love the bound finish on the inner waistband – cuts down on a lot of bulk.
Typically I would have made a full tummy adjustment and a full bum adjustment on any pair of trousers, but I didn’t have to for this pair of jeans, which was a refreshing change. The pattern comes with two different fit options for the back, as well as two different leg shape options. That’s not to say I didn’t fiddle with the fit. See my review below for full details. I found the front crotch length a tad too long and some of my changes I think are to do with my specific denim, but overall, I love how these have turned out. I think they will get lots of wear, which makes me happy.
The Noice Jeans are the perfect non-stretch jeans with an ultra-high rise.
View A is the Muna and Broad take on the Mum/Mom jean silhouette. The fit is roomy through the hip and thigh, and gently tapers to the ankle. View B is a wide leg style with a deep hem.
41.5-71.5″ (105-182cm) Hip
I made view A, fit 2, waist size A (with modifications), grading to a size C at the yoke and down.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I think so.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are very good. I just have my own preferences/ order of sewing for jeans so I sometimes deviated from them.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Overall I love the fit and the fact I didn’t have to do my standard adjustments for trousers (typically a full bum and full tummy adjustment). I love the high rise and the tapered leg. I love the shaped waistband which has centre back and side seams. I found the instructions telling you which specific pages to print very useful. The only thing I personally found mildly annoying was the very varied seam allowances, but after making a toile I just standardised all the seam allowances to be 0.5 inches. The varying seam allowances are there to facilitate fitting, so they are there for a reason. Also, I do think the order of the instructions mean you need to think ahead to make your top stitching more efficient. Finally, I like to sew my inner legs up first and then baste my outer legs up to try. The pattern has you do the opposite, but I imagine trying to topstitch that inner seam last as being quite tricky.
Organic 11.5 oz ecru denim from Merchant and Mills.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I shortened the legs 3 inches at the lengthen/ shorten lines.
- I took a 0.25 inch tuck out of the back of the waistband to add a little more curve. Ultimately, I ended up removing a total of 3 inches width from the top of the waistband. I took 0.5 inch wedges from the side seams and the centre back seam.
- I took a 1 inch wedge out of the back yoke (0.5 inches from either side of the centre back seam).
- I made the pockets (size A – D pockets) 0.5 inches bigger all round – personal preference.
- I removed about 0.5 inches from the outer legs front and back, below the knee.
- I added 0.5 inches to the back inner leg and extended the back crotch out by 0.5 inches. I also lowered the back crotch by 0.25 inches. As drafted, the back inseam is longer than the front inseam which personally I don’t like (gives a more old fashioned look I feel). I made my back inseam about 0.25 inches shorter than the front.
- Initially I did add 0.5 inches to the front and back side seams from the waist down, to the bottom of the pockets, but I ended up removing this during fitting (think this was due to my denim).
- I standardised all the seam allowances to be 0.5 inches.
- I omitted the stay tape in the pockets but did add it to the waistband. I don’t interface my denim waistbands and I do like the fact my waistband is firm but still soft. I interfaced my zipper area and the tops of my back pockets and the coin pocket.
- I kept the pocket stays (for the first time ever!) and they are very comfortable.
- I added rivets.
- I ended up removing 1 inch of length from the front crotch.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would sew again. Yes, I recommend.
Apparently this year we are going to see many more looser fit jeans flooding the RTW market. I think these jeans are bang on trend, as well as being a great fit for me. I am super happy with how they turned out.