I feel like I may just have found my new favourite trousers pattern! High waist, contoured waistband that doesn’t gape, tapered legs, slash pockets and pleated front. Even though this pattern made me work HARD to get the fit that I wanted I love the end result.
This is a Simplicity Amazing Fit pattern. The one thing that you need to know is that, as designed, this pattern is not supposed to be high waisted. It is designed to sit one inch below the natural waist. BUT I have come to the conclusion that high waisted just feels so much better for me, and works better for my body shape. I did not muslin this pattern, but I did compare the pattern pieces to another Simplicity trousers pattern that I already made and adjusted (Simplicity 8389 – see here for my last version) and made adjustments based on those. I think I got it 95% right: next time I can tweak a bit more.
The fabric is a wool twill that I bought several months ago from Fabworks online. Sorry, it’s now sold out. But this pattern would work well in suitings, crepes, linens, twills or even lightweight denim.
Ready for the adjustment details?
- The pattern comes with three different back pieces; slim, average and curvy. The difference between the pattern pieces is the back crotch length. In the size range that I purchased (16 – 24), the back crotch lengths range from 14.5 inches to 16.5 inches. You select your standard size and then pick which back piece to use by measuring your back crotch length. I think the idea behind this is to eliminate the need to do a full bum adjustment. However, my back crotch length was approximately 0.5 inches longer than the largest size on the pattern, so I knew I would have to make some adjustments.
- I cut a size 22 waist, and graded to a 24 at the hips. My trousers are view A, and I shortened the leg by 12 cm. These trousers are drafted for tall people!
- I did a 1 inch full tummy adjustment
- I lowered the back crotch by 0.5 inch and spread the back inner thigh by 0.25 inches. I lowered the front crotch by 0.25 inches. I also made sure the back crotch was 3/8ths inch lower than the front crotch and stretched the back leg to fit when sewing to try and get a snug fit under the bum. I have spread the back and front inner thighs a bit more for my next version
- I did a 1.5 inch full bum adjustment. This proved to be a bit too much, and I did end up removing some width from the back crotch seam and the side seams.
- I removed 1.5 inches from the width of the front inner and outer legs, and 1 inch from the width of the back inner and outer legs at the lower leg/ leg opening
- I omitted the faux welts
- I omitted the pocket stays
- I added 1 inch to the height of the underlap and fly
- I had to make my back darts and front pleats much bigger to take up excess at the waist. I also lengthened by back darts. I struggled to get decent looking darts tbh. Hopefully next time they will be flawless
Making a pair of dressier black pants in this style has been on my list for ages, and I am very happy with how these have turned out.
See you soon!