Simplicity 8842: diy high waisted pleated front black wool trousers

Simplicity 8842 trousers in wool twill

Hey Everyone,

I feel like I may just have found my new favourite trousers pattern! High waist, contoured waistband that doesn’t gape, tapered legs, slash pockets and pleated front. Even though this pattern made me work HARD to get the fit that I wanted I love the end result.

Simplicity 8842 trousers in wool twill
Simplicity 8842 trousers in wool twill

This is a Simplicity Amazing Fit pattern. The one thing that you need to know is that, as designed, this pattern is not supposed to be high waisted. It is designed to sit one inch below the natural waist. BUT I have come to the conclusion that high waisted just feels so much better for me, and works better for my body shape. I did not muslin this pattern, but I did compare the pattern pieces to another Simplicity trousers pattern that I already made and adjusted (Simplicity 8389 – see here for my last version) and made adjustments based on those. I think I got it 95% right: next time I can tweak a bit more.

Simplicity 8842 trousers in wool twill

The fabric is a wool twill that I bought several months ago from Fabworks online. Sorry, it’s now sold out. But this pattern would work well in suitings, crepes, linens, twills or even lightweight denim.

Simplicity 8842 trousers in wool twill
Simplicity 8842 trousers in wool twill

Ready for the adjustment details?

Pattern Adjustments

  • The pattern comes with three different back pieces; slim, average and curvy. The difference between the pattern pieces is the back crotch length. In the size range that I purchased (16 – 24), the back crotch lengths range from 14.5 inches to 16.5 inches. You select your standard size and then pick which back piece to use by measuring your back crotch length. I think the idea behind this is to eliminate the need to do a full bum adjustment. However, my back crotch length was approximately 0.5 inches longer than the largest size on the pattern, so I knew I would have to make some adjustments.
  • I cut a size 22 waist, and graded to a 24 at the hips. My trousers are view A, and I shortened the leg by 12 cm. These trousers are drafted for tall people!
  • I did a 1 inch full tummy adjustment
  • I lowered the back crotch by 0.5 inch and spread the back inner thigh by 0.25 inches. I lowered the front crotch by 0.25 inches. I also made sure the back crotch was 3/8ths inch lower than the front crotch and stretched the back leg to fit when sewing to try and get a snug fit under the bum. I have spread the back and front inner thighs a bit more for my next version
  • I did a 1.5 inch full bum adjustment. This proved to be a bit too much, and I did end up removing some width from the back crotch seam and the side seams.
  • I removed 1.5 inches from the width of the front inner and outer legs, and 1 inch from the width of the back inner and outer legs at the lower leg/ leg opening
  • I omitted the faux welts
  • I omitted the pocket stays
  • I added 1 inch to the height of the underlap and fly
  • I had to make my back darts and front pleats much bigger to take up excess at the waist. I also lengthened by back darts. I struggled to get decent looking darts tbh. Hopefully next time they will be flawless

Making a pair of dressier black pants in this style has been on my list for ages, and I am very happy with how these have turned out.

See you soon!

Simplicity 8842 trousers in wool twill

Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

8 thoughts on “Simplicity 8842: diy high waisted pleated front black wool trousers

  1. they look fantastic and I especially like the shape of the legs. I find a lot of pleated trouser patterns are too full in the legs and then don’t look very sleek. these are perfection. You should use this pattern to make a suit, it would be so sharp.

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