Simplicity 9052: DIY showerproof utility jacket with fishtail hem and detachable hood

Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket with fishtail style hem

Hey Everyone,

Sometimes we need a deadline to give us focus to complete a project, right? That was the case with this make; we headed off for a short break to the North East coast last week (self catering and socially distanced!), and I decided I needed a new raincoat to take with me (an essential item when packing for any break in the UK :-)). I have had Simplicity 9052 on my to-sew list since it came out. In fact, this is one of those rare occasions where I bought fabric to make this garment whilst (im)patiently waiting for the pattern to be released in the UK. That’s how much I liked the idea of this pattern. And it hasn’t disappointed. TBH, I don’t think any of the Mimi G Style/ Simplicity patterns I have tried to date have disappointed. But this one is really packed with some great features.

Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket with fishtail style hem

Let’s start with the fabric first. This is a showerproof nylon/ cotton blend from Fabworks (still in stock at the moment). I love the neutral colour (goes with everything!) and it has a really high end feel. It was easy to sew and cut, although it will fray so you need to think about your seam finishes – more on that in a moment. It is lightweight but durable. The only thing to be aware of is that it doesn’t hold a press that well. I used a press cloth throughout too, just to be safe.

Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket with fishtail style hem

As ever, there is a full review on this pattern and my modifications down below. But let’s look at some of the details on this jacket.

This jacket is unlined. You need to decide how you are going to finish your seam allowances. I went for a flat fell seam finish, meaning, I sewed the garment pieces wrong sides together, then trimmed one side of seam allowance down, and then turned under the raw edge of the remaining seam allowance, pressed both seam allowances to one side so that the seam allowance with the turned under edge was on top, and then top stitched it in to place. I know some people may feel that it is a bad idea to flat fell seam a jacket intended for wear in the wet, and initially I did start applying seam sealing tape, but it wasn’t adhering properly. I haven’t found the flat fell seaming to be detrimental to the performance of the jacket, but test the finish on your own garment to see what works for you. Personally I love how clean this jacket looks inside; as I show below. I tried to use quilting clips where ever possible to hold pieces together whilst sewing, and if I had to use pins, kept them to within the seam allowance as much as possible.

Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket – interior
Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket – interior
Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket – close up of flat felled seams (interior)

The jacket uses grosgrain ribbon to finish the zipper seam allowances inside, and also to creating the casing for the waist tie. This is the first time I have used this treatment in an unlined garment I and love it. So neat and tidy.

Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket – ribbon finish on jacket interior

The jacket also features a detachable self lined hood, cuffs with button tabs (which are adjustable) and a neat vent detail at the back armhole which I am guessing allows extra movement. If you make the longer length view like me then there is also the fishtail hem finished with another drawstring inside. And the zipper guard. So much attention to detail!

Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket – detachable hood
Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket – close up of sleeve cuff and button tab
Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket – close up of back vent detail
Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket with fishtail style hem

I did size down on the hood, and my hood is a size S which is perfect for me. This jacket is designed to be over sized; there is approximately 10 – 12 inches of positive ease in the jacket, and the only finished measurement which is given is the chest measurement (the jacket is very straight cut). I picked my jacket size according to my chest measurement and graded out over my hips. The buttons on the hood are another neat feature to keep it firmly in place when needed.

Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket with fishtail style hem
Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket with fishtail style hem
Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket with fishtail style hem

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Misses’ Men’s and Teen’s Jacket. Unlined combat or parka jacket has front separating zipper and button placket, Elasticated waist, four front pockets. Two length and hem-style options. Detachable hood.

I made View B.

Pattern Sizing:

XS – XL

This garment is designed to be oversized and there are approximately 10 – 12 inches of positive ease in the garment as designed. The only finished measurement which is given is the chest measurement (the jacket is cut straight through the hips), so I picked the size corresponding to my chest (L) and graded out one size through the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes I think so.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. The only thing I can complain about is a general comment about Simplicity patterns and that is that when it comes to sewing on collars etc, the seam allowances tend to change and no warning is given in the instructions re. stay stitching using a different allowance. But if you use Simplicity patterns a lot you will already know this.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I absolutely love this pattern for the level of thought that has been put into all the details. Outstanding. I don’t think there is anything to dislike, although one thing to be aware of is that there are no lengthen/ shorten lines on the body of the jacket, and all sizes use the same zipper length. If you are petite and want to make this jacket you may have to consider this before making it up. Also, I found it extremely difficult to fit the size M cuff over the free arm of my sewing machine. Note that I think the seam allowances to sew the cuffs are 0.5 inches, although I don’t think the instructions state that.

Fabric Used:

A shower proof nylon/cotton blend.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I graded the hood size down to size S.
  • I did a 5/8ths sway back adjustment, adding the removed length back to the hem.
  • I raised the position of the waist casing up by 1 inch.
  • I shortened the sleeves by 3.5 inches.
  • I graded the sleeve opening and the cuffs down to a size M.
  • I omitted the breast pockets.
  • I flat fell seamed all the seams to keep the interior neat.
  • I reversed the opening of the jacket so my button holes are on the right hand side, which is the opposite way to the instructions. Two reasons for this: 1. my zipper opened this way, so I didn’t have a choice. 2. Traditionally women’s garments button up that way so I prefer it.
  • I positioned my placket 0.25 inches away from the edge stitching and used 0.25 inches seam allowance to sew.
  • At step 24 I used 0.5 inch seam allowance to allow me to flat fell seam that seam easily.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I don’t know if I need another one of these in my wardrobe right now, but never say never. I definitely recommend, but maybe to more adventurous beginners/ intermediates. There is a sew along for this jacket on YouTube if you need more hand holding.

Conclusion:

Absolutely outstanding attention to detail and immaculate pattern drafting on this one. Well done Mimi and Simplicity.

See you all soon!

Simplicity 9052 Mimi G Style pattern: showerproof unisex utility jacket with fishtail style hem

Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

16 thoughts on “Simplicity 9052: DIY showerproof utility jacket with fishtail hem and detachable hood

  1. What a terrific showerproof coat and a great pattern. Definitely one to be added to the ever lengthening list.

  2. That looks fantastic! and what a lot of detail, they are perfect. I give you credit for making this jacket – definitely the type of thing I will buy and never make.

  3. Fabulous! your sewing always results in a professional looking garment, congratulations, this one is a real winner!

  4. What a great waterproof coat.I really like the finish on the zip and waist tie with the ribbon, not a technique I’ve seen before, but definitely gives a fantastic finish. Hope you enjoy wearing it!

  5. Easier way to flatfell a seam: Offset the layers by 1/4″, shorter layer on top. Sew on the 5/8″ seam allowance, measuring from the (wider) lower layer. Fold the wider layer over the narrow layer, with fabric edge along the stitches. (Fingerpress, if you feel the need — or fingerpress as you go along on the next step.) Fold the whole seam over, and topstitch along the first fold as per usual when flatfelling.Ta da!

    No need to trim fabric from the top layer of the seam. Finishes at the same seam allowance as if you’d done the whole stitch seam-then trim-then fold and fold-and stitch again. Keeps handling of the fabric — and thus any fraying — to a minimum.

    Not original to me … learned it from a “Threads” magazine about Angelheart clothing … in a late 80s-early 90s issue, I dimly remember.

  6. Your rain coat looks great..if I ever get to visit my daughter in London again I will make one beforehand. I couldnt find one to fit last time I was there. i am in Australia

  7. Fantastic coat. It looks so comfy. I really hope you didn’t need it though. We’ve had some good weather up here in the North East, but there have been a few heavy showers. We got caught out at Alnmouth last week while walking the dog and ended up rather soggy. Hope you enjoyed your holiday.

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