Hi Everyone,

I have been sewing and making in general throughout lockdown. I have noticed that, as mentioned in my previous post, I have been trying to sew practical, more casual clothes rather than churning out dresses that might not get worn any time soon. So, over the next few days I hope to clear the backlog (in terms of blogging) of clothes I have been making. All the clothes I am going to share have been made using fabrics from my stash which is nice, and feature several patterns that I have made before. Today’s post is a mixture of a new-to-me pattern, and a TNT.

Kwik Sew 3586

I have wanted an oversized shirt in forever. I finally got round to using Kwik Sew 3586 and some white cotton poplin from Fabworks. I absolutely love the end result, although I did change some features of the pattern to suit me.

I would ordinarily have cut a 1X size, but to achieve this look I sized up by 2 sizes, and cut a straight size 3X. There is around 4 inches of positive ease in the pattern as designed. It is a plus sized pattern. I love the finished look and have actually already got a second version cut out in a navy silk blend. This shirt has already been worn lots and I love how it feels on my body. Interestingly, the pattern calls for 0.25 inches seam allowance, which I thought would be hellish, but I might be a convert! It was easy to sew and cut down on trimming/ grading. I did use 5/8ths inch seam allowance for the sleeves though, in order to flat fell seam them. Full details below!

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Women’s shirts have French darts, double yoke, pointed collar with collar stand, shirttail hemline, front button closure, and optional bust pocket. A: Long sleeves with cuffs. B: Short sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:

1X – 4X

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes (I think mine looks better, lol).

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, but I deviated to elevate the finish of my shirt.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I liked the 0.25 inch seam allowance (didn’t think I would, but I did). I like the overall fit and it was a well drafted pattern. I did make changes to elevate the finish of my shirt. I didn’t like the instruction to finish the hem.

Fabric Used:

Cotton poplin.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

• I ordinarily would have cut a size 1X for this pattern, but I sized up two sizes to a 3X to get the oversized look.
• I moved the bust dart UP by 1.5 inches.
• I shortened the length of the body of the shirt by 2 inches.
• I shortened the sleeve length by 2 inches.
• There is a separate pattern piece for the under collar, which is nice, but I added a centre back seam to it and cut it on the bias.
• I added a 1 inch centre back pleat.
• I used 0.25 inches seam allowance as the instructions directed, but used 5/8ths inch seam allowance to insert the sleeves and sew up the side seams as I did flat felled seams in those areas.
• I added a tower placket rather than the continuous lapped placket as suggested.
• I didn’t like the instructions to finish the hem and just did a narrow 5/8ths inch hem.
• For next time I have altered the pattern to raise the armhole up by 1 inch. This shirt is completely wearable but I am hoping that alteration will improve my range of movement whilst wearing the shirt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, a second one has already been cut. I need to finish sewing it up. I do recommend if you fall into the size range for this pattern.

Conclusion:

There is a lot to be said for wardrobe basics. Love this shirt!

Simplicity 1167

The trousers are a TNT pattern for me (well, I thought!): Simplicity 1167, which I have made several times before – search this blog to see previous versions.

For this version I lowered and extended the back crotch out by 0.5 inches. I actually should have done a 5/8ths inch full bum adjustment on this version (and have altered the pattern for next time), but fudged the waistband seam allowances to get enough rise on this version. I still love them! So comfortable and beats anything I could ever buy. The fabric is a stretch cotton that I have had in my stash for a few years. I did use some satin bias binding I had in my stash to finish the waist band seam allowances. So satisfying to see that finish inside when I am taking them on and off!

See you very soon with more sewing!