kwik sew 3586 and simplicity 1167: diy oversized white shirt and stretch cotton floral trousers

Simplicity 1167 stretch cotton floral trousers worn with Kwik Sew 3586 poplin shirt

Hi Everyone,

I have been sewing and making in general throughout lockdown. I have noticed that, as mentioned in my previous post, I have been trying to sew practical, more casual clothes rather than churning out dresses that might not get worn any time soon. So, over the next few days I hope to clear the backlog (in terms of blogging) of clothes I have been making. All the clothes I am going to share have been made using fabrics from my stash which is nice, and feature several patterns that I have made before. Today’s post is a mixture of a new-to-me pattern, and a TNT.

Simplicity 1167 stretch cotton floral trousers worn with Kwik Sew 3586 poplin shirt

Kwik Sew 3586

I have wanted an oversized shirt in forever. I finally got round to using Kwik Sew 3586 and some white cotton poplin from Fabworks. I absolutely love the end result, although I did change some features of the pattern to suit me.

Simplicity 1167 stretch cotton floral trousers worn with Kwik Sew 3586 poplin shirt

I would ordinarily have cut a 1X size, but to achieve this look I sized up by 2 sizes, and cut a straight size 3X. There is around 4 inches of positive ease in the pattern as designed. It is a plus sized pattern. I love the finished look and have actually already got a second version cut out in a navy silk blend. This shirt has already been worn lots and I love how it feels on my body. Interestingly, the pattern calls for 0.25 inches seam allowance, which I thought would be hellish, but I might be a convert! It was easy to sew and cut down on trimming/ grading. I did use 5/8ths inch seam allowance for the sleeves though, in order to flat fell seam them. Full details below!

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Women’s shirts have French darts, double yoke, pointed collar with collar stand, shirttail hemline, front button closure, and optional bust pocket. A: Long sleeves with cuffs. B: Short sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:

1X – 4X

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes (I think mine looks better, lol).

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, but I deviated to elevate the finish of my shirt.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I liked the 0.25 inch seam allowance (didn’t think I would, but I did). I like the overall fit and it was a well drafted pattern. I did make changes to elevate the finish of my shirt. I didn’t like the instruction to finish the hem.

Fabric Used:

Cotton poplin.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I ordinarily would have cut a size 1X for this pattern, but I sized up two sizes to a 3X to get the oversized look.
  • I moved the bust dart UP by 1.5 inches.
  • I shortened the length of the body of the shirt by 2 inches.
  • I shortened the sleeve length by 2 inches.
  • There is a separate pattern piece for the under collar, which is nice, but I added a centre back seam to it and cut it on the bias.
  • I added a 1 inch centre back pleat.
  • I used 0.25 inches seam allowance as the instructions directed, but used 5/8ths inch seam allowance to insert the sleeves and sew up the side seams as I did flat felled seams in those areas.
  • I added a tower placket rather than the continuous lapped placket as suggested.
  • I didn’t like the instructions to finish the hem and just did a narrow 5/8ths inch hem.
  • For next time I have altered the pattern to raise the armhole up by 1 inch. This shirt is completely wearable but I am hoping that alteration will improve my range of movement whilst wearing the shirt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, a second one has already been cut. I need to finish sewing it up. I do recommend if you fall into the size range for this pattern.

Conclusion:

There is a lot to be said for wardrobe basics. Love this shirt!

Simplicity 1167 stretch cotton floral trousers worn with Kwik Sew 3586 poplin shirt

Simplicity 1167

The trousers are a TNT pattern for me (well, I thought!): Simplicity 1167, which I have made several times before – search this blog to see previous versions.

For this version I lowered and extended the back crotch out by 0.5 inches. I actually should have done a 5/8ths inch full bum adjustment on this version (and have altered the pattern for next time), but fudged the waistband seam allowances to get enough rise on this version. I still love them! So comfortable and beats anything I could ever buy. The fabric is a stretch cotton that I have had in my stash for a few years. I did use some satin bias binding I had in my stash to finish the waist band seam allowances. So satisfying to see that finish inside when I am taking them on and off!

Simplicity 1167 stretch cotton floral trousers worn with Kwik Sew 3586 poplin shirt
Simplicity 1167 bias binding finish of waistband.

See you very soon with more sewing!

Simplicity 1167 stretch cotton floral trousers worn with Kwik Sew 3586 poplin shirt

Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

25 thoughts on “kwik sew 3586 and simplicity 1167: diy oversized white shirt and stretch cotton floral trousers

  1. That’s a very sharp looking outfit! Especially like the Cobalt blue fabric you used for the pants. Great job.

  2. love the pants, you make so many fantastic pairs of pants. and I admire the white shirt – which I would immediately spill something on so I don’t wear white shirts 🙂

  3. I have been following you for a few months, and really like your posts. I like your style, and we have similar figures, so it is encouraging to see how nicely your sewn garments look on you. Can you please point me to a tutorial for the “full bum adjustment” you mention in this post?

  4. I love your “big shirt”! This pattern is a TNT for me. So far I’ve made two short sleeve camp shirts from this pattern for summer. I have several long sleeve versions I love wearing. I just can’t do 1/4” seams! You’re a brave woman. When I copied the pattern, I went to 3/8” seams. I’ve raised the underarm as well. I’ve found that I have to do this for all Kwik Sew plus size patterns! Thank you for your great posts!

  5. I really like the floral pants. Something I can’t seem to find the correct print or weight of fabric but you always do. Thanks for continuing to share your beautiful creations. You are an inspiration.

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