I have been sewing and making in general throughout lockdown. I have noticed that, as mentioned in my previous post, I have been trying to sew practical, more casual clothes rather than churning out dresses that might not get worn any time soon. So, over the next few days I hope to clear the backlog (in terms of blogging) of clothes I have been making. All the clothes I am going to share have been made using fabrics from my stash which is nice, and feature several patterns that I have made before. Today’s post is a mixture of a new-to-me pattern, and a TNT.
Kwik Sew 3586
I have wanted an oversized shirt in forever. I finally got round to using Kwik Sew 3586 and some white cotton poplin from Fabworks. I absolutely love the end result, although I did change some features of the pattern to suit me.
I would ordinarily have cut a 1X size, but to achieve this look I sized up by 2 sizes, and cut a straight size 3X. There is around 4 inches of positive ease in the pattern as designed. It is a plus sized pattern. I love the finished look and have actually already got a second version cut out in a navy silk blend. This shirt has already been worn lots and I love how it feels on my body. Interestingly, the pattern calls for 0.25 inches seam allowance, which I thought would be hellish, but I might be a convert! It was easy to sew and cut down on trimming/ grading. I did use 5/8ths inch seam allowance for the sleeves though, in order to flat fell seam them. Full details below!
Women’s shirts have French darts, double yoke, pointed collar with collar stand, shirttail hemline, front button closure, and optional bust pocket. A: Long sleeves with cuffs. B: Short sleeves.
1X – 4X
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes (I think mine looks better, lol).
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, but I deviated to elevate the finish of my shirt.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the 0.25 inch seam allowance (didn’t think I would, but I did). I like the overall fit and it was a well drafted pattern. I did make changes to elevate the finish of my shirt. I didn’t like the instruction to finish the hem.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I ordinarily would have cut a size 1X for this pattern, but I sized up two sizes to a 3X to get the oversized look.
- I moved the bust dart UP by 1.5 inches.
- I shortened the length of the body of the shirt by 2 inches.
- I shortened the sleeve length by 2 inches.
- There is a separate pattern piece for the under collar, which is nice, but I added a centre back seam to it and cut it on the bias.
- I added a 1 inch centre back pleat.
- I used 0.25 inches seam allowance as the instructions directed, but used 5/8ths inch seam allowance to insert the sleeves and sew up the side seams as I did flat felled seams in those areas.
- I added a tower placket rather than the continuous lapped placket as suggested.
- I didn’t like the instructions to finish the hem and just did a narrow 5/8ths inch hem.
- For next time I have altered the pattern to raise the armhole up by 1 inch. This shirt is completely wearable but I am hoping that alteration will improve my range of movement whilst wearing the shirt.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, a second one has already been cut. I need to finish sewing it up. I do recommend if you fall into the size range for this pattern.
There is a lot to be said for wardrobe basics. Love this shirt!
The trousers are a TNT pattern for me (well, I thought!): Simplicity 1167, which I have made several times before – search this blog to see previous versions.
For this version I lowered and extended the back crotch out by 0.5 inches. I actually should have done a 5/8ths inch full bum adjustment on this version (and have altered the pattern for next time), but fudged the waistband seam allowances to get enough rise on this version. I still love them! So comfortable and beats anything I could ever buy. The fabric is a stretch cotton that I have had in my stash for a few years. I did use some satin bias binding I had in my stash to finish the waist band seam allowances. So satisfying to see that finish inside when I am taking them on and off!
See you very soon with more sewing!