McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls: DIY Mustard Floral Print Puff Sleeve Wrap Dress

McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls puff sleeve wrap dress in mustard floral polyester print

Hello Everyone,

I am guessing that for the majority of us right now, this Easter will be one of the oddest we have ever spent. If Easter has any religious significance for you, then you probably won’t be attending church in the usual manner, and even if it does not, then chances are you won’t be spending the day with your extended family, enjoying a meal together, doing an Easter egg hunt or going for a walk. This is how Covid-19 has disrupted our lives. Anyway, this is a dress that I might have worn for Easter Sunday to go for lunch. Instead, it probably won’t be worn now until after lockdown is over.

McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls puff sleeve wrap dress in mustard floral polyester print

This is McCalls 8036 (or, as McCalls have now started to name their patterns, the Sasha McCalls dress). It is a true wrap dress, which is secured inside with a ribbon tie, and has a facing to finish the front edges. I made view C with the asymmetrically placed buttons.

McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls puff sleeve wrap dress in mustard floral polyester print

The fabric is a mustard coloured polyester with a floral print. I bought the fabric local to me. Truthfully, I am not sure how flattering this colour is for my skin, but I think with the red lipstick I can just about pull it off.

McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls puff sleeve wrap dress in mustard floral polyester print

The dress came together quite easily, once I had done my fairly standard alterations. There are a couple of things I would alter if I was making this again though. The shoulder pleats are not sitting flat as I would like them too. I think this is because the shoulder seam is sloping backwards. This could be to do with how I did my FBA and rotated the bust dart to be incorporated with the shoulder pleat? But I have seen a similar issue on some – not all – other makers of this pattern.

McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls puff sleeve wrap dress in mustard floral polyester print

Secondly, I think I would do a small shoulder adjustment – not much – but I think it does need it. But neither of these observations will stop me from wearing this dress – when I get the chance! This particular style of dress is very reminiscent of the Robe Gabin by Rouje Paris.

McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls puff sleeve wrap dress in mustard floral polyester print

McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls puff sleeve wrap dress in mustard floral polyester print

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Wrap front dress, self-tie, sash or button front. Short and ¾ full sleeves, A: double ruffle hemline.

I made view C.

Pattern Sizing:

6 – 22

I cut a size 18 through the bust/ shoulders and arms, and graded out over the waist and hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

It’s actually a very simple pattern that comes together easily and the puff sleeves are very on trend. It’s very reminiscent of the Robe Gabin by French company Rouje Paris. The fit is good (with some alterations for me – see below), but I don’t think the fit at the shoulders is perfect. Nothing to dislike. With a couple of tweaks I think this could be a fantastic pattern for me.

Fabric Used:

A printed polyester with a lot of drape.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I cut the view B skirt and added 1.25 inches to the length. In the end I only ended up taking a 5/8ths inch hem because I wanted to preserve length, and because it’s easier to sew a narrow curved hem, rather than easing fabric in.
  • I did a 1 inch full bust adjustment, and rotated the bust dart to the shoulder pleat. I don’t know if that has thrown the shoulder seam off slightly, but my shoulder seam seems to be slanting back which is making the outer part of the shoulder pleat not sit flat. Next time round I would move the seam forward and I also think I need a small shoulder adjustment.
  • I carried the extra one inch width through the bodice through the front of the skirt too. I also had to add about 0.75 inches extra width to the bodice at the front edge to get everything to match up.
  • The puff sleeve is lovely and plenty big, but check the width of the bias band at the bottom for your arm. I added 1.25 inches extra to my band because I hate tight things on my arms. I machined my band into place.
  • I shortened the sleeve by 2 inches.
  • I did a 5/8ths inch full bum adjustment and added in back waist darts.
  • Note: this dress used just over 2 metres of fabric which is not bad for a dress like this for me. Normally wrap dresses eat a lot of fabric but the bodice and the skirt are cut on the straight of grain.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I might sew it again. Yes, I recommend.

Conclusion:
Très jolie petite robe avec d’adorables manches bouffantes. 🙂 Does this make me as cool as those beautiful French women?

However you are spending this time, it is important that we all maintain social distancing. Stay safe and well.

Until soon.

McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls puff sleeve wrap dress in mustard floral polyester print

Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

23 thoughts on “McCalls 8036 #SashaMcCalls: DIY Mustard Floral Print Puff Sleeve Wrap Dress

  1. This turned out so cute. And very chic. I had the pattern in my cart at joanns and it wasn’t on sale. So I put it back. Now I’m even sorrier!

  2. I really like it on you. If you don’t mind a suggestion I think it would look smashing about two inches longer. Don’t worry about the shoulder thing, it looks fine. I think dresses look more flattering on the longer side, just a quirk of mine, gives more of a vertical look, but not too long looks dowdy. Hard to find that perfect spot. Happy sewing and you’ve done a great job and I really enjoy your blog.

  3. I think it looks nice and you can wear that colour with bright lipstick for sure. As for the shoulder pleat, if it were me, I would make the pleat as two folds that fold towards the shoulder point. I think that would make the fabric fall better over the bodice.

    1. Also a question for you. I am about the same height as you and have a full bust as well. I find that I can get the front length correct for shoulder to waist but often get the back incorrect. It is too long. Do you have to shorten your bodice back or do you find the pattern fits fine there? Your dress waistline hits you at the right spot in both front and back. Now if only I could get mine to do that.

  4. This dress looks so lovely on you. I love the colour and I think you look great in all the colours.
    I love seeing what you make and admire your ability to adjust and fit your patterns. Fitting is my nemesis so I tend to stick with my TNT patterns. Thanks for continuing to blog your makes🙂

  5. I think the colour suits you very well indeed, and I like the look with the white shoes. I think it’s easy to decide a certain colour doesn’t suit you and never try it again. I’ve also found that as I get older different colours suit me so I’ve come back to some colours that I’d written off in the past as not for me.

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