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Butterick 6385: DIY Military Inspired Funnel Neck Heavy Wool Coat

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Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat

Hi Everyone,

I am very excited to share my latest coat project with you today. You know I love making coats and jackets. It’s been a little while since I made a heavy duty winter coat. When I say heavy duty, I consider both of my previously interlined coats as heavy duty. See here and here. But with this wool, purchased local to me a couple of years ago, it is probably the heaviest wool I have ever worked with, and no interlining was required. This coat is seriously heavy and warm!

Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat

The pattern I used to make this coat was Butterick 6385 and it is a brilliant coat pattern, IMO. If you haven’t got this pattern in your stash, get it, before it goes OOP! Why? Sized for different cup sizes (I didn’t do an FBA on this!), princess seams for easy fitting alterations, two piece sleeve and fully lined with a separate lining piece for the back with a pleat. Also, I am loving that high funnel neck to keep the cold at bay, without needing to fuss with a scarf.

Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat
Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat
Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat

With a wool this heavy I decided to pull out the big guns and use horse hair canvas to interface. I interfaced the front, the side front (extending into the arm hole area), the collar, the yoke (again, extending into the arm hole area), the tops of the upper and under sleeve (extending to the edges) and I also cut bias strips for the hems. All the canvas interfacing was catch stitched to the wool so the stitching was not visible from the front. I also used fusible stretch interfacing on the pocket welts and included a back stay cut from a cotton remnant and a chest piece cut from the canvas. The bits of red fleece you can see peeking out at the tops of the sleeves are the sleeve heads.

Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat – inner interfacing
Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat – back stay

The interfacing at the tops of the upper and under sleeves was cut on the bias and the bottom edges allowed to hang free.

Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat – sleeve cap interfacing

I added a red piping made from scraps of satin left from my birthday dress between the lining and the wool and love the contrast. BTW, I would say that if you choose to make this coat from a wool, you should note that the back inner yoke is cut from self fabric. Combined with the high funnel neck (if you make this view), this might make this coat unsuitable for some people…or make it in not wool if you have problems wearing wool. I think this coat could work in so many different fabrics.

Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat – front facing, lining and piping
Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat – back lining with pleat, self yoke and piping
Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat

Overall, and in case you couldn’t tell, I am just so happy with how this one turned out. It was my project over my Christmas break and it was lovely to have an epic project to sink my teeth into. The one thing I could perhaps have done better was perhaps tackling bound buttonholes. But in the end my new Pfaff performed the buttonholes with absolutely no issues. Maybe next time, eh?

Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat
Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Fitted coats have princess seams, back yoke with forward shoulder seams, two-piece sleeve, collar and pocket variations. A: Round collar. B: Pointed collar. C: Funnel neck.

Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D.

I made view C.

Pattern Sizing:

Size 6 – 22.

I cut a size 18 through the shoulders, arms and bust, D cup (no FBA required) and graded out over the waist and hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, although I added lots of extra tailoring touches.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the look of the finished garment. Love the high neck for extra wind protection, the princess seams for easy fitting, the multi-cup sizing, the two piece sleeves and the separate back lining piece with pleat. Nothing to dislike, but note there are no shoulder seams on this pattern so if that area is a fitting issue then be forewarned.

Fabric Used:

A very, very heavy wool coating.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I don’t know if I will sew it again, but never say never. I could see this pattern working in other fabrics, so maybe. I definitely recommend. This is a brilliant pattern.

Conclusion:

Sleek, stylish and sophisticated. This is a gem of a pattern. You need this pattern in your stash right now.

Butterick 6385 funnel neck heavy wool coat
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