Hi Everyone,
I am very excited to share my latest coat project with you today. You know I love making coats and jackets. It’s been a little while since I made a heavy duty winter coat. When I say heavy duty, I consider both of my previously interlined coats as heavy duty. See here and here. But with this wool, purchased local to me a couple of years ago, it is probably the heaviest wool I have ever worked with, and no interlining was required. This coat is seriously heavy and warm!
The pattern I used to make this coat was Butterick 6385 and it is a brilliant coat pattern, IMO. If you haven’t got this pattern in your stash, get it, before it goes OOP! Why? Sized for different cup sizes (I didn’t do an FBA on this!), princess seams for easy fitting alterations, two piece sleeve and fully lined with a separate lining piece for the back with a pleat. Also, I am loving that high funnel neck to keep the cold at bay, without needing to fuss with a scarf.
With a wool this heavy I decided to pull out the big guns and use horse hair canvas to interface. I interfaced the front, the side front (extending into the arm hole area), the collar, the yoke (again, extending into the arm hole area), the tops of the upper and under sleeve (extending to the edges) and I also cut bias strips for the hems. All the canvas interfacing was catch stitched to the wool so the stitching was not visible from the front. I also used fusible stretch interfacing on the pocket welts and included a back stay cut from a cotton remnant and a chest piece cut from the canvas. The bits of red fleece you can see peeking out at the tops of the sleeves are the sleeve heads.
The interfacing at the tops of the upper and under sleeves was cut on the bias and the bottom edges allowed to hang free.
I added a red piping made from scraps of satin left from my birthday dress between the lining and the wool and love the contrast. BTW, I would say that if you choose to make this coat from a wool, you should note that the back inner yoke is cut from self fabric. Combined with the high funnel neck (if you make this view), this might make this coat unsuitable for some people…or make it in not wool if you have problems wearing wool. I think this coat could work in so many different fabrics.
Overall, and in case you couldn’t tell, I am just so happy with how this one turned out. It was my project over my Christmas break and it was lovely to have an epic project to sink my teeth into. The one thing I could perhaps have done better was perhaps tackling bound buttonholes. But in the end my new Pfaff performed the buttonholes with absolutely no issues. Maybe next time, eh?
Pattern Review
Pattern Description:
Fitted coats have princess seams, back yoke with forward shoulder seams, two-piece sleeve, collar and pocket variations. A: Round collar. B: Pointed collar. C: Funnel neck.
Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D.
I made view C.
Pattern Sizing:
Size 6 – 22.
I cut a size 18 through the shoulders, arms and bust, D cup (no FBA required) and graded out over the waist and hips.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, although I added lots of extra tailoring touches.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the look of the finished garment. Love the high neck for extra wind protection, the princess seams for easy fitting, the multi-cup sizing, the two piece sleeves and the separate back lining piece with pleat. Nothing to dislike, but note there are no shoulder seams on this pattern so if that area is a fitting issue then be forewarned.
Fabric Used:
A very, very heavy wool coating.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- Added 1.5 inches to the length of the coat
- Added a 5/8ths inch wedge across the back and side back, tapering to nothing at the side seams by way of a full bum adjustment. Also added 3/8ths inch to the side back/ back vertical seams and 0.25 inches to the side seams and side back seams for 65 cm up from the hem.
- Shortened the sleeve by 1.5 inches
- Did a 1 inch full arm adjustment
- Made the side seams and sleeve seams up to 1 inch and did actually only use 5/8ths inch seam allowance. I just decided I might be glad of the extra layering room.
- Shortened the height of the collar by 0.25 inches
- Added horse hair canvas interfacing
- Bagged the lining out through the coat hem
- Doubled up on my regular Gutterman polyester thread for the topstitching
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t know if I will sew it again, but never say never. I could see this pattern working in other fabrics, so maybe. I definitely recommend. This is a brilliant pattern.
Conclusion:
Sleek, stylish and sophisticated. This is a gem of a pattern. You need this pattern in your stash right now.
I think this is amazing 😃. It is a great fit and the style looks really good for you. I have bought some wool to make a Grainline Yates Coat but I’m scared to start 😂. I think I shall read through your coat making blogs to gain some of your expertise 🤩
Thanks Sue. Once you have made your first one things will be so much less intimidating. Hope you go for it!
Absolutely gorgeous. I think I want that pattern, and thanks for the tip about the neck facing – duly noted as wool irritates my skin so much!
Thanks Hayley.
Wow
Thanks Aileen 🙂
Wonderful details, Manju, and a great make. May you wear it for many happy years❣️
Thanks Del! I hope so.
Thank you for the great review! I have this pattern and some gorgeous navy cashmere, but I haven’t gotten the courage to start cutting yet. This really encourages me.
Thanks Lisa T. It’s a great pattern to make in beautiful coating.
Such a great project – You look fabulous in your coat. Brava!
Thanks Leanna.
Gorgeous coat! I love the color. Great job with this pattern. You achieved a great fit.
Thanks Danvillegirl.
What a beautiful coat it looks amazing on you. Thankyou for the pictures of the inside. They are so useful. It certainly is a beautiful coat and your sewing is awesome. I find your posts so inspiring and if I can ever attain your high level skills I will be one happy bunny!
Thank you so much Angela
Simply beautiful! I love all the structure inside too. Well done!
Thanks Lynn
I love this coat! I think you made an excellent choice matching the wool to the pattern. It’s also great that the color is fairly neutral. You’ll get a ton of wear out of that. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Natasha.
It’s absolutely beautiful! I love Lisette for Butterick patterns. Every single one I’ve sewn has been well drafted and the construction method is great.
This fits you so well and looks so high-end!!! Great job!
Thanks Kisha. Yep, agree, I have had great success with Lisette patterns too.
So good-looking. Happy to see the review!
Thank you!
You’re right, this pattern is just fabulous! I like your choice of colour, too.
Thanks Siobhan.
You are so inspiring!! I’ve had a beautiful rose wool sitting in my stash for years. Well, I’ve ordered the pattern and plan to get to work on a new coat for my daughter!!
Thanks Monica. Hope it goes well.
Love the red sleeve heads!!! Such a classic pattern and your tailoring has been inspiring!
Thank you Mrs Mole! Coming from you that is an honour.
Great coat! This will be one of those you’ll have for ages, classic. I’ve got a pile of coats to make, and have finally made the time to get on with them!
Thanks Anne. I know your will be beautiful.
Beautiful coat, and with the tailoring you have done, one that will last you for years.
I’ve had this pattern in my stash for a long time but never made the commitment to sew it. You’ve inspired me!
Thanks Kay!
Oh my goodness, your coat is fabulous!!! And thank you for the photos of the innards, love seeing those. Happy wearing!!
Thank you Lynne.
Beautiful! I am about to start this project fduring my vacation as well, and your completed coat is an inspiration! How did you decide where to add the hair interfacing? I was contemplating using a high quality fusible weft for all of the wool, then adding hair interfacing to the yoke and fronts. Hadn’t thought of adding hair interfacing to the sleeves and hem. Is adding the weft to all of the yardage too much? Another hack I am planning is an exposed zipper. What do you think? The pattern calls for shoulder pads, but I see you used sleeve caps instead. Can you send me a reference for using sleeve caps? Thanks!
Hi, if you haven’t already got this jacket tailoring book then I would highly recommend it to guide you through learning where to apply interfacing and sleeve heads:
Note that I did add shoulder pads. Also you should decide on what interfacing to use depending on your own fabric. My heavy weight fabric worked with the canvas but on a lighter weight wool I might have used a fusible weft. If you interface all the pieces I probably wouldn’t then add any more hair interfacing. Hope that helps.
Thank you! I appreciate the clarification regarding what to use for the type of fabric. I will check out the book.. My wool is defintely coat weight, but it is quite soft and drapey, so I think it may need the interfacing throughout. I have been using a RTW coat I own as a comparison, and that fabric is definitely “stiffened” in some way. I haven’t tore into the lining to check (although I’m tempted!). I live in a cold climate, so I am also considering interlining….another thing to dither about!