Happy new year! This was the last project that I started and completed in 2019. It’s Vogue 9285 which was made in a beautiful cupro silk blend gifted to me from Selvedge and Bolts. In case you didn’t know, Selvedge and Bolts is a new online fabric store started in 2019 by Dibs of Dibs and The Machine blog fame. Dibs is known for her fine taste in colourful fabrics, and now she travels the world, sourcing beautiful quality fabrics which are available to buy on the Selvedge and Bolts website. If you want designer fabrics at reasonable prices go check the website out! This cupro silk blend is beautifully lightweight, but strong and easy to sew and press. I was gifted this fabric, but all opinions are my own.
Let’s talk about this pattern. I have had this pattern on my mind for a while. I think it’s a very classic design, with it’s high neck and sleeve variations. I am going to be honest and say that I think, for me, the fit is slightly off through the arms. Not to the point of making this unwearable, but for my next version I think it needs further alteration.
Now, I have done many, many full bicep adjustments over the years. It’s a fairly typical adjustment for me. My full bicep adjustment has never needed to be more than 1 inch. And that’s the case here; I did a 1 inch full bicep adjustment. However, something that has never occurred to me, is that I needed to raise the height of the sleeve cap in doing so. The reason for doing this is explained this post from Cashmerette. As I have never made larger than a 1 inch adjustment, I have never done that. But in this instance, I think the sleeve would benefit from extra height in the sleeve cap area.
This is still a great blouse that can be dressed up or down, but it needed some work to make it fit me, and needs further work to really make it a TNT pattern.
Loose fitting top has back hook and eye closure and sleeve variations.
6 – 22
I made view C.
I cut a size 18 and graded out over the waist and hips.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Kind of. My sleeves are not so voluminous, and I changed my cuffs to be shirred rather than buttoned.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Meh. Yes, but they tried to make this pattern as easy as possible, hence some finishes that I didn’t particularly like, like just turning and stitching the sleeve slit openings and using hooks and eyes to close (I made rouleau loops and added buttons).
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the overall style and the high neck. I had to make a few alterations to the pattern to make it work though and the fit through the sleeves is not perfect.
Cupro silk blend
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- 1 inch FBA, closed bust dart and rotated fullness to neck
- Shortened sleeves by 2 inches. If I was making again in the same way I may add an inch back
- Added 5/8ths inch to the length of the top
- 1 inch full arm adjustment. I didn’t add any extra height to the sleeve cap, but I think for next time I might add 0.5 inch and consider deepening the arm hole if necessary to compensate
- I have also added 0.25 inches to the front and back of the sleeves for next time
- I replaced the buttoned cuffs with shirred ones. I cut 2 pieces measuring approximately 20 inches by 9 inches, doubled them over and shirred them, starting 1 inch away from the folded edge
- Overall I found the fit of this blouse to be quite small and I ended up using just 0.25 inches for the centre back and side seams
- I made rouleau loops and added buttons as a closure to the neck band
- I might consider making a 0.5 inch wide shoulder adjustment for next time, but I don’t know if the other sleeve adjustments will make that redundant
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would like to try this again, yes. I recommend if this is your style and you accept the fact you might have to make some alterations to the pattern.
It’s a classic blouse with lots of potential and easy to dress up and down.
My thoughts are especially with all my Australian followers at this time…hoping you come through this devastation and rebuild your lives and communities.
See you soon!