Vogue 1638: DIY Satin Skirt with Flounce and Asymmetric Hem

Vogue 1638 satin skirt with flounce and asymmetric hem

Hey Everyone!

When the fall Vogue patterns were released a few months back I instantaneously thought “wow, what a great collection!” So much so that I ended up ordering this skirt pattern, V1638, together with V1649 and V1650, to be shipped to me from the States. At the time I had been seeing lots of satin skirts around, but as I don’t find it that easy to wear bias cut anything on my lower half in particular, I thought I would try the skirt out in a viscose satin. Right from the start I am going to say that not only did this particular pattern work my last nerve in terms of pattern adjustments, but I am not sure I love the finished garment in the satin. It creases very easily. I wonder if making it again in a crepe or suiting of some kind might give me a skirt I love? Don’t get me wrong, it’s not a total write off, but I just don’t currently love, love it.

Vogue 1638 satin skirt with flounce and asymmetric hem

The requirement for me to adjust every aspect of the pattern arose from two points:

  1. My hip measurement at the time fell slightly outside of the patterns hip finished measurement, resulting in me essentially having to make the pattern bigger to fit my measurements (not the patterns fault!)
  2. I feel like the pattern is drafted for someone tall (not me!) with a long waist (also not me), so some adjustments (covered in detail below) arose as a result of me trying to make the proportions of the skirt suit my body.
Vogue 1638 satin skirt with flounce and asymmetric hem

On the whole I think the adjustments were successful, and I have a good starting point to go from should I decide to try this pattern again. But because of that flounce which is inserted in to the one side of the skirt, making adjustments is not for the feint of heart!

Vogue 1638 satin skirt with flounce and asymmetric hem
Vogue 1638 satin skirt with flounce and asymmetric hem

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Fitted skirt has back zipper, front and back darts, flounce and narrow hem. A: contrast flounce.

Pattern Sizing:

Size 6 – 22. I cut a size 20 at the waist, and graded to a 22 at the hips. FYI there is approximately 2.5 inches of ease at the hips for this skirt, so it is designed to be fairly close fitting, and maybe that’s what I am not so comfortable with?

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes, but mine is not high waisted and probably not as fitted.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. It is actually a very simple skirt to sew (you need to baste that flounce though to get the corners neat!) but if you have to make any adjustments that is what will take time.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I think it is a very clever pattern. It’s not that I dislike the pattern. But I don’t like my fabric choice (viscose satin) which creases easily. I think a crepe or suiting would work much better.

Fabric Used:

Viscose satin.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Lots!

  • I removed all the height above the waist line marked on the pattern (except for I left a 5/8ths inch seam allowance there).
  • I moved the stitching line for the flounce down by 3 inches. I think if I hadn’t have done that the flounce would have hit me at an unflattering point on my body.
  • As a result of the above adjustment, I shortened the flounce in the front and the back from the bottom edge by 3 inches.
  • To keep the width at the bottom of the hem, I drew an arbitrary line 9 inches up and moved the hems on the front and left back up by 6 inches (3 inches to compensate for moving the stitching line down by 3 inches, and 3 inches to actually shorten the skirt).
  • I did a 1.5 inch full bum adjustment on the left back. This resulted in the stitching line being extended by 1.5 inches.
  • I did a 1.5 inch full bum adjustment on the right hand back.
  • As a result of the full bum adjustments, I added 3 inches extra width into the back flounce.
  • I cut the front into two (through the stitching line) and did a 1 inch full tummy adjustment separately on either side. This added 2 inches of extra width through the front (through the stitching line).
  • For extra fit insurance I made the side seams (including on the flounces) up to 1 inch.
  • I finished my skirt waistline by drafting a new facing 2.5 inches deep.
  • I ended up shortening the front drape that hangs down by 20 cm. (I am 5’3″ tall FYI).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Hmmmm. I think I would like to try this again in a crepe or suiting fabric. Maybe it needs to be made a tiny bit tighter. The majority of the adjustments I made arose because of my body measurements, shape and height so bear that in mind if this pattern will work for you. If don’t mind making adjustments or are a tall, slim glamazon then this skirt is for you!

Conclusion:

This skirt has many good features. I think a combination of lots of adjustments and using a fabric that I don’t love made this particular project a bit of a doozy, but I would love to see this on other bodies made in different fabrics.

See you soon!

Vogue 1638 satin skirt with flounce and asymmetric hem

Outfit Details:

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Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

6 thoughts on “Vogue 1638: DIY Satin Skirt with Flounce and Asymmetric Hem

    1. Thanks Diane: I also have a teal green wool suiting from Fabworks ages ago which I am planning on making into a skirt – but not this pattern 🙂 I think it is a good pattern, but needs a crepe or something similar.

  1. Like dreamcutsew I think the shape of these items looks great on you. While The fabrics for the top and jacket are perfection I agree the skirt in satin may have been better in a fabric with less shine and wrinkle resistant. I encourage you to make another one now that you’ve worked out adjustments.

  2. It’s so pretty and you are so brave with that satin. It can be such a monster! I especially love the color.

    I bought like 10 patterns from that release! So good!

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