True Bias Ogden Cami: DIY Floral Cami Sun Dress with Ruffled Hem

True Bias Ogden Cami modified to dress length with ruffled hem.

Hi Everyone!

Has it really been more than 6 weeks since my last blog post? Wow. We’ve been away for almost 3 weeks in India and I was busy prior to going, sewing things for the trip which I will share in due course (you get to see a sneak peak of some stuff in this post). And…well, just sewing! Anyway, today is a very much long overdue post on The Ogden Cami by True Bias Patterns, a stalwart of the Indie pattern sewing scene. Believe it or not, I actually first made this pattern up just over a year ago, but chose not to blog it. Let me explain….

McCalls 7745 modified – viscose polka dot wrap ruffle skirt

So, what you can see above is actually my second version of this cami, that I made in a silk crepe de chine. I initially made my first version up in a scrap of viscose crepe that I had and this silk version followed on (no photographs of first version). Let me be clear from the outset. This is a great pattern. It’s well drafted, I like the fact that it is not cut on the bias, and therefore very economical in terms of fabric, I like the use of facings to finish the neckline and the instructions are very clear. As a layering piece it’s great. BUT….I am currently a G cup and I just don’t like the fit around the armholes in terms of bra exposure. It just…shows too much. This is in spite of me making various alterations (see below). And I know in these photographs you can’t see any bra, but that is because I chose to wear a strapless bra with this dress.

True Bias Ogden Cami modified to dress length with ruffled hem.

Don’t get me wrong. I love this dress. I love the fabric (viscose; purchased from Sew Me Sunshine). But after all the alterations I am left feeling a little frustrated with the fit and I think it’s time to widen the search for the perfect camisole pattern. BTW, over on my Instagram account, I saved a whole story worth of lots of alternative woven camisole ideas that people suggested…well worth skimming through to see if anything appeals to you (you do have to have an Instagram account to view).

True Bias Ogden Cami modified to dress length with ruffled hem.
True Bias Ogden Cami modified to dress length with ruffled hem.

Anyway, going back again, I actually thought that even though I was frustrated with the fit around the armhole, I needed a slip to wear under an Indian kurta top I made to wear in India (post to follow with details). Someone alerted me to an alteration which Clio had shared on her Instagram account (again, saved in her highlights) in which she shared how to raise the armhole on the Ogden cami. I followed her instructions and raised the armhole by 1 inch and thought I had cracked it! You can just make out the slip version under this kurta top below (this version came before the floral dress version). But, I don’t know? Maybe the weight of the ruffle pulling the floral dress version down just made the armhole drop again?

True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to slip length. Worn under memade Indian kurta top.
True Bias Ogden Cami modified to dress length with ruffled hem.

Ogden Cami Initial Alterations

  • I cut a size 18 for the cami but a size 14 for the strap length
  • I did a 5/8ths inch FBA which brought in a bust dart
  • I did a 6/8ths inch sway back adjustment and added the removed length back in at the hem
  • I redrafted the facing to include a bust dart and deepened both the front and back facing by 2.25 inches.
  • Raised front armholes by 0.25 inches.

Ogden Cami Dress with Ruffle Hem Alterations

Working with the above alterations, I further

  • Lengthened the cami by adding 27 cm to the length (that was also for the slip version in white)
  • Raised the front armhole by 1 inch
  • Did a 0.5 inch full bum adjustment (for the dress only; not sure it was entirely necessary though)
  • Added an 8 inch deep ruffle at the hem
  • Pieced together a skinny tie from scraps

Conclusion

Like I say, this is a great pattern. The number of versions that have been made, and continue to be made, is testament to that. But if you have made this pattern and found it didn’t work for you, then don’t beat yourself up about it. Our bodies are all so unique and individual that some patterns just aren’t right for us. I think my next choice might be to try the Jalie Michelle Tank (and dress), but I have already been forewarned that even with that I should expect to do an FBA at the very least. In the mean time, I will continue to make the Ogden cami as a layering piece. And I love my summer dress. I feel happy wearing it. At least the weather has been good enough to get a few wears out of it, so it’s not all bad 🙂

Until soon!

True Bias Ogden Cami modified to dress length with ruffled hem.
Advertisements

Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

11 thoughts on “True Bias Ogden Cami: DIY Floral Cami Sun Dress with Ruffled Hem

  1. It looks SO good on you Manju!!

    And you are right, it’s easy to believe that popular patterns “should” work but we’ve got to go with what works. I think Style Arc released a cami type pattern too recently that I’ve been considering trying.

  2. Manju, this is a beautiful dress. I love it! Have you thought about using narrow elastic under the arms to bring the fabric closer to the body and the bra would not show.

  3. Your dress is fabulous and really suits you. However, as a lady with similar ahem “chest issues” 🙂 , I fully sympathise with not wanting to display your underwear. I’m pondering buying the Ogden Cami pattern and having to do several alterations to make it fit well (and not expose my bra too!). So a suggestion (you’ve probably thought of/tried the first one but just in case…) and a little help/inspiration:
    1. Widen the straps and sew them into the front at a slightly deeper depth. See “Another Ogden Cami” by the lovely Quana at http://madebylaquana.blogspot.com/
    2. Take a look at the video by Andrea of Sew-To-Fit on her YouTube channel on how she drafted her own camisole style top. While you may not want to get into the pattern drafting, it may give you some help/ideas on what to do to more successfully alter a similar pattern to get the fit and coverage that you want. It’s called “Draft a Camisole sewing Pattern…” on her channel at: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCae4p5HxnYmmbtz1bjkD_mA (or search for SewToFit in YouTube). I have no link with her, I’ve just been inspired and helped by her videos to focus on fitting my patterns and while it is hard work, it is beginning to pay off!
    Best of luck with your next makes!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s