It’s not very often that I will purchase and make a new pattern close to it’s release. More often than not I will hang back to see the pattern start to appear in the wild on different body types before jumping in. But once I started seeing versions of this jumpsuit basically looking pretty amazing on everyone that has made it so far, I decided to take the plunge. This is the Paper Theory Patterns Zadie jumpsuit, and I love it!
Let me back up first and tell you about the beautiful linen that was gifted to me to make this pattern up. This is the Portrush Chilli Powder 100% linen from a new-to-me online fabric store, Patterns and Plains. This linen is really beautiful quality; heavy weight with a true, saturated colour which did not fade after washing. It washed, pressed and sewed like a dream with minimal fraying. Really, one of the better quality linens I have come across in this country. Definitely worth checking out the website and great customer service too.
Now, back to the details on the pattern. As ever, a full pattern review appears below. I wanted to point out that the eagle eyed among you may notice that I did not bind the wrap edges to finish them as suggested in the pattern. I had seen a few people complaining of either the bias binding finish not resulting in a clean finish and being rather fiddly, and also some complaining that the binding was flipping out to the outside. I cannot be on with readjusting my clothes once they are on my body! So I chose to draft nice sturdy facings which I topstitched into place.
Really….it has been so many years since I last wore a jumpsuit and I was rather dubious before finishing this garment, but now it is done I feel very chic and comfortable wearing it. BTW, I did add a press stud at the cross over point of the bodice, but honestly, it all feels pretty secure. I did make some modifications to this pattern to make it fit me, but I am so glad I took the time to do them.
The Zadie Jumpsuit is a relaxed and easy to wear one piece that comes with the option of wide 3/4 length sleeves or sleeveless with a dropped shoulder. It wraps around the body and fastens with a tie with so there is no need for buttons or a zip – making it quick and to easy sew, and quick and easy to get on and off. The legs are cut wide and skim above the ankle. There are deep slant pockets on the front, with small pleats at the waist on the front and back. The neck edge is finished with a bias binding.
Sizes 6 – 28
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I would recommend to follow the single layer cutting layout as suggested in the pattern for maximum fabric cutting economy.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I have not worn a jumpsuit for years but I LOVE this one. It feels very comfortable and chic. The wrap idea is so clever. Nothing to dislike as such, although I did omit the bias binding finish on the wrap edges and drafted a facing which I topstitched into place.
Heavy weight chilli coloured linen which was gifted to me from Patterns and Plains.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I cut a size 16 through the bust, shoulders and arms, and graded out over the hips.
- FYI I am 5’3″.
- I shortened the rise (above the crotch) by 2 inches, both front and back.
- I further shortened the legs and sleeves by 3 inches and used 1.5 inches for hemming.
- I added 3/8ths inch seam allowance to the bodice fronts, back neckline and front of pants, upto the drill hole, to facilitate attaching the facing that I drafted.
- My facings were drafted to be 1.5 inches deep, with 3/8ths inch used as seam allowance. I interfaced the facings.
- I did a 5/8ths inch full bust adjustment and closed the resulting bust dart and rotated into the waist pleat. (Used the method for a cut on/ kimono sleeve bodice from Fit for Real People).
- I did a 5/8ths inch full bum adjustment.
- I moved the waist tie position down by 1 inch (my hole through which the tie passes is in the waist seam).
- I added a snap at the bodice cross over point.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would definitely love to sew this maybe in a plain black crepe. I definitely recommend.
Ultra clever design and just so easy to wear and feel amazing: definitely the surprise hit of the year for me so far.
Until soon my friends!