Paper Theory Patterns Zadie Jumpsuit: DIY Wrap Over Orange Linen Jumpsuit

Paper Theory Patterns Zadie jumpsuit in linen

Hey hey!

It’s not very often that I will purchase and make a new pattern close to it’s release. More often than not I will hang back to see the pattern start to appear in the wild on different body types before jumping in. But once I started seeing versions of this jumpsuit basically looking pretty amazing on everyone that has made it so far, I decided to take the plunge. This is the Paper Theory Patterns Zadie jumpsuit, and I love it!

Paper Theory Patterns Zadie jumpsuit in linen

Let me back up first and tell you about the beautiful linen that was gifted to me to make this pattern up. This is the Portrush Chilli Powder 100% linen from a new-to-me online fabric store, Patterns and Plains. This linen is really beautiful quality; heavy weight with a true, saturated colour which did not fade after washing. It washed, pressed and sewed like a dream with minimal fraying. Really, one of the better quality linens I have come across in this country. Definitely worth checking out the website and great customer service too.

Paper Theory Patterns Zadie jumpsuit in linen

Now, back to the details on the pattern. As ever, a full pattern review appears below. I wanted to point out that the eagle eyed among you may notice that I did not bind the wrap edges to finish them as suggested in the pattern. I had seen a few people complaining of either the bias binding finish not resulting in a clean finish and being rather fiddly, and also some complaining that the binding was flipping out to the outside. I cannot be on with readjusting my clothes once they are on my body! So I chose to draft nice sturdy facings which I topstitched into place.

Paper Theory Patterns Zadie jumpsuit in linen
Paper Theory Patterns Zadie jumpsuit in linen

Really….it has been so many years since I last wore a jumpsuit and I was rather dubious before finishing this garment, but now it is done I feel very chic and comfortable wearing it. BTW, I did add a press stud at the cross over point of the bodice, but honestly, it all feels pretty secure. I did make some modifications to this pattern to make it fit me, but I am so glad I took the time to do them.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

The Zadie Jumpsuit is a relaxed and easy to wear one piece that comes with the option of wide 3/4 length sleeves or sleeveless with a dropped shoulder. It wraps around the body and fastens with a tie with so there is no need for buttons or a zip – making it quick and to easy sew, and quick and easy to get on and off. The legs are cut wide and skim above the ankle. There are deep slant pockets on the front, with small pleats at the waist on the front and back. The neck edge is finished with a bias binding.

Pattern Sizing:

Sizes 6 – 28

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. I would recommend to follow the single layer cutting layout as suggested in the pattern for maximum fabric cutting economy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I have not worn a jumpsuit for years but I LOVE this one. It feels very comfortable and chic. The wrap idea is so clever. Nothing to dislike as such, although I did omit the bias binding finish on the wrap edges and drafted a facing which I topstitched into place.

Fabric Used:

Heavy weight chilli coloured linen which was gifted to me from Patterns and Plains.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I cut a size 16 through the bust, shoulders and arms, and graded out over the hips.
  • FYI I am 5’3″.
  • I shortened the rise (above the crotch) by 2 inches, both front and back.
  • I further shortened the legs and sleeves by 3 inches and used 1.5 inches for hemming.
  • I added 3/8ths inch seam allowance to the bodice fronts, back neckline and front of pants, upto the drill hole, to facilitate attaching the facing that I drafted.
  • My facings were drafted to be 1.5 inches deep, with 3/8ths inch used as seam allowance. I interfaced the facings.
  • I did a 5/8ths inch full bust adjustment and closed the resulting bust dart and rotated into the waist pleat. (Used the method for a cut on/ kimono sleeve bodice from Fit for Real People).
  • I did a 5/8ths inch full bum adjustment.
  • I moved the waist tie position down by 1 inch (my hole through which the tie passes is in the waist seam).
  • I added a snap at the bodice cross over point.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I would definitely love to sew this maybe in a plain black crepe. I definitely recommend.

Conclusion:

Ultra clever design and just so easy to wear and feel amazing: definitely the surprise hit of the year for me so far.

Until soon my friends!

Paper Theory Patterns Zadie jumpsuit in linen
Advertisements

Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

23 thoughts on “Paper Theory Patterns Zadie Jumpsuit: DIY Wrap Over Orange Linen Jumpsuit

  1. Since I saw yours pics on Instagram, I was waiting for your review! Thank you so much for all the details (as always!) about your fitting adjustments. This Zadie jumpsuit really looks beautiful on you and, OMG this color … MAGNIFIQUE!!!
    As I plan to sew this pattern and would also prefer a facing, I’m wondering how did you end the facing in the front crotch area.

    1. Thanks Natacha. I basically just drafted the facing to go all the way down to the drill hole on the pattern (at the crotch), but narrowed the facings slightly at this area. Then, I attached the facings, then sewed the crotch up (I had left it a little unsewn in this area) and finally overlocked the crotch seam and topstitched the facings flat. I hope that helps you! If you want me to send you a photograph via instagram if you think that helps I can. Send me a message.

  2. Oh, this looks sensational on you! Colour and design are so pretty. I definitely appreciate the details of adjustments. Your pattern reviews are always so helpful. Happy sewing!

  3. Great informative review (as always!), never worn a jumpsuit but you’ve made me feel inspired, lovely combination with your faric👍👍

  4. It looks great on you. I appreciate that you photograph your makes from all angles; I’ve been keeping an eye on reviews for this pattern, but almost no one photographs the back view! I was wondering if it would be very baggy, but yours looks like a nice fit. Thanks for the review!

  5. Fabulous result! Love everything about it; you have almost inspired me to make one, too. Thanks so much for including all the fitting details and particularly for the back-view photo.

  6. If you google it you should see it come up: I think By Hand London and definitely Colette patterns have tutorials for it. It basically is a slash and spread adjustment which adds extra width AND length to account for a fuller bum.

  7. Thanks for all the details of the alterations you made. I am also short, just 5 ft, and have been looking to see this on someone else my size. I have the pattern cut and need to make similar alterations. Now I need to get to work! Thanks. Yours looks great.

  8. This looks great on you–I’ve made one Zadie in a medium gray rayon/poly mix. Everything was good until the binding, and it was a mess. Thanks so much for detailing your alterations, providing front and back photos and describing the drafting of the facing. I’m making another!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s