Hi Everyone,
Squeezing in the final post of the year to share my latest completed make of 2018: a second version of Butterick 6169, this time made in a Linton tweed. You may recall the first version that I made more than 3 years ago (already?!) in a black leather. That version has been such a staple in my wardrobe and I love to wear it. Hopefully this version will also be a piece that has a strong place in my me-made wardrobe.
This version is fully interfaced using a fusible stitched reinforced interfacing. I block fused the Linton tweed to the interfacing before cutting out the pattern pieces in a single layer to facilitate keeping the pattern balanced across the jacket. To avoid going mental with the pattern matching add a bit of interest I cut some parts of the jacket on the bias. The front centre panels, the side back panels and the under sleeves are all cut on the bias. I think it worked pretty well.
In terms of adding internal structure to the jacket, unlike the first version I omitted the shoulder pads, sleeve heads and shoulder reinforcements. I wanted a softer look. But I did add a back stay and used twill tape to stay the shoulders and the back neckline.
The original version has in-seam welt pockets which are rather small and not that ideal in terms of positioning either. In this version I added exposed zipper welt pockets. I used this tutorial from the Pattern Review website, which is very good. The only thing I did differently to the tutorial was to use silk organza to stabilise my openings. I like the sleek look of these pockets, and also the way it draws the eye down to my waist.
Some other details: I added snaps to the collar points to hold the collar back in place. I can still wear the jacket fully closed if I want, but I rather like the look of the collar held back in place. The key to installing snaps like is to build the layers up inside to hold the snaps firmly in place. I also added a hanging chain.
Here are some shots on the dressform. The fabric is red white and blue, in case you’re wondering, with a hint of black as well I think. The lining is an acetate satin lining from Fabworks. It feels very luxurious. I chose to fully bag my lining out on the machine.
In conclusion, I am so impressed with how this jacket turned out. It feels quite luxurious and special to wear. I greatly admire all those sewists who make classic French jackets using Linton tweeds (or equivalent – Julie Starr you are one!), but the thought of all that hand sewing and spending 100 hours making a jacket….I am still not there! So my final thought is don’t be intimidated or think using faster techniques is not acceptable: it totally is. Find the method that works for you, and brings you the most enjoyment and enjoy the process, however long you chose to take.
Thank you all so much for following along with me this year, for all your comments, likes, shares, questions, answers and opportunities. Wishing you health, happiness, peace, prosperity and successful sewing in the new year. I don’t know if I will be doing a round up post for the year (there is still time!) but you can always catch a snapshot of what I make through the year via the “Sewing by Year” tab at the top of this blog.
Until soon.
Beautiful jacket! Happy New Year!
Thank you Jen. Happy new year.
I love it. So cool. I’ll bet you will get lots of wear from it.
Thanks Margaret. I hope so!
Your jacket looks really sharp. I much prefer it over a Chanel-style jacket; this one will be more serviceable I think.
Thanks Julie. Yes I do like the idea of a traditional Chanel style jacket but this one is just seems a bit more modern I think.
I really love your jacket. Thanks for the detailed post as this pattern has been on my list for ages.
Thanks Faye and happy new year
Gorgeous jacket! Love the tweed. Which interfacing did you use on it. I’m always afraid to use iron on for a tweed, but yours looks like it still left the fabric supple. Love your style. Thanks too, for all the great pics of the process! Happy New Year!
Thanks I used a stitched reinforced fusible interfacing. Happy new year.
Great jacket!
Thank you Eileen
Love the jacket. Thank you for sharing all of your info. I am basically your twin so everything you do to a pattern I need to do to a pattern. Thanks again. Have a good new year.
Thank Mona and happy new year
I love working with Linton tweeds. You are so lucky to live close to the shop. Great jacket! The bias details make I look custom plus saving your eyesight and sanity. Happy New Year
Thank you Mary. Yes I was lucky to pick this fabric up from the remnant section of the shop! Happy new year.
wow this is fantastic, it looks so sharp and the combo of the biker style with the Linton tweed makes it more interesting. And what a good idea to cut some parts on the bias. Happy New Year!
Thanks Beth. Happy new year!
Love the look of the bias cut portions and the hanging chain is such a cool addition!
Thank you Colleen
You are so clever with your choices of fabrics and patterns. It’s always fun to see what adventure you will show us. Happy sewing, and Happy New Year!
Thank you and happy new year Lyrique.
I love your jacket – it’s fabulous. I did make a Chanel-type jacket with lots of hand sewing following a class – but I plan to do more, much more, on the machine next time and I would certainly fully bag the lining. I’m happy I could do it, just really don’t want to! I love this particular fabric, too. I’m going to look at my Linton tweeds and choose one for a jacket (if there is enough of any one – I’ve tended to buy remnants!). I think the bias cut sections are great – whyever you decided to do them they do add interest. I hadn’t thought of a moto jacket, thinking it wasn’t my style but you’ve changed my mind completely. Happy New Year!
I remember your jacket Anne. A labour of love! I am lucky to have got this fabric from the remnant section. I think I prefer this more modern look, vs the traditional jacket. Happy new year.
This is lovely! I never thought of using a tweed. The last one I made was with drapery fabric. I’ll have to keep the tweed in mind. Just lovely!
Thank you Linda.
I love the way you’ve taken fabric and a pattern and made it so uniquely your own! Thanks so much for all your posts this year. Happy New Year and happy sewing!
Thanks Del and thank you for following along and all your comments and likes. Happy new year.
Oh my goodness, your jacket is AMAZING!!! I spotted the bias cut pieces straight away, and love them! Love all the details in this jacket, the fasteners, and the pockets. You did a brilliant job (as ever!), happy wearing!!
Thanks Lynne. Happy new year!
This is my first time on your blog – thanks Blovlovin’ weekly email! Love this jacket! Before I read your write-up, I thought the bias-cut pieces made it easier to look at – I can get dizzy looking at an entire plaid piece! I look forward to seeing more of your makes in 2019!!
Hi! Was I featured on the weekly email? Thanks and hope you enjoy my blog. Happy new year.
I looked back, and it appears you’re on mine because a blogger I follow saved your post.
What a way to end 2018 with such a beautifully made jacket — great job!
I l love the outfit — What pants pattern did you use?
Happy New Year!
Thanks. Sorry but the pants are RTW. I didn’t make them.
First time here. Gorgeous jacket and love all the detailed pics too. Pardon my ignorance not knowing what ‘bag the lining’ means.
Bag the lining means you sew the entire lining by machine and turn the whole thing through a hole you leave in the lining e.g in the sleeve
You did a beautiful job on that jacket, it looks wonderful on you! I’ve enjoyed reading your blog all year and seeing all your lovely makes. I like that you use “big 4” patterns as well as others, I have loads of them in my stash waiting to get made up into garments! Keep up the good work and Happy 2019!
It is gorgeous! I love all of the details! This is the first time I have seen a hanging chain.
I love the way you’ve got this style to work in tweed – such a great idea and it’s come together brilliantly. I have this pattern lurking in my stash, and I’m sorely tempted to dig it out now..!
Hi can I ask what size you made this up in?
An 18 I think