We are fully into the colder weather and shorter, darker days here in my part of the world. And of course, that means my sewing is reflecting that. This is Vogue 9201, made in a viscose crepe with a dark, dramatic floral print. This is a shirt dress with some interesting features. Let me show you the line drawings, because it’s quite hard to pick them out in this light/ fabric.
I made view C, but shortened the length to more of a midi length. Overall, I love this design. It is something different in the shirt dress category, with that slight retro feel to it. The fit and flare silhouette is flattering and comfortable, and using a fabric with drape helps to lend a more grown up feel to the dress I think.
As ever, you can read my full pattern review below. The main alteration that I made was a full bust adjustment, adding the corresponding extra width into the skirt to ensure the pleats matched the princess seams. Truthfully, I didn’t need as much adding to the waist as I did, and so it feels a little bit looser than I would like at the waist. Hence the belt. But it definitely hasn’t stopped me from already wearing this dress a ton, and I have adjusted the pattern for next time.
Now, one thing I have to say before I get emails/ questions about it! The placket is one of those McCalls pattern company plackets which will have you scratching your head and threatening to throw the bodice in the bin, lol. Fortunately, I have done a few of these now, and I can confirm that yes, it is a little complex, but it is achievable by carefully following the instructions. Oh, and watch out for the buttonholes – more on that in my review below.
Fitted dress has front band and fly button closing to waist, front princess seams that release into pleats, invisible side zipper, narrow hem, and length variations. A: Short sleeves. A, B: Collar band, detachable collar and purchased belt. B, C: Long sleeves with cuffs. C: Collar (cut on the bias) extends into tie ends.
I made view C shortened to a midi length
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
For the most part, yes. The placket instructions take some figuring out but they are doable, and the instructions are correct.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the fact this is a shirt dress with a difference! It’s an interesting sew which challenged me a little. I enjoyed making it. I like the feminine, retro style and I love it made up in this drapey viscose crepe with its dark, dramatic floral print. Nothing to dislike as such. One thing to watch out for: I made my buttonholes before assembling the dress fully. I would even go as far as saying, if I was making this again, I would make the top button hole before fully sewing the placket…it’s quite tight to manoeuvre into the placket otherwise.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- 1 inch full bust adjustment
- Added the 1 inch corresponding to the full bust adjustment to the front skirt to ensure the pleats matched the princess seams
- Lengthened the front plackets by the corresponding amount brought in by the full bust adjustment
- 1 inch full arm adjustment
- Shortened the skirt by 3.25 inches
- 5/8ths inch full bum adjustment
- I think I ended up shortening my collar slightly, due to fabric constraints. It’s a pretty long collar!
- I used a double yoke and the burrito method for a clean finish inside, rather than the hand sewing recommended in the instructions
- I had to gather my front bodice slightly to get the princess seams/ pleats to line up, so I have some slight blousing at the front
- The waist on my version feels a little large, so I have removed some width (1 inch total) from the princess seams and the pleats at the waist only, for next time
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would like to sew it again, one of the other views, maybe with a contrasting placket and collar. Yes, I recommend to adventurous sewists!
If you are looking for a shirt dress with a little something extra, check this one out.