It’s that time of year when I make the project that I personally get the most enjoyment from: a coat. This year’s project is brought you with thanks to the Simplicity New Look Group who provided me with the pattern, and also to Fabworks for the amazing wool (more on that in a moment). Heads up: this is a picture heavy post.
Before going into the details of this particular pattern I have to mention that initially I really wanted to use Simplicity 8749 (by Mimi G Style). I loved the fact that that particular coat was lined, had two piece sleeves, had the notched lapel and was single breasted. But after doing a tissue fit, I found I needed a FBA which brought in a bust dart, and at that point I got too scared to go any further. I didn’t want the bust dart there and I tried rotating it out and taking the excess out of the side seam but it was just getting a little crazy. I am just mentioning this in case anyone else finds that helpful, and who knows, I might revisit that pattern at a later date.
Anyway, I ended up using another Mimi G Style pattern: Simplicity 8451, and, despite it not having two piece sleeves, in all other aspects this is a beautifully drafted coat. The instructions are very good, and are supplemented with a YouTube tutorial if you need more support. I didn’t watch the entire tutorial, but did watch the section on the welt pockets which was useful. Here’s some details:
The back of the coat is supposed to have a trench-inspired overlay, but I didn’t add that to my coat. So my coat is plain, with the addition of a centre back seam.
I lined the coat with a colourful digital printed polyester satin that I had in my stash, purchased from Minerva Crafts some years ago. I like the flashes of pink which pick out the pink of the wool. The instructions have you bag the lining out completely by machine, which is my preferred method anyway, but some of you may like to finish by hand. There are separate lining pieces included, and the back lining includes a pleat.
We took the outdoor photographs late one afternoon, so here’s a couple of shots on the dressform for a truer representation of the colour of the fabric. BTW, the fabric is a 100% lambswool and is this one right here (pink patisserie). At the time of writing there are about 10 metres left. It really is a beautiful fabric, not least because of the wonderful colour, but also because it is not overly bulky (yet still warm) so sewed up with no problems (even the buttonholes!) and, of course, responds to steam well.
Dress and lined coat pattern designed by Mimi G Style. Dress has french darts with large front pockets and scoop back neckline. Coat has an oversized collar, double breasted closure and welt flap pockets.
6 – 24
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I think so, but I omitted the back overlay detail and added a centre back seam.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are very good and are supplemented with a YouTube tutorial if you need extra help. I just used the tutorial to check how the welt pockets were done.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished coat. I love the overall style and the lapels. This is such a modern classic coat that will suit everyone. I love the fact that the undercollar is in two pieces, cut on the bias, the fact that there are separate lining pieces included, and the fact that the back lining piece has a pleat. These are all elements which add up to a great coat pattern. The one thing which is disappointing is the lack of two piece sleeves.
100% lambswool with a herringbone weave from Fabworks.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I added a centre back seam and omitted the back overlay feature
- I did a 1 inch full arm adjustment (and made the sleeve tabs 0.25 inch longer)
- In terms of internal tailoring, I fully fused the fronts of the coat, I added a shoulder reinforcement, I added a back stay, I stayed the shoulders using twill tape, I interfaced the hems, I interfaced the sleeve caps and armscyes and I made custom shoulder pads. You can see pictures all of these internal stages in my Instagram highlights story, here.
- I would say the fit is generous and forgiving: finished measurements are given to help you select your size.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
You all know me: I like to try out different coat patterns, but never say never. I do recommend.
A cosy modern classic which can totally be made yours by your fabric selection. Love!
BTW I still don’t own a black coat….maybe next year?