Butterick 5795 and the April Rhodes Staple Dress: DIY Swimsuit and Chiffon Swim Cover Up

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April Rhodes Staple Dress

Hey Everyone,

My summer holiday seems like a long time ago already, but here I am only just posting the second to last holiday related items.

This is a review for a swimsuit made using Butterick 5795 and also a swimsuit cover up, which was made using the April Rhodes Staple Dress pattern.

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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit

You will have to read the reviews below for the full details but in essence I do recommend the swimsuit pattern, with adjustments. It certainly is the best fitting and most supportive swimsuit I own in terms of bust fit. I think that is largely due to the fact that I made my own swimcups using swim foam – pattern pieces are included for this. I will put links to suppliers down below too. The Staple Dress happened to be in my pattern stash from a few years ago, and it worked out fine, but I don’t know if I would rush to make it again.

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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit
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April Rhodes Staple Dress

I had to remove 2 inches of length from the body of the swimsuit and because I felt this resulted in a lot of the ruching over the stomach being taken out I slashed and spread the pattern to add an extra 4 inches back in, just in this region. See here (this adjustment is made just to the right front only):

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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit

Here are some flat lay and inside shots. The swim suit is fully lined and I love how neat it looks inside.

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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit
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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit
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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit
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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit
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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit

The entire swimsuit was constructed on my Janome sewing machine, with only the inside side seam allowances being neatened using my overlocker. I really want some more swimsuit fabric now so I can have a go at making another one with refinements. I think the major lesson I learned was that I don’t need to stretch the elastic quite so much! Put it this way: there is no chance of this swimsuit sliding off. 🙂

Pattern Review Butterick 5795

Pattern Description: 

Semi-fitted, cover-up has front draped into buckle, gathers at shoulders, short sleeves and slits at side seams. Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustments. Top or swimdress has princess seams. A, B, C:Pullover. Mock-wrap swimsuit with gathering at side. B, C, D: Built-in bra with elastic. E: Skirt. F: Bikini bottoms. A, B, C, E: Narrow hem. Elasticized neckline, armholes B, C, D, waist E, F, leg openings D, F. All are close-fitting and cut on crosswise grain of fabric. B, C, D, F: Lined.

Includes separate pattern pieces for A/B, C and D cup sizes.
I made the swimsuit – view D.

Pattern Sizing:

18 – 32

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. Very good.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the multisize cup pattern and the fact that pieces are included to sew your own swim cups: the fit through the bust is so comfortable and supportive.

The pattern is obviously drafted for people of considerable height? So I did have to remove some length and I am not sure if the ruching over the tummy is quite like I want it to be.

Fabric Used:

4 way stretch spandex swimsuit fabric with a swim lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • Pattern has you cut the body pieces on the cross grain. I am guessing they do this so the greatest stretch goes around the body? But my fabric had equal stretch in both directions, and because my fabric had a directional print, I cut on the straight of grain.
  • I removed 2 inches in length from the body of the swimsuit but slashed and spread the right front pattern piece so I go some of the ruching back (adding in 4 inches for ruching).
  • I ignored all of the pattern elastic lengths and did my own thing. With hindsight I think I don’t need to make the elastic quite so tight next time.
  • Shortened lower bra elastic by 1″.
  • Scooped lower back out by 2 inches.
  • Raised armholes by 2 inches.
  • The lining didn’t seem to match the outer swimsuit at the armholes so I “redrafted” and raised to match.
  • Shortened shoulder straps by 1 inch from the front and also from the back.
  • For next time:
    • I have narrowed the front crotch, removing 0.5 inches from either side.
    • Lower back a tad more?
    • Lower armholes a little more? 0.5 – 1″?
    • Adjust the ruching so it is better distributed over the tummy area.
    • Do a sway back adjustment.
    • The inside lining fabric at the V-neck does want to peek out so this needs to be trimmed down.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

If I can get the fabric I would definitely like to have another go at making this. Yes, I recommend…but be prepared for some possible alterations.

Conclusion: 

I am so happy to have this classic swimsuit style in my repertoire: another version or two is required to perfect the fit!

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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit

Pattern Review April Rhodes Staple Dress

Pattern Description: 

Designed to be simple yet flattering. This dress has a lot of ease through the bust and hip, with elastic shirring at the waist to cinch it in. The waistline can be customized and adjusted up and down to accent the wearer’s natural waist. Choose between two hemlines, a classic straight hem or a more dramatic drop hem style, with optional side-seam pockets.

Pattern Sizing:

xs – xxl

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I thought the finished garment was fine for my swimsuit cover up, but it’s a pretty basic style and I am not sure if I will rush to make it again.

Fabric Used:

Polyester chiffon.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I added 1 inch to my front and back side seams for fit insurance.
  • I made the armholes 3/4 inch deeper in the front and the back. It still feels  a little restrictive in the arms. Not enough to make it unwearable, but just not perfect.
  • Lengthened by 2 inches.
  • 1 inch FBA. Bust dart position might need to be moved slightly?
  • French seamed bust darts and overlocked seams.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I thought the finished garment was fine for my swimsuit cover up, but it’s a pretty basic style and I am not sure if I will rush to make it again. Everyone was making this pattern a few years back: if you like the style, make it up.

Conclusion: 

This served its purpose well enough and I will probably bring it out for future holidays. But next time maybe I will try a different pattern. I happened to have this one on hand.

Suppliers list:

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Butterick 5795 Swimsuit

I have already worn this swimsuit back at home to my gym….so it can’t be all that bad 🙂

See you soon.

 

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Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

9 thoughts on “Butterick 5795 and the April Rhodes Staple Dress: DIY Swimsuit and Chiffon Swim Cover Up

  1. Absolutely fabulous. Beautiful fabric coordinates with the beautiful pool. Might as well make 2 so no need to put on a damp suit when swimming morning and evening.

  2. Very nice! I am impressed. I tried to make a swimsuit this year from a McCalls pattern, but it was not successful – the techniques led to a messy looking result. The inside looks so nice on the Butterick pattern, I will be checking that out for next year. Love your choice of fabric too – such a nice looking suit.

  3. Your swimsuit looks amazing! The fit is spot on and I imagine much, much better than any RTW suit. Your pattern alterations were perfect. I agree that some length needed to be added back so as not to lose the effect of the ruching. I imagine that doing custom cups is also a great help in getting the perfect fit.

  4. I love both the swimsuit and the coverup. I’ve had this pattern for a really long time, but your version makes me want to tackle the inevitable fit issues. I really love it. ❤

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