Today’s post relates to a denim jacket that I made a couple of months ago, using Butterick 5616. A me-made denim jacket has been on my to-sew list for a couple of years now, so I am glad I finally got it ticked off. There are quite a few different jeans jackets patterns around, but I went for this Butterick one largely because it has the front princess seams, which meant I could easily do a FBA. Most jeans jackets don’t have front princess seams: instead they have that triple piece panelling in front, and I just couldn’t see how to adjust the bust fit easily. Plus I didn’t want too boxy a fit.
To be fair, this jacket has already been worn quite a lot. And I do like it. But….there is still something off with it. When I started this jacket, it started as a very dark indigo denim (see a before picture here). I decided, as I was getting to the end of sewing it, that it looked awful. So I threw the finished jacket in a bucket full of thin bleach solution (1:1 bleach: water) for 20 minutes and bleached it. Prior to the bleaching, I also used some sandpaper to add some distressing. You can see from the before picture the bleaching was very effective, but…I don’t know if I should have another go and it could perhaps go down another couple of shades? And maybe a little more distressing? Possibly….
I will be honest; this jacket was a pretty challenging make. My sewing machine didn’t particularly love the thicker parts of the flat fell seams and initially I was a little disappointed at some of the thread nests inside the jacket. But, on reflection, it’s not soooo bad…in this case, done is better than perfect. BTW, I did overlock the front yoke seam and the armhole seams.
Very loose-fitting jackets A, B, C, D, in three lengths, have princess seams, front and back yokes, slightly forward shoulder, buttoned fronts and topstitch trim. A, B: Below waist, patch pockets with buttoned flaps, three-quarter length sleeves with buttoned cuffs. A: Stand-up collar. B: Collar, topstitched band at lower edge. C: Hip-length, collar, patch pockets and cap sleeves finished with bias tape. D: Hip-length, sleeveless, collar, patch pockets with flaps and armholes finished with bias tape.
The description doesn’t make mention of the fact that there are two piece sleeves.
I made view B.
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are ok…but they will not tell you how to finish the seams or do flat fell seams, which are the traditional way to construct and finish a denim jacket like this.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Unlike most traditional denim jackets, I like the fact that there are princess seams in the front which I used to do a FBA. I like the finished jacket, although I am debating whether to bleach/ distress a little more. I don’t know if I love the cuff opening treatment. Adding an extension there might have been nicer?
A dark denim which I bleached to a mid colour using a thin bleach solution 1:1 bleach: water for 20 minutes after I had finished sewing (and topstitching) the jacket.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- 0.5 inch full bust adjustment
- 0.5 inch sway back adjustment (adding removed length back to lower hem of jacket)
- 0.5 inch full arm adjustment
- Lengthened sleeve by 1 inch
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t know if I need another of these jackets anytime soon, but never say never. Yes, I recommend.
A wardrobe staple which you can make your own in so many ways. A great pattern to have in the stash.
See you soon friends.