Simplicity 8554: DIY Unstructured Grey Cupro Trench Duster Coat

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Simplicity 8554 unstructured trench duster coat made in grey cupro

Hey All,

Simplicity 8554 has been on my to-sew list since the beginning of spring, and I finally got it made up this week. This is a really great smart-casual piece to add to my wardrobe going into autumn, with a laid back, relaxed vibe to it. I made mine in a grey cupro from Rainbow Fabrics. It feels very light to wear and is breathable (being  made from cellulose pulp, similar to viscose/ rayon), although it doesn’t take a press to well, and I was glad to have my walking foot on  hand to handle sewing this particular fabric.

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Simplicity 8554 unstructured trench duster coat made in grey cupro
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Simplicity 8554 unstructured trench duster coat made in grey cupro
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Simplicity 8554 unstructured trench duster coat made in grey cupro

Aside from dealing with the sewing of the cupro, the pattern itself is an easy one, well drafted and I made hardly any adjustments to it at all. It is unlined, so bear that in mind with your seam finishes. I went for binding the front and back facings, and overlocking the armscyes/ sleeves/ side seams and pockets.

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Simplicity 8554 unstructured trench duster coat made in grey cupro
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Simplicity 8554 unstructured trench duster coat made in grey cupro
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Simplicity 8554 unstructured trench duster coat made in grey cupro
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Simplicity 8554 unstructured trench duster coat made in grey cupro

The only other thing to consider is that if, like me, you make the view with the storm flaps, the pattern suggests that you should self line them (with self fabric). Due to fabric limitations, I lined mine with the same viscose lining that I used to make the bias binding from. I don’t mind the occasional flash of pink, but if I had had a choice, I would have bought more fabric.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description: 

Sized for miss and miss petite, easy to sew soft trench and jacket are the perfect layering pieces. Length options include short, mid and long with side slits with optional pockets and ties. Simplicity sewing pattern.

I made view B.

Pattern Sizing:

6 – 22

I cut a size 18 through the bust and shoulders and graded out over the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the whole unstructured, casual, slouchy vibe. Plus points for having separate upper and under collar pieces, although I probably should have cut the under collar in two pieces, on the bias. I didn’t, and it’s fine. Nothing to dislike, although there is an error at step 27 – don’t fold the belt in half.

Fabric Used:

Cupro.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I cut view B and added 5 and 3/4 inches to the length to get a more midi length (FYI I am 5’3″)
  • I shortened the sleeves by 2 inches
  • I did a 1 inch full arm adjustment
  • I didn’t have sufficient fabric to cut self lining for the storm flaps so used a viscose lining I had in my stash. I also used the same lining to make the binding for the facings. 3 metres of binding should be adequate to do the binding for this project
  • This coat is unlined and I used a combination of bias tape to finish the facing edges and my overlocker on the armscyes/ sleeves/ side seams and pockets. Because of this, I didn’t clip into the back seam allowances at the ends of the pockets as the instructions describe. It’s still fine.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I don’t know if I would sew again, just because I don’t need another one of these in my wardrobe. I do recommend.

Conclusion: 

Easy to sew, fun to wear and a great transitional piece.

See you soon!

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Simplicity 8554 unstructured trench duster coat made in grey cupro

 

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Posted by

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

10 thoughts on “Simplicity 8554: DIY Unstructured Grey Cupro Trench Duster Coat

  1. I’m glad you made and reviewed this. All your work is lovely. I’m trying to plan a coat wardrobe, and as you said, this is a great transition piece. Am I correct in seeing this looks like it’s pockets are plenty roomy? Nothing worse than finding that a cold gloved hand having to be very careful reaching into a just barely big enough pocket is more trouble than making a whole new coat.

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