Hi Everyone!
We are back from a lovely time in Javea, Spain, with some photos to show the garments I made to take with me, in action. (BTW, I have also updated my last post, about McCalls 7624 with a couple of new photos taken on holiday).
So, today I want to talk about McCalls 7745, which I chose to make up in this beautiful blue floral viscose which I got from Sew Over It a couple of years back (sorry, sold out now). I actually won their monthly #SOIshowoff on Instagram, sharing my silk pussy bow blouse, and the prize was a £20 spend in their online store. I purchased 3 metres of this wonderful quality viscose. I have mixed feelings about the dress, and I am not sure if I did the right thing or not using the fabric for this particular pattern.
Whilst I love the fabric, print, colour and feel, the main thing throwing me off this dress is the bodice fit. Kisha also talked about her issues with this pattern on her blog. This is one of those multi-cup sized patterns so I didn’t do an FBA, cutting a D cup, which normally works for me. I did do a tissue fit. I dropped the bust darts by 1.5 inches, but I think that might have been too much? The fit through the bodice just isn’t right, and I am also not sure about the sleeves and the back of the neck either.
I will say that, neck aside, I did like the fit of the back bodice and the skirt…which led me to making the skirt portion as a stand alone skirt (see below).
To preserve my modesty, and save the dress, I ended up sewing in two press studs into the front bodice to keep everything secure. But you can see from the picture below it is really not ideal…
Anyhoo, as I say, I liked the skirt portion enough to decide to make the skirt as a stand alone piece. Now this I love! I love the ruffle hem (even though there is 5.5 metres of narrow hemming to do on it, it’s worth it!)
The fabric for the skirt is again from stash: a polka dot viscose purchased locally to me. You really want something with drape to show off the movement of the ruffle. My version ended up being a true wrap skirt: the left hand side tie is longer to allow it to wrap around my waist and there is a buttonhole in the waistband on the right hand side to allow the wrap to pass through.
Here’s how I wore the skirt (with a new silk Ogden cami – review still to come) on a day trip we made to Valencia. I do love this skirt and I have already worn it multiple times.
Pattern Review
Pattern Description:
Close fitting wrap dresses have neckline and sleeve variations, and ribbon ties. A, C, D:Shaped hemline, wrong side of fabric will show. Includes separate pattern pieces for A/B, C, and D cups.
I made view D and then used the skirt portion only from view C to make a wrap skirt.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Well, I don’t think the bodice fits correctly, the way the illustration shows. I don’t love the way the neck and sleeves sit.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yep.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The only thing stopping me from saying this dress is a dud is 1. the fabric and 2. the fact I sewed 2 press studs in at the front bodice. The bodice, sleeves and neck fit is off. I am going to keep the dress and hope to wear again (probably to something where I am just standing up, lol), but I have already purchased a new Simplicity pattern which doesn’t have raglan sleeves and is a wrap with flounce hem which I am hoping will be better than this one.
I liked the fit on the skirt enough to make the skirt from view C as a true wrap skirt with a ruffle hem and I LOVE it.
Fabric Used:
Viscose prints for both the dress and skirt.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
For the dress:
- I used the D cup pattern pieces
- I self lined the bodice (yes, this bodice is lined – 3 metres of fabric still let me self line the bodice BTW)
- I dropped the bust dart by 1.5 inches – maybe this was too much
- I wanted to keep the length of view D in front, but the back was way too long. I free hand removed approx. 10 inches from the back of the skirt (I am 5’3″ FYI)
- I did a 5/8ths inch sway back adjustment, adding the removed length back to the lower hem
- I added 1 inch wide bias interfacing strips to the bodice front to try and prevent stretching
- I made self fabric ties
For the skirt:
- I made a true wrap skirt
- The left hand side tie is longer to allow it to wrap around my waist and there is a buttonhole in the waistband on the right hand side to allow the wrap to pass through
- I wish I had perhaps interfaced the wrap ties as they buckle a little when worn
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Nope, I will not sew the dress again. I might sew the skirt…if I can face sewing the 5.5. metre long narrow hem, lol. Most of the other successful versions of this dress seem to have made view A…I don’t know if I recommend view C/D.
Conclusion:
Both items hold special memories now and I love the skirt but the dress was somewhat of a disappointment.
Onwards and upwards! Enjoy the week ahead.
sewmanju 
Absolutely love the skirt. Your choice of a polka dot fabric was inspired!
Thanks Kathryn. That fabric has been sitting in my stash for a couple of years waiting for the right pattern to come along.
Like you, the ONLY reason this dress is in my closet is because of the fabric. The bodice is a huge disappointment. I wondered about the other version because I have only seen complaints about this one. But I’m SO put off. I am definitely making the skirt!! I’m making mine for fall with a lightweight plaid shirting. So excited:)
Your dress is beautiful; the fabric really sings. I love the skirt. Every thing about it is perfect.
Looks like you all had a wonderful time in Spain!
Thanks Kisha. Yep, the skirt is great. I think the other views for this dress might be ok?
Although you’re not satisfied with the fit, the wrap dress doesn’t look that bad. Surplice bodices are always tough for fuller busts; the pattern never gives quite enough shaping to cover the bust yet hug the front chest. The skirt is a definite winner and I love how you’ve styled it with both the shirt and cami.
Thanks Mary. Yeah, I know what you’re saying about surplice bodices and fuller busts…I guess I just had high hopes for this.
The dress is so pretty, I love the color on you. and the skirt is so cute also. I just bought a Simplicity pattern which is quite similar and hope to make it before summer is gone. As for the McCalls pattern, I think there is something wrong in the design of the bodice/raglan sleeve. It wants to ride up on the neck and the shape is just not comfortable. Unfortunate as it is a cute design and a raglan is so easy to sew. Onward to the next project, right?
I wonder if we have bought the same Simplicity pattern, Beth? Yep, I will still wear this, but it is not right. Shame.
The skirt is really fabulous. Looks great in both ways that you styled it. As for the dress, it’s very pretty, but if you’re not comfortable, well, we all know how that is! I tend to think that the cup size patterns often don’t put enough shaping in the bust area and the FBA has to be done anyway – especially with a raglan sleeve. It’s usually more work than I want to do, since the FBA on one side has to be incorporated into the lower side of the other.
Thanks Jenny, you make some interesting points!
I really like your skirt and the other versions I’ve seen online. I’m glad you’re at least getting a lot of wear from the skirt!
Thanks Carolyn. I wore the skirt today to work infact!
I adore your vacation wardrobe, Manju! My favoritte is the pöolka dot skirt! Sooooo chic!
I’M ALSO JEAULOUS OF THE PAELLA!!!!
Great pics and I hope yu had an amazing time =)
xB
Paella for life, B, for life. Lol Thanks x
Ok first thing, paella is LIFE!!!!❤️️❤️️❤️️
Next thing, y’all looked like you had a blast in Spain!
Lastly, now I want a ruffled wrap polkadot skirt too!😍
Thanks so much Abbey. The paella was yum! All the seafood was.
I love both the dress and the skirt. They look lovely and the fabric is so beautiful!! Sorry you aren’t happy with the fit of the bodice, though it wasn’t that noticeable to me.
Thanks Anna.
I made the Simplicity wrap dress with flounced hem for my zaftig daughter — she has the same trouble with keeping the surplice wrap closed as do you in this McCall’s offering. It is the most difficult neckline to fit to a curvy figure … we are conquering it with a button-to-the-inside at bust level, and a lot of hope. And probably some large safety pins. And a lace modesty panel pinned above the vee of the surplice wrap.
Also, you may care to know that the shoulders were longer than necessary on her by nearly 2 inches, and sleeves were far too tight as drafted. I ended up drafting a flutter sleeve, which allows her to use her arms while wearing the dress (always a nice feature in a garment, being able to move while wearing it), and which echo the well-drafted hem flounces.
Ha, thanks Lin B. Being able to move is always a nice feature, lol
I agree, the skirt comes out very nice, however, the bodice did not no matter the amount of grading I did. I had the same shoulder/bust issues with McCall’s 7682. I finally had to draft my own bodice patterns for both. It took a bit of time to learn, but in the end was much easier than using either McCall’s bodice patterns …