I returned to work after a 5 year break a year ago (already?!) and realised I didn’t own a suit anymore. I bought around 7 metres of this wool/ viscose/ elastane suiting from Fabworks last year (sorry, all sold out now, but other options available on their website), and thought I would make a trouser suit with a dress or skirt option (still to be made). Trousers suits are trending at the moment in women’s fashion, so I am so pleased to have added these pieces to my wardrobe. You’ve already seen the trousers, and as a stand alone piece they have been great. Now I think I have found my favourite blazer pattern in McCalls 6172 (out of print, but still available to purchase from the McCalls website, I think?)
This pattern is a Palmer and Pletsch pattern, and it’s worth the price for the instructions alone. Not only are they the best instructions I have come across in terms of telling you how to sew a blazer with a notched lapel, but there is a wealth of fitting instruction included – as well as the lines marked on the pattern indicating where you should make adjustments such as a full bust adjustment or full arm adjustment. For me, the placement of these lines worked out brilliantly, and I highly, highly recommend.
I particularly love that there is no princess seam in the front (but there is in the back) – instead there is a front dart which makes doing an FBA easy enough. I think this just looks more modern and RTW. I also love the fit through the shoulders (I have struggled with this using previous blazer patterns), and there is lots of interfacing through the jacket to provide lightweight support.
This pattern introduced a new-to-me method of making welt pockets which I am not 100% sure about, but maybe it’s a question of trying it again? The blazer is fully lined in an acetate satin twill, again from Fabworks, which makes this blazer lovely to wear.
Close-fitting, partially interfaced, darted blazer with side panels have notched collar and two piece sleeve. A Above hip-length and single button closure. B Welt pockets, self-faced flaps, hip-length and two button closure. C Lined patch pockets, below hip-length and single button closure. Purchased top, pants and skirt. Optional purchased flower pin.
I made view B.
8 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are exceptionally good. Full marks given for both the sewing instruction as well as the fitting instruction. The tissue pieces come marked with lines to show you where to cut to make pattern adjustments. These worked out brilliantly for me.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Love the instructions. Love the final fit. Love the dart in the front of the jacket as opposed to princess seams – makes a FBA easy but keeps the look more modern and RTW IMO. Love the fit through the shoulders. Wasn’t so sure about the welt pocket method but they turned out ok.
A wool/ viscose/ elastane blend.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- 1 inch full arm adjustment.
- Shortened the sleeve by 3 inches (at least that’s what my notes tell me! Seems rather a lot?!)
- Lengthened the jacket by 1 inch.
- 0.5 inch full bust adjustment. I closed the bust dart and incorporated it into the vertical dart.
- Shortened the vertical bust dart by 1 inch?
- 0.5 inch sway back adjustment and added removed length back to lower hem.
- Note to self – if following the included method to make the welt pockets – didn’t like the fact you sewed a closed box at step 6. Next time would leave the ends of the box open.
- Added interfacing to most of this jacket. Stayed the shoulder seams using cotton twill tape.
- Bagged the lining out by machine.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
If I make another blazer for sure I will use this pattern. Yes, I recommend.
I have been seeing lots of ladies trouser suits in bright colours and now I am so tempted to make another in a bright colour, but I think this neutral one will give me lots of wardrobe options.
Memade trousers – Simplicity 1283.
Memade silk top – True Bias Sutton blouse.