McCalls 6172: DIY Grey Wool Suiting Blazer Trouser Suit

McCalls 6172 blazer in grey wool mix suiting. Worn with Simplicity 1283 matching suiting trousers and True Bias Sutton blouse.


I returned to work after a 5 year break a year ago (already?!) and realised I didn’t own a suit anymore. I bought around 7 metres of this wool/ viscose/ elastane suiting from Fabworks last year (sorry, all sold out now, but other options available on their website), and thought I would make a trouser suit with a dress or skirt option (still to be made). Trousers suits are trending at the moment in women’s fashion, so I am so pleased to have added these pieces to my wardrobe. You’ve already seen the trousers, and as a stand alone piece they have been great. Now I think I have found my favourite blazer pattern in McCalls 6172 (out of print, but still available to purchase from the McCalls website, I think?)

McCalls 6172 blazer in grey wool mix suiting

This pattern is a Palmer and Pletsch pattern, and it’s worth the price for the instructions alone. Not only are they the best instructions I have come across in terms of telling you how to sew a blazer with a notched lapel, but there is a wealth of fitting instruction included – as well as the lines marked on the pattern indicating where you should make adjustments such as a full bust adjustment or full arm adjustment. For me, the placement of these lines worked out brilliantly, and I highly, highly recommend.

McCalls 6172 blazer in grey wool mix suiting.

I particularly love that there is no princess seam in the front (but there is in the back) – instead there is a front dart which makes doing an FBA easy enough. I think this just looks more modern and RTW. I also love the fit through the shoulders (I have struggled with this using previous blazer patterns), and there is lots of interfacing through the jacket to provide lightweight support.

McCalls 6172 blazer in grey wool mix suiting
McCalls 6172 blazer in grey wool mix suiting

This pattern introduced a new-to-me method of making welt pockets which I am not 100% sure about, but maybe it’s a question of trying it again? The blazer is fully lined in an acetate satin twill, again from Fabworks, which makes this blazer lovely to wear.

McCalls 6172 blazer in grey wool mix suiting

Pattern Review 

Pattern Description: 

Close-fitting, partially interfaced, darted blazer with side panels have notched collar and two piece sleeve. A Above hip-length and single button closure. B Welt pockets, self-faced flaps, hip-length and two button closure. C Lined patch pockets, below hip-length and single button closure. Purchased top, pants and skirt. Optional purchased flower pin.


I made view B.

Pattern Sizing:

8 – 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?


Were the instructions easy to follow?

The instructions are exceptionally good. Full marks given for both the sewing instruction as well as the fitting instruction. The tissue pieces come marked with lines to show you where to cut to make pattern adjustments. These worked out brilliantly for me.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Love the instructions. Love the final fit. Love the dart in the front of the jacket as opposed to princess seams – makes a FBA easy but keeps the look more modern and RTW IMO. Love the fit through the shoulders. Wasn’t so sure about the welt pocket method but they turned out ok.

Fabric Used:

A wool/ viscose/ elastane blend.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • 1 inch full arm adjustment.
  • Shortened the sleeve by 3 inches (at least that’s what my notes tell me! Seems rather a lot?!)
  • Lengthened the jacket by 1 inch.
  • 0.5 inch full bust adjustment. I closed the bust dart and incorporated it into the vertical dart.
  • Shortened the vertical bust dart by 1 inch?
  • 0.5 inch sway back adjustment and added removed length back to lower hem.
  • Note to self – if following the included method to make the welt pockets – didn’t like the fact you sewed a closed box at step 6. Next time would leave the ends of the box open.
  • Added interfacing to most of this jacket. Stayed the shoulder seams using cotton twill tape.
  • Bagged the lining out by machine.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

If I make another blazer for sure I will use this pattern. Yes, I recommend.


I have been seeing lots of ladies trouser suits in bright colours and now I am so tempted to make another in a bright colour, but I think this neutral one will give me lots of wardrobe options.

Outfit details:

Memade trousers – Simplicity 1283.

Memade silk top – True Bias Sutton blouse.

McCalls 6172 blazer in grey wool mix suiting

Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at

17 thoughts on “McCalls 6172: DIY Grey Wool Suiting Blazer Trouser Suit

  1. Great job on the tailored jacket. I agree Palmer Pletsch have the best instructions ever to be included in a pattern. I met Pati once at a sewing show and she is a lovely lady, a perfectionist as you can tell from her patterns.

  2. Great Suit, Manju – Congratulations!
    Will keep this in mind if I ever decide I need a similar jacket, so thank you also for your first rate comments. They help us all so much when we’re thinking about about buying or making a pattern. 😘

  3. That is an outstanding suit—rivals high-end RTW, I’d say, though your fit is likely even better!

  4. Beautiful job on both pieces. I attended a Palmer Pletsch workshop in the early 80s right after they introduced the 8 Hour Blazer. Susan Pletsch gave the workshop and let me tell you that she brought along some of the most beautiful clothing to show us. There were suits and jackets from luxurious fabrics that we oood and ahd over! Anyway, after that I probably bought every PP pattern as it came out. I still make up the original pattern from time to time. You mentioned the welt instructions. This was some thing Susan Pletsch demonstrated way back then. I always do mine this way and find them pretty reliable. I haven’t made up this particular pattern yet, but after seeing your great results, I certainly will!

  5. Manju,
    once again you’ve knocked thte ball out of the park!

    I adore your Outfit, the Grey Colour is really chic and I love that you paired White Sneakers with it!

    I’m off to track down this pattern,


  6. Great job! So difficult to get a RTW suit that fits correctly. I’ve made up McCalls 6172 a couple of times and I agree it’s really good.

  7. what a great suit, perfect fit on that jacket. I have that pattern and keep wanting to make it. Probably not until autumn though. looks so crisp and sharp on you.

  8. How fantastic that you can make your own suit! You look amazing. I’ve never sewn a Palmer & Pletsch pattern before but I did go on a mini course showing how these patterns work. I really should get one – maybe not a blazer one just yet though 😀

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