Hey Friends,
Today is a quick share of my most recent make: a button down shirt dress made using Simplicity 8014. This is my second time making this shirt dress. You can see my first version here, made using an African wax print. This time round the main alteration I made was doing a 5/8ths inch FBA which made the whole dress fit so much better.
Here’s my first version. Yes, I know it looks much more eye catching, and it has been worn, but truthfully, it needed an FBA.
The fabric is a soft brushed plaid flannel that I bought from Paron Fabrics (no longer in existence? 😦 ) when I went to NYC a couple of summers ago. I am loving the soft, cosy feel. It’s perfect for casual dressing at this time of year.
Of course, sewing plaids means matching them. I like to cut my plaids in a single layer, and flip cut pieces over to get perfect corresponding pieces. I didn’t do too badly, and the fact there is no separate button band on this pattern meant the pattern matching was kept to a minimum. I cut the back yoke on the bias.
Fitting Notes:
- I did a 5/8ths inch full bust adjustment, which, being as there is no waist seam with this shirt dress, added the 5/8ths inch in all the way down to the hem. I ended up removing about 1 inch I think from the side seams from the hem up to just above the hip.
- I used the long sleeves included in the pattern and did a 1 inch full arm adjustment.
- I shortened the sleeves by 2.5 inches. This turned out to be a mistake. They are too short for my liking. I have added 2 inches back to the pattern for next time.
- I added tower plackets to the cuffs.
- As before, I disregarded the instructions and used my preferred methods to get a clean finish inside this shirt dress. This included cutting a double yoke (inner yoke cut on straight of grain for stability) and using the burrito method for a clean finish at the shoulder seams, flat felling all seams and using my preferred method to attach the collar.
- BTW I used the included hem facing to finish the dress and I really like the finish.
Overall, this is such a cute, easy to wear dress. I could see me making this again in a viscose print for the summer.
Have a great week ahead everyone!
sewmanju 
What a lovely dress, very season appropriate! The FBA made it a lot better.
I personally dislike plaid matching, but love these plaid dresses. Maybe I should overcome my plaid fear
Thanks Anne. I can’t say I love plaid matching or even pattern matching but it’s worth it in the end.
Very flattering dress. I love the changes you made. Sadly Paron Fabrics is out of business. They had great bargains and I also have a few lengths of fabric from them sitting in my stash. This looks like a perfect dress for a cold, damp day.
Thanks Mary. I have to say I have worn this dress quite a few times already. So cosy!
very nice, good plaid matching and your bust dart is almost imperceptible. Good for you.
Thanks Julie.
I love this version of this dress
on you the colors, fit & styling is great. You are fabulous at plaid matching too.
👍👍
Thanks Becca.
Great minds… : ). I am in the midst of making my second version of this pattern as well, also in a brushed plaid flannel. It’s really a great pattern, and I think it will be a kind of sloper for any future shirt dresses that I may make. The cut-on placket is a great feature, and IMO, makes it a bit more RTW looking than a separate placket (especially for plaids). I made similar alterations, but I also made the skirt a little straighter, which is just my preference. Your version looks great on you! Makes me want to get mine done now!
Thanks Jen. Hope yours is done and finished. I have been getting lots of wear out of mine so far.
Love this dress on you. I actually love this color on you better than the first one. You look great!
Thanks Mickey. I agree. I prefer this one too 🙂
Really nice! Looks so comfortable and versatile.
Thanks Kathy.
Just love the pattern matching. Am sure this is what makes this dress look so good. The yoke on the bias is also clever. Beautiful colours on you! Think you going to wear this more than once!
Thanks Janet. It has already been in heavy rotation. It is just so easy and cosy to wear.
What a fab dress, and the pattern matching is amazing! I love how the blue lines on the collar match up with the lines just below the shoulder seam! Also, your discription of the FBA gave me a bit of a light bulb moment. I’ve been trying to work out how to a do a FBA on the Sew Over It Ultimate Wrap Dress, as it doesn’t have a waist seam, and your way makes a lot of sense. So, thank you!!
Thanks Lynne. The collar matching was a complete fluke 🙂
I’m a sucker for a shirtdress, especially in plaid. You’ve answered one of my sewing puzzles: when you do a FBA on a dress without a waist seam you get the extra width all the way down the length of the dress. There’s really no way around this, is there? I note that you removed some extra space from the side seams. I’ll try that next time!
Thanks Rachel. Yep, I think you have to take the extra width all the way down and then remove it: no way around it. I didn’t want to do that, but the fit is really far superior than the first one so worth it.
The fit on this one is gorgeous, and your pattern matching is fantastic!
Thanks so much Julie.
Your post is very inspiring! I love the pattern choice and the fabrics you’ve used.
Question about the 5/8” FBA – all you did was add 5/8” to the side seam on front piece only?
No it’s more complicated than that. I recommend getting the book “fit for real people” which will show you how to do a FBA or google it and read up on it. It’s easy to do once you know how.