Hello Friends!
Today I am sharing my review of Vogue 8940 which I made for Philip as his Christmas present. I think getting it done within 3 weeks of Christmas is not a bad feat 🙂
Both the outer wool melton and the acetate satin twill lining came from Fabworks – both are beautiful quality and were perfect for this project. The melton is luxuriously soft but not overly bulky and cut, pressed and sewed like a dream.
The pattern itself is beautifully drafted, although there were a few things about the instructions I didn’t like. The pattern is rated as a Vogue “Advanced” pattern, and personally, I found it to be a fairly straight forward sew. But I would say it would probably help if you have some coat making/ notched lapel sewing experience. There are few things which make this particular pattern a little more challenging. First up, I made the shorter length, view A, which has a front panel which involves sewing a corner. That is a little tricky. Mine is not perfect, but is passable!
Second detail which makes this pattern more challenging – the inner welt pockets, of which there are two. This is the first place that the instructions fall down. Step 45 has you sew the pocket lining on top of the welts and sew a window to form the welt opening, so you can’t actually see what is happening underneath. I tried it this way initially, and it was awful. Fortunately, I had just enough fabric to re-cut the inner front facing piece and re-do it using the technique in my favourite tailoring book – much better.
Third challenging aspect of this pattern – the in-seam welt pockets, which have a little button tab behind them to keep the pocket closed. Not difficult per se, but there is a lot of stop and starting and connecting of topstitching lines – if these are not precise, your jacket front is going to look a hot mess. In fact, virtually every seam on this jacket is topstitched, so if that’s not your thing, keep away!
Finally, of course there is the notched lapel and collar. Love the shape of the collar BTW. Here again the instructions are not the best. Step 29 and step 63 of the instructions fail to tell you to press the upper/ under collar/ collar band seams open, which means you won’t be able to sew into the notch correctly. Still, I love the finished result.
Can you believe that I made zero changes to this pattern for Philip?! Ah the joy of being a man with less curves to worry about. Or is it just that women are more fussy? Either way, another coat made that I enjoyed working on – even if it wasn’t for me 🙂
Pattern Review
Pattern Description:
Semi-fitted, lined peacoat has double-breasted closure, notched collar, collar band, shoulder pads, back yoke, forward shoulder seams, side panels, no side seams, welt pockets (inside), button tab, back vent, and two-piece sleeves.
I made view A.
Pattern Sizing:
34 – 46
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I would say that you should not rely on the instructions too much. They are basically ok but with some caveats:
- The instructions for the welt pockets (specifically step 45) are no good. You are told to sew the pocket lining on top of the welts and sew a window to form the welt opening – as result, you can’t see what you are doing underneath and you will end up with a hot mess on your hands! I had enough fabric to re-cut my inner front and followed the technique in my tailoring book for a much better result.
- Step 29 and step 63 fail to tell you to press the upper/ under collar/ collar band seams open, which means you won’t be able to sew into the notch correctly.
- The instructions don’t tell you how to press the seams after installing the lining.
- The instructions for finishing the vent are not clear at all – mine is not how it should be but I just had to finish it the best I could as I had already trimmed some fabric down. I also don’t like how there seems to be about 1 cm of raw edge at the bottom of the inner front facings.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished coat, the shape of the collar and all the neat details like the button tab behind the welt pockets and the front panel of View A (even if it is a little tricky to sew). It is a beautifully drafted pattern. But you need some coat making experience to get a decent result.
See above for what I didn’t like! Oh and watch out because when you sew the button on for the welt pocket button tab, you are going to loose some of the pocket. My husband doesn’t have particularly big hands so it’s not much of an issue but something you might want to think about.
Fabric Used:
Navy wool melton outer and a bronze acetate satin twill lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Absolutely none! Aside from adding a back pleat to the lining. I also added extra interfacing at the sleeve cap and armscye and back hem. Note that almost every piece of this coat is interfaced, and almost every seam topstitched. Also, I omitted the button on the collar.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will not sew this again. My husband is a lucky man that I sewed this for him, lol. Yes, I recommend to other (experienced) coat makers.
Conclusion:
This is a classic, timeless pattern which will look stylish in any mans wardrobe. It’s a challenging sew but I enjoyed it. Hopefully Philip will enjoy wearing it too.
Back soon!
This is just beautiful! Thank you so much for Sharing these pattern reviews. They are fantastic. I just ordered that tailoring book! Not sure my husband will be getting one of these any time soon. Philip is definitely a blessed man!!
Thanks Lynn. The book is definitely one of my favourites.
Wow sewing goals right there! The fit looks great. You’ve encouraged me to get on with my gathered sleeves 😃
Thanks Supersuz!
This is so impressive! It looks like RTW. Great work
Thanks so much Abbey.
This looks perfect! Thanks for the sewing tips. Peacoats seem quite intimidating. Those inner welt pockets are gorgeous.
Thank you Justine.
Beautiful job. Kudos to your handsome husband too for rocking the GQ model job so well. My husband would have first of all refused to be photographed, or spent the whole time making silly faces and/or noises at me.
Thanks Elizabeth. Oh my family know: the payment for sewing is to do the modelling, lol.
Great job on the coat! I’m sure your husband loves his belated Christmas present!
Thanks Carolyn.
That looks amazing, so professional 🙂
Thanks Margaret!
You did a wonderful job – very professional!
Thanks Faye.
fantastic, looks so great on him. lots of nice details on that pattern.
Thanks Beth. It is a great pattern.
Beautiful work! I love looking at your creations. You are such an inspiration.
Thanks so much Coco.
Philip’s coat looks great! I am not so brave to take on a project like that, but it’s interesting to see the details. Thanks for the review!
Thanks JenL. I enjoyed making it actually: I think it’s made me look forward to tackling other advanced projects with special details.
This is lovely. What a great job you’ve done with this, and as Elizabeth said, you have an exceptionally well behaved husband !
Ha thanks Mumokio. He will be getting a big head soon, lol
Gorgeous coat! So well made – your husband is a lucky man 🙂
Thanks so much Kathleen.
Well done! I am particularly impressed with the pocket details. A labour of love I can see.
Thanks Julie. Any sewing for anyone else is always a labour of love in my book, lol.
This looks so good! I used the longer version of this pattern to make a coat for my dad, and I agree – the inside welt instructions are awful. The rest of the pattern is great though. Your details all look so precise! Such beautiful work.
Thanks so much Doctor T Designs!
It turned out so perfect! What an amazing gift!!!
Thanks Kisha!
Beautiful coat beautifully made, and it really suits your husband!
Thanks Heather.
This is so impressive!
Thanks so much Lori.
Wowsers!! This coat is amazing, I really love the welt pockets. They are perfection!
Thanks Lynne.
Lovely work. I’m sure he appreciates your labors. I’m sure it was frustrating to have bad directions for something as tricky as the welt pocket but thankfully you had another resource and more fabric.
Thanks so much Mary.
This looks great! Thanks for the detailed pattern review — these are the sorts of reviews that helped me a lot when I was starting out. Otherwise, newbies just think they’re doing it wrong!
Thanks Wastedmyweekends.
Lucky husband! Such a beautiful coat!
Thanks sewingbyletters
Thats really good, I haven’t made anything for my hubby yet (I’m a selfish seamstress ) but if I’d made that jacket I’d be very happy! Mens wear is tricky.
Thanks Jopix63….it was an enjoyable make overall, and less fitting issues than for myself.
That is a beautiful of jacket. Your stitching is superb! Well done!
Thanks Anna.