Today I am sharing my review of Vogue 8940 which I made for Philip as his Christmas present. I think getting it done within 3 weeks of Christmas is not a bad feat 🙂
Both the outer wool melton and the acetate satin twill lining came from Fabworks – both are beautiful quality and were perfect for this project. The melton is luxuriously soft but not overly bulky and cut, pressed and sewed like a dream.
The pattern itself is beautifully drafted, although there were a few things about the instructions I didn’t like. The pattern is rated as a Vogue “Advanced” pattern, and personally, I found it to be a fairly straight forward sew. But I would say it would probably help if you have some coat making/ notched lapel sewing experience. There are few things which make this particular pattern a little more challenging. First up, I made the shorter length, view A, which has a front panel which involves sewing a corner. That is a little tricky. Mine is not perfect, but is passable!
Second detail which makes this pattern more challenging – the inner welt pockets, of which there are two. This is the first place that the instructions fall down. Step 45 has you sew the pocket lining on top of the welts and sew a window to form the welt opening, so you can’t actually see what is happening underneath. I tried it this way initially, and it was awful. Fortunately, I had just enough fabric to re-cut the inner front facing piece and re-do it using the technique in my favourite tailoring book – much better.
Third challenging aspect of this pattern – the in-seam welt pockets, which have a little button tab behind them to keep the pocket closed. Not difficult per se, but there is a lot of stop and starting and connecting of topstitching lines – if these are not precise, your jacket front is going to look a hot mess. In fact, virtually every seam on this jacket is topstitched, so if that’s not your thing, keep away!
Finally, of course there is the notched lapel and collar. Love the shape of the collar BTW. Here again the instructions are not the best. Step 29 and step 63 of the instructions fail to tell you to press the upper/ under collar/ collar band seams open, which means you won’t be able to sew into the notch correctly. Still, I love the finished result.
Can you believe that I made zero changes to this pattern for Philip?! Ah the joy of being a man with less curves to worry about. Or is it just that women are more fussy? Either way, another coat made that I enjoyed working on – even if it wasn’t for me 🙂
Semi-fitted, lined peacoat has double-breasted closure, notched collar, collar band, shoulder pads, back yoke, forward shoulder seams, side panels, no side seams, welt pockets (inside), button tab, back vent, and two-piece sleeves.
I made view A.
34 – 46
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I would say that you should not rely on the instructions too much. They are basically ok but with some caveats:
- The instructions for the welt pockets (specifically step 45) are no good. You are told to sew the pocket lining on top of the welts and sew a window to form the welt opening – as result, you can’t see what you are doing underneath and you will end up with a hot mess on your hands! I had enough fabric to re-cut my inner front and followed the technique in my tailoring book for a much better result.
- Step 29 and step 63 fail to tell you to press the upper/ under collar/ collar band seams open, which means you won’t be able to sew into the notch correctly.
- The instructions don’t tell you how to press the seams after installing the lining.
- The instructions for finishing the vent are not clear at all – mine is not how it should be but I just had to finish it the best I could as I had already trimmed some fabric down. I also don’t like how there seems to be about 1 cm of raw edge at the bottom of the inner front facings.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished coat, the shape of the collar and all the neat details like the button tab behind the welt pockets and the front panel of View A (even if it is a little tricky to sew). It is a beautifully drafted pattern. But you need some coat making experience to get a decent result.
See above for what I didn’t like! Oh and watch out because when you sew the button on for the welt pocket button tab, you are going to loose some of the pocket. My husband doesn’t have particularly big hands so it’s not much of an issue but something you might want to think about.
Navy wool melton outer and a bronze acetate satin twill lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Absolutely none! Aside from adding a back pleat to the lining. I also added extra interfacing at the sleeve cap and armscye and back hem. Note that almost every piece of this coat is interfaced, and almost every seam topstitched. Also, I omitted the button on the collar.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will not sew this again. My husband is a lucky man that I sewed this for him, lol. Yes, I recommend to other (experienced) coat makers.
This is a classic, timeless pattern which will look stylish in any mans wardrobe. It’s a challenging sew but I enjoyed it. Hopefully Philip will enjoy wearing it too.