Named Clothing Talvikki Sweater: DIY Boiled Wool Sweater

 

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Named Clothing Talvikki Sweater in boiled wool worn with Vogue 1411 faux leather leggings

Hi Friends,

Still playing catch up  on makes from last year….there is this one and one more to come.

Anyway, this is the Talvikki Sweater by Named Clothing, made in a petrol blue boiled wool purchased locally to me. This is my first experience of sewing with this Finnish pattern company, and I am very pleased with the finished garment, although it did require some fitting adjustments.

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Named Clothing Talvikki Sweater in boiled wool worn with Vogue 1411 faux leather leggings

The back story to this particular garment is that I actually made an initial version to gift as a my office secret Santa gift. We have a £10 limit and as I already had the pattern all I had to purchase was some ponte knit. (We pick names out of a hat so we know who we are specifically buying for). You can see the initial version here on Instagram. Let me be clear, I wouldn’t make something for everyone I might get for my secret Santa, but this was for a good friend who I felt would appreciate it 🙂

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Named Clothing Talvikki Sweater in boiled wool

Anyway, getting to the point, for my friend, who is smaller than me, I decided to cut the size 12/ 14. But of course I couldn’t resist trying the finished garment on, and I decided that the 12/ 14 was the best size for me, with some modifications (which you can read about below). So take home point: this garment – which is designed to be oversized – runs large. I would probably have cut a size 16/ 18 for myself.

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Named Clothing Talvikki Sweater in boiled wool worn with Vogue 1411 faux leather leggings
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Named Clothing Talvikki Sweater in boiled wool

Can I take a moment to talk about the faux leather leggings I am wearing with the sweater? It’s my version of Vogue 1411, which you can read about here. Now, I really like these leggings and have worn them a few times, but I am not happy with the fit: I think they need to be slimmed down overall (I had to remove a fair bit of fabric when constructing them), but the main thing that is bugging me is the line of fabric above the back of the knees, which you can see in the photograph above. Any fit experts care to comment? Do you think I actually need a full calf adjustment? Would that release the fabric? Or do I need to shorten the length above the knees? I would like to make these again and improve the fit…

BTW, before anyone asks, I am absolutely fine wearing wool next to my skin so I don’t have any problems wearing this sweater (although I would probably always wear a vest or a shirt under it). But if you have issues with wool then maybe make it in a sweatshirting fabric, fleece or ponte knit instead?

Pattern Review

Pattern Description: 

  • Oversized and cuddly sweater
  • Turtleneck with darts on the neckline
  • Dropped shoulder and extra long sleeves
  • Deep vents at the sides, and an uneven hemline

Pattern Sizing:

UK 4 – 6 to 20/22

Pattern sizing is generous: I probably should have cut a size 16/ 18 but ended up cutting a size 12/ 14 through the shoulders/ bust (with modifications – see below), and graded out to a size 16/18 below the waist.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, they are ok, but I was personally a little disappointed that given one of the recommended fabrics for this pattern is boiled wool that the instructions just talk about using an overlocker. I chose to press all my seams open and topstitch them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I am really happy with the fit and finished garment: it looks very contemporary and stylish. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used:

Boiled wool with stretch.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I cut a size 12/ 14 through the bust and shoulders
  • I raised the bust level by taking out 1.5 inches 1 inch below the armhole notch, using this tutorial on the wasted weekends blog
  • I did a 0.5 inch full bust adjustment using the Jennifer Lauren tutorial for a dartless FBA on knits 
  • I lengthened the pattern above the waist by 2 inches, which brought the vent position down by 2 inches
  • I graded out below the waist to a size 16/ 18
  • I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment and added the removed length back to the lower hem

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I don’t know if I need another one of these in my wardrobe, but yes, I do recommend.

Conclusion: 

A very stylish way to keep warm.

Until soon…

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Named Clothing Talvikki Sweater in boiled wool worn with Vogue 1411 faux leather leggings

 

 

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Posted by

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

8 thoughts on “Named Clothing Talvikki Sweater: DIY Boiled Wool Sweater

  1. Hi Manju and Happy New Year! I love the funnel neck sweater. Very stylish and looks cozy and warm for winter weather. I thought the leggings look good from the front but continued reading and agree with you that, from the back, some fitting tweaks might help. I’m glad you referred to your previous post about the leggings as the intricate seaming doesn’t show well in black fabric. It looks to me like adding a small amount for full calves would help but there looks like too much length between the knee and crotch. The diagonal seaming does make alterations in length more complex. I would try making a test pair in a light colored knit with similar stretch to what you would use for a finished pant. Try making several small pleats until you get a perfect fit. Disassemble the pant and recut. Making several smaller tucks as opposed to a single larger one will help smooth out the diagonal seams. I put this legging pattern on my list of projects. I hadn’t noticed it before and love the seaming detail. Thanks for the tip about sizing. I will definitely make a test version before cutting expensive fabric.

    1. HI Mary. Thanks so much for the fitting tips. I am going to try them out and will report back. Fortunately this faux leather wasn’t too expensive so I am quite happy to have another go at them and hopefully have a better fitting pair.

  2. I really love the top and it looks great on you! Beautiful color too!

    As for the leggings, it’s hard to say without knowing how stretchy the fabric is. But–my tendency would be to make them tighter where that is feasible. However, on the back, it looks like there is too much fabric on the upper back inner leg seam and under the rear (which is why there are horizontal folds there too). I would shorten the back inner leg seam only and/or consider doing a fish-eye fitting dart under the rear on a future pattern. The pattern for the back leg will be a little shorter than the front leg side. Then, slightly stretch the (shorter) back leg seam near the crotch when sewing — it sort of “snugs” up the rear. It also looks like there is either not quite enough length around the inner back knee. So (for future pattern again) you might want to add a little length at the knee inner seam so that it drops down a bit and the hem hangs horizontally. Personally, I would also tend to make the upper knee a little smaller, to get an overall to get a tighter fit, rather than a calf adjustment. That could be done on this existing pair too. Just depends on the look you ultimately want.

    Great outfit though–I really like it all together!

  3. Lovely version of the popular Named sweater – the smaller size looks great. It is on deck in my sewing queue, and I really appreciate your tips and fit suggestions. I may cut a size smaller if all finished garment measurements seem okay.

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