Butterick 6384: DIY Red Mohair Wool Robe Wrap Belted Coat

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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar

Hello Friends,

Today I want to share my most recent make with you: Butterick 6384, made in the most delicious heavy, warm, luxurious all wool/ mohair coating purchased from Fabworks. I just love how warm and cosy this coat is. Actually, I purchased this fabric using some money I was gifted with for my birthday last year, so I am extra pleased to have got this sewn up before our winter really sets in (and before my birthday in a couple of weeks).

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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar
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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar
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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar

The lining is an acetate satin lining, purchased from The Lining Company. Never used them before, but I recommend. Fast delivery and good quality lining.

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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar
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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar

In case you’re wondering what the coat looks like without a belt, here you go. I think I might wear it either way…I like both looks.

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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar

Here it is unfastened…

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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar

The next few photographs were just taken on my iphone, but I am including them because I think they show the texture of the wool and the seaming detail better, and there are some in progress internal structure shots. BTW, no filters have been used for any of these photographs. This is not a colour for the feint hearted!

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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar
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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar
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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar – shoulder reinforcement cut from hair canvas
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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar – back stay and shoulder pads
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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar – shoulder reinforcement and shoulder pads

I am entering this coat in the Pattern Review Wool Coat Contest – there is some pretty stiff competition so head over to check out all the entries.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description: 

Lined, loose-fitting coat has front extending into shawl collar and two-piece sleeve. A, B: Purchased fringe. B: Snap closure. C: Self-belt and contrast bands. D: Purchased binding.

I essentially made view C, but without the contrast bands.

Pattern Sizing:

Size 4 – 26

For reference, with Big 4 patterns, I would normally cut a size 18 through the shoulders, arms and bust and grade out a size or even two over the waist/ hips as needed. With this particular coat I cut straight size L (16-18) with minor additions to some seam allowances (see below for more details).

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Kind of. Yes. Mine doesn’t have the contrast bands or fringing.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Hmmm, I didn’t really follow them as I have my own particular methods I like to use when tailoring a coat. At quick glance they seemed “ok”.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Well, I just love the finished coat. It’s something completely different for me, and a style (and colour) I don’t have in my (coat) wardrobe. I love the fact it looks good belted or unbelted, and I love the dramatic statement collar. There are only 6 pieces to cut for the outer of this coat, which makes it less daunting for newbies. I like the shaping in the back.

The one thing I was a little disappointed in was that, surprisingly, finished garment measurements did not seem to be provided for the main body of the coat (although they were for the sleeves). Having the finished measurements would have been useful in selecting the most appropriate size. Also, watch out for the lower pocket markings – they seemed a little off to me.

Fabric Used:

The outer fabric is an all wool/ mohair coating. It is described on the Fabworks website as a knitted coating. I found it stable and very easy to work with.

The inner lining is an acetate satin.

I used a fusible knit interfacing to interface the entire body of the coat, and the hems and cap/ armscye of the sleeves.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

My changes were largely to do with extra tailoring steps that I chose to incorporate:

  • As mentioned above I cut a straight size L (16 – 18) but added 3/8ths inch to the side seams at the waist and hips and ended up letting the side back princess seams out from the waist downwards by 3/8ths inch.
  • With hindsight I perhaps should have perhaps made a 0.5 inch small shoulder adjustment?
  • I adjusted for turn of cloth at the collar, and removed 0.25 inch from the undercollar and down to the bottom of the roll line.
  • I added a backstay cut from muslin.
  • I added shoulder reinforcement cut from hair canvas.
  • I added a pleat to the back lining.
  • I made my own custom shoulder pads.
  • I interfaced the entire body of the coat, and the hems and caps and armscyes of the sleeves.
  • I added belt loops.
  • I bagged the lining out by machine.

Tip: I followed a “with nap” layout when I cut this fabric out. This fabric has a kind of pile, so I cut all my pieces so that they felt smooth when I brushed them downwards.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I don’t know if I would sew again, simply because it’s such a distinctive style. Saying that, I think a sleeveless version might be cute…? Yes, I highly recommend.

Conclusion: 

I think we are all guilty of declaring our latest completed sewing project as our all time favourite. But seriously, I am in love with the colour of this coat, the feel of the wool (so luxurious and warm!) and I just love the drama this coat brings. Every year my daughter’s christmas carol service is held in the school chapel which is cold and draughty. All the mums rock up in their best outerwear, and this year, I will be secretly snug, smug and full of festive cheer. Ho ho ho 🙂

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Butterick 6384 red mohair wool robe coat with shawl collar

Photo credit: Kezia – thanks for doing a brilliant job for mummy.

 

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Posted by

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

46 thoughts on “Butterick 6384: DIY Red Mohair Wool Robe Wrap Belted Coat

  1. Love your coat! Looks so luxurious and elegant. I have a question: the black in the coat is fusible interfacing? If so, why did you interface the whole coat? Pardon my ignorance, but I could not resist wondering.

    1. If I had been working with a heavier weight coating I would not have interfaced the whole coat but actually this fabric is not that heavyweight and it is also a “knitted” fabric, so I was worried it might stretch out whilst sewing and wearing. The interfacing just added some stability and support and made the sewing easier I think.

      1. I’m about to make my first wool coat and it’s not as cozy and heavy as your fabric looks to be. Should I add an under layer of flannel to it? Maybe instead of fusible interfacing? I’m terrified to mess up my beautiful fabric.

      2. Depends on what your fabric is: I have added a flannel underlining to other coats but chose to fully interface this coat, not for warmth, but support inside.

  2. Just beautiful, you will look stunning whenever you wear it with pride. Nearly into summer here, but I can still enjoy looking. Sam the Aussie

  3. You look a million dollars! So interesting to see all the tailoring details on the coat, thanks for taking the time to share. You are a real inspiration.

  4. I read you review last night, the coat is fabulous and the colour looks great on you. I was wondering about your shoulder reinforcement – is it zigzagged so it doesn’t fray, or did you stitch it to the interfacing before fusing?

    1. Hi, Thanks, and sorry we didn’t get to meet at Sew Brum (I saw you from a distance). Yep, I stitched the canvas to the interfacing using the zip zag stitching before fusing.

  5. It’s really fabulous Manju! The colour is amazing and suits you so well. Thanks for showing the insides, I’m like you when I make a coat and use my own methods, using similar interfacings etc. By the way, I’ve used The Lining Company too, they have an amazing selection of linings, can highly recommend as well.

  6. wow that coat looks fantastic on you. LOVE the color and it is so perfect to cheer up a winter day. You are ready for the holidays. great construction details, I appreciate all the work that goes into a coat like that but you will wear it for years.

  7. I am 1,000% in love with this coat and really enjoyed watching your progress on Instagram. It’s so beautiful. The color just pops on you. I really like that it looks good belted and not belted too.

  8. You deserve to be smug because this coat is SO gorgeous! You always look smashing in saturated colors and this shade just pops with your skin tone. Love love love!

  9. This is stunning and that red color (my fave!!) is To. Die.For. I was so happy to see all the interior construction detailing. Sometimes I feel like people don’t take the time to use those types of methods anymore !

    1. Thanks so much Triggsey. I do like Red. A lot. But I feel like this year I have made a statement red coat and a red dress. So maybe leave off the red for a little while 🙂

  10. Your coat is all kinds of fabulous!! I absolutely love it, and the colour is gorgeous. Thanks for the construction photos and details, I love seeing/reading these details, and I think Kezia may have got herself a job – your photos are great!

  11. That’s a triumph Manju, the colour is fabulous on you. Thanks for including the tailoring shots. I was really sorry to miss you at SewBrum. I glimpsed you from a taxi outside Barry’s but we obviously weren’t at the same stops at the same time. Another time I hope

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