Today I want to share my most recent make with you: Butterick 6384, made in the most delicious heavy, warm, luxurious all wool/ mohair coating purchased from Fabworks. I just love how warm and cosy this coat is. Actually, I purchased this fabric using some money I was gifted with for my birthday last year, so I am extra pleased to have got this sewn up before our winter really sets in (and before my birthday in a couple of weeks).
The lining is an acetate satin lining, purchased from The Lining Company. Never used them before, but I recommend. Fast delivery and good quality lining.
In case you’re wondering what the coat looks like without a belt, here you go. I think I might wear it either way…I like both looks.
Here it is unfastened…
The next few photographs were just taken on my iphone, but I am including them because I think they show the texture of the wool and the seaming detail better, and there are some in progress internal structure shots. BTW, no filters have been used for any of these photographs. This is not a colour for the feint hearted!
I am entering this coat in the Pattern Review Wool Coat Contest – there is some pretty stiff competition so head over to check out all the entries.
Lined, loose-fitting coat has front extending into shawl collar and two-piece sleeve. A, B: Purchased fringe. B: Snap closure. C: Self-belt and contrast bands. D: Purchased binding.
I essentially made view C, but without the contrast bands.
Size 4 – 26
For reference, with Big 4 patterns, I would normally cut a size 18 through the shoulders, arms and bust and grade out a size or even two over the waist/ hips as needed. With this particular coat I cut straight size L (16-18) with minor additions to some seam allowances (see below for more details).
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Kind of. Yes. Mine doesn’t have the contrast bands or fringing.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Hmmm, I didn’t really follow them as I have my own particular methods I like to use when tailoring a coat. At quick glance they seemed “ok”.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Well, I just love the finished coat. It’s something completely different for me, and a style (and colour) I don’t have in my (coat) wardrobe. I love the fact it looks good belted or unbelted, and I love the dramatic statement collar. There are only 6 pieces to cut for the outer of this coat, which makes it less daunting for newbies. I like the shaping in the back.
The one thing I was a little disappointed in was that, surprisingly, finished garment measurements did not seem to be provided for the main body of the coat (although they were for the sleeves). Having the finished measurements would have been useful in selecting the most appropriate size. Also, watch out for the lower pocket markings – they seemed a little off to me.
The outer fabric is an all wool/ mohair coating. It is described on the Fabworks website as a knitted coating. I found it stable and very easy to work with.
The inner lining is an acetate satin.
I used a fusible knit interfacing to interface the entire body of the coat, and the hems and cap/ armscye of the sleeves.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
My changes were largely to do with extra tailoring steps that I chose to incorporate:
- As mentioned above I cut a straight size L (16 – 18) but added 3/8ths inch to the side seams at the waist and hips and ended up letting the side back princess seams out from the waist downwards by 3/8ths inch.
- With hindsight I perhaps should have perhaps made a 0.5 inch small shoulder adjustment?
- I adjusted for turn of cloth at the collar, and removed 0.25 inch from the undercollar and down to the bottom of the roll line.
- I added a backstay cut from muslin.
- I added shoulder reinforcement cut from hair canvas.
- I added a pleat to the back lining.
- I made my own custom shoulder pads.
- I interfaced the entire body of the coat, and the hems and caps and armscyes of the sleeves.
- I added belt loops.
- I bagged the lining out by machine.
Tip: I followed a “with nap” layout when I cut this fabric out. This fabric has a kind of pile, so I cut all my pieces so that they felt smooth when I brushed them downwards.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t know if I would sew again, simply because it’s such a distinctive style. Saying that, I think a sleeveless version might be cute…? Yes, I highly recommend.
I think we are all guilty of declaring our latest completed sewing project as our all time favourite. But seriously, I am in love with the colour of this coat, the feel of the wool (so luxurious and warm!) and I just love the drama this coat brings. Every year my daughter’s christmas carol service is held in the school chapel which is cold and draughty. All the mums rock up in their best outerwear, and this year, I will be secretly snug, smug and full of festive cheer. Ho ho ho 🙂
Photo credit: Kezia – thanks for doing a brilliant job for mummy.