Friends,
Pink is having a moment in the fashion world apparently, and so I found some cheap pink bengaline online to make a wearable muslin of Butterick 6331 (remember, I made the trench from this pattern a few weeks back?)
As ever, full review below, but overall I like these. This trouser pattern is a useful one to have in the stash because it is intended for woven, non-stretch fabrics and is an easy sew. It has a back yoke (so essentially it is a basic jeans pattern), front pockets and tapered legs. In fact, I have already made these again in a white denim as a boyfriend style jeans (you can see a sneak peak here on Instagram). Here’s the dreaded back view:
There are some diagonal lines under the bottom: I am no pants fitting expert but I have removed a tiny bit of width from the inner back leg and scooped a tiny bit out of the back crotch for next time (any experts please chime in!)
Pattern Review
Pattern Description:
Loose-fitting, unlined, double-breasted jacket has notched collar, side-front seams and pockets, belt loops, back button shield, elasticized back casing, tie ends, stitched hems, two-piece, rolled raglan sleeves (wrong side shows). A: Below elbow sleeves and button tabs. Semi-fitted, tapered pants (slightly below waist) have waistband, belt loops, side-front pockets, yoke back, and mock-fly zipper. C: Cropped.
I made view D.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that the pattern is intended for non-stretch woven fabrics and is essentially a jeans pattern, with a back yoke, pockets and tapered legs. Nothing to dislike, although I will add a fly shield next time round.
Fabric Used:
A pink bengaline which actually has lengthwise stretch. I stitched the crotch seam using my stretch stitch to prevent any stitching from popping.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- 2.75 inch full butt adjustment.
- Removed 1 inch in length from above the knee.
- Changed the straight waistband to a contoured waistband and interfaced both sides.
- Interfaced zipper area.
- Slimmed leg seams down slightly once sewn by removing 0.5 inch from the side front and back seams below the knee.
- Removed 3 inches from the length.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Really, this was a wearable muslin and I have already sewn this up again as boyfriend style white denim jeans. Review coming soon! Yes I recommend.
Conclusion:
Quick to make and very easy to wear. I like the smart, casualness of them and the fact they are a different silhouette for me, and not another pair of skinny jeans!
I seem to be a on a jeans sewing kick at the moment (just finished a pair of ginger jeans which I love!) hope your sewing is going well.
Until soon.
sewmanju 
I’m no pants fitting expert either, I’m still working on learning how to release wrinkles, adjusting crouch curves and shorting my front crouch area. I think you pants look good. Looks like removing that 1″ at the knee made the pants hang smoothly from the knee down. I need to work on that area as well.
Thanks Faye.
These are really cute pants on you. I particularly like the taper of the legs–looks really nice.
I’m not a fit expert, but I’ve played around with pants for awhile. I’ll just mention it because I’ve had a similar issue… IMO the upper back inner leg seam is too long, and that’s why you see the folded fabric there. Maybe visualize what would happen if you took a dart out there. I have fixed this on myself by taking a wedge out of the pattern upper inner leg seam – on the back only – maybe about 2 inches down from the crotch seam. Then, when you sew the front and back legs together, start at the hem and sew towards the crotch. When you get to the last 6 inches (around where you took the wedge out of the pattern), gently stretch the back leg to fit to the front leg. If you look at instructions for vintage pants, especially men’s, this is a common way of sewing the legs. It draws the back upper leg in towards to front, i.e., it snugs up the back leg. Since this process removes some fabric, you might find that you need to add a little length to the lower CB seam too. By the way, I have found that shortening the back leg inner seam like this helps to prevent the dreaded inner thigh ride-up on straight-leg shorts. At least it helps for me! Thanks for sharing — I really enjoy your blog!
Thanks Jen. Lots to think about there! I have heard of stretching the back leg to fit: something I will look into more.
Hi Manju, the trousers look great! Lovely colour and fit. Your plan to refine the slight wrinkling at the back sounds spot on to me 🙂
Thanks Diane!
I am no expert but it looks as if you need just a wee bit more back crotch length to remove those wrinkles. Perhaps take 3/8″ from the front crotch and transfer it to the back, so that you don’t lengthen the overall crotch curve?
Thanks Julie: that’s pretty much what I have done on the (already sewn!) next pair and I think they are better.
As they all say above, I’m not expert … but I was told that if I brought my side seam down slightly at the waist band then I wouldn’t have those wrinkles. My crotch seams were fine. It worked for me but then we are all unique! (All unique, as it should be!)
Thanks Linda
Here’s a nice site with some diagrams and common problems with crotches.
https://closetcasepatterns.com/14-common-jeans-pants-fitting-adjustments/
Thanks Julie!
They look really good, and as you say are a nice change from skinny jeans. I’m living in my skinny jeans right now and am desperate for something different, I might check this pattern out. I second Julie Culshaw’s recommendation of the Closet Case Patterns jeans fitting adjustments, I’ve used it recently and the things I tried made a great deal of difference.
Thanks Sam, yep, that guide is great but, you know, fitting pants is like black magic! 🙂
I’m not a pant fitting expert either (but am obsessed with fitting in general) and it seems to me that you need more room in your inner thigh. I would try adding fabric to the inner thigh and removing a similar about from the outer thigh to maintain the width of the leg in general.
I enjoy reading your posts and looking at all the beautiful sewing you do.
Thanks Joanne!
The pink looks so ready for spring and warmer weather. It’s hard to judge fit from photos but you might try the following: deepen the back crotch curve and add to the back inseam from mid-thigh up to the crotch point. It also looks like there is excess fabric in the front between the crotch and waist. Is your front waist lower than the back? You are right that these adjustments need to be made in small increments. The Closet Case reference is a good one and makes the point of not obsessing over every tiny wrinkle. Your pink pants are very wearable.
Thanks Mary as ever for your valuable input. I have already made these up again and did as you suggested: deepened the back crotch curve and added to the back inseam and I think they do look better. No, the front waist is not lower than the back. I think the next pair are better in that area. Yep. I agree, we shouldn’t obssess over every wrinkle: womens bodies have curves are are not (thankfully!) straight and flat.
These pants look great on you! Other posters here have left some really valuable information so I have nothing to add. My problem is the opposite where I have a flat derriere and too much fabric. Pants are such a puzzle when it comes to fit!
Thanks Tomasa. I agree, pant fitting is a whole art unto itself. But, the joy of having pants fit 100% better than RTW is still wonderful.
Love the pink pants…very summery and looks good. For the back wrinkles I suggest to read pg 14 from Closet case patterns :15 common fit adjustments.
Good luck!
Thanks Carlalissa!