Hello Dear Readers,
Life has been busy and it’s taken me longer than I would have liked to have blogged. But here I am back today, sharing my most recent makes: a red wool crepe dress I made for myself and a pair of jeans I made for Philip, both for Valentines day.
Let’s talk about my dress first! This was made using a Plus Size Burdastyle pattern 08/2016#131. This is my first Burdastyle dress. I really didn’t know where I would be in terms of fit with this pattern, so I made a muslin (long time readers of this blog will know how much I dislike making muslins!). Anywho. Thanks to Instagram friends (who helped an awful lot with this dress), I learned that Burdastyle Plus Size patterns are apparently drafted for a D cup. Who would have thought? I refer you to this post from the Curvy Sewing Collective which is a great resource for plus size sewists. Long story short, I didn’t do an FBA on this dress, and the fit through the bust is good. In fact, I did minimal adjustments – you can find the full details in my review below.
The fashion fabric is a wool mix crepe. When I made my muslin I felt it would benefit from some extra width through the hips and I added some extra to the seam allowances. But this fabric behaved quite differently to the muslin fabric and I ended up removing any extra I had added in. The dress is unlined, and in an effort to make the insides feel special I made around 18 metres of bias binding from left over viscose lining and used it to bind every seam using the hong kong method of seam finishing. Time consuming but worth it I think.
You just get to see a cheeky peek of the gold binding at the back vent slit.
Over on Instagram there was quite a discussion as to what might be causing the diagonal wrinkles through the forearms of the sleeves. THANK YOU to everyone who took the time to comment on that post and offer up suggestions. Sheryll (who authors the amazing blog Pattern, Scissors, Cloth), offered up what I thought sounded the most promising solution: she thought the sleeve head was too short, and the way to fix it was to lower the underarm of the sleeve only to balance things out so that the bicep line becomes horizontal. Well, I tried pinning some fabric out of the underarm of the sleeve only, and…it didn’t seem to work. So…the next approach was try and slim the sleeve down (I had, of course, already bound all the edges by this point – thank you Amanda who suggested looking at that). Well…that’s what I ended up doing: I ended up removing approx 1.5 inches of width from the sleeves. It is better. I can live with it…but if I made this dress again I would try and figure out what was going on a bit better.
A sheath style dress. The inlaid pleats and the attached tying band give definition at the waist, while smoothing over any extra padding in the area. Darts in the elbow add extra shape to the sleeves.
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Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Not really. This is burdastyle. I think the first part of the instructions are missing. I didn’t understand how they wanted you to do the vent, so I did my own thing. Saying that, everything worked out ok in the end. It’s probably worth making a muslin so you can understand what they want you to do – particularly in reference to the pleating at the waist.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished dress with the asymmetric waist pleating and the tie which comes around the back and ties in front. I love that Burdastyle patterns are apparently drafted for a D cup – I didn’t have to do an FBA on this dress. In fact, minimal alterations were required. There are some diagonal lines in the forearm of the sleeve – most of these seemed to come out when I tightened the sleeve up. I would need to investigate this further if making this dress again.
Wool mix crepe. This dress is unlined so I made around 18 metres of bias binding using left over viscose lining fabric and used a hong kong technique to finish every seam.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- 0.5 inch sway back adjustment.
- Shortened skirt length by 3/8ths inch
- Shortened sleeve by 1 inch
- 1 inch full arm adjustment (turned out this was probably unnecessary – at least in the wool crepe – as I ended up narrowning the sleeves by approx. 1.5 inches)
- Interfaced zipper openings and hems.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t know if I would make another of these, but it’s a great pattern. I recommend.
I love this modern classic style. I think this dress could take me to many places.
Now, a brief mention of the jeans. I first made these back towards the end of 2015 for Philip. The main alterations to these jeans were to shorten the rise by two inches, slim the legs down, add interfacing to the waistband, remove approx. 5/8ths inch from the waist either side, front and back, and narrow the hips down. Here they are being modelled – the fabric is a lightweight denim purchased I think from Mandors in Glasgow.
I also added some valentines day appropriate embroidery to the inner waistband and made some bias binding to bind the waistband.
Now, I expect you are all dying to know what my husband’s thoughts were on the dress and the jeans. Well, he liked the improved fit on the jeans. But the dress…hmmm…in his (paraphrased) words…the dress is not tight enough or low cut enough. LOL. I have said it before, and say it again, husband, you stick to cutting up and sewing patients together and I will stick to cutting up and sewing fabric to make things that please me to wear. We had a lovely lunchtime valentines day date. Hope you enjoyed the week and have a great week ahead.
Bye for now!