Today I am sharing my latest make with you, a new style for me, what I am calling boyfriend style chino trousers/ pants, made using Simplicity 1167 (another Mimi G Style pattern).
I have been wanting to get away from wearing skinny jeans/ jeggings as much as I do. It has been a verrrrry long time since I wore proper trousers (like maybe more than 4 years!) Since I gave up working I don’t feel the need to wear smart trousers on a daily basis. But this here is my first foray into sewing “proper trousers”.
Let’s talk about how my trousers compare to the picture on the pattern envelope shall we?
The ones on the pattern envelope look like they are made from ponte knit (the fabric recommendations for this pattern are stretch wovens only), and they are very fitted. The side seam looks skewed forward to me, almost as if the trousers were taken in along the side seams to get a closer fit? I didn’t want such a close fit, but what I will say is that I ended up having to remove a total of 2 inches from the outer seams of my version and they are still no where near as fitted as the pattern envelope ones are. Just saying. BTW, mine are made up in a stretch cotton sateen.
The main adjustments that I made to this pattern were to do a full butt adjustment and to curve my waistband more to account for my swayback and eliminate a huge amount of waistband gaping. To do the full butt adjustment I used a combination of the tutorials from By Hand London and Colette Patterns. This raised the back height up by 1.25 inches. I would say that these are a mid rise trouser, and this is something I need to get used to again (lately I have been all about the high rise). This is a picture of my adjusted pattern – sorry the adjustment is not that obvious to see.
Heather describes how to curve a waistband here. From the picture below you might just be able to see I ended up making 4 “hinges” in the upper waistband, overlapping each hinge by 0.5 inches to effectively remove a total of 2 inches from my upper waistband. The blue waistband underneath is the original left waistband I cut which I ended up discarding and re-cutting using the modified pattern piece. (I did the same on the RHS waistband so I removed a total of 4 inches from the upper waistband in all).
Here’s a back view – note that I added welt pockets using this amazing tutorial from Nicole at home which also provides downloadable pattern pieces. This is the first time I have done welt pockets and whilst they are perfectly secure and functioning, let’s just say there is certainly room for improvement. Also, can I just say that no matter how many times I post a back view of a garment it never becomes any easier for me to see that view! But, you know, because I want you to see a complete view of the garment I do it.
As ever, full review below. I had these trousers on all day yesterday and love the ease and comfort of wearing them, and combined with the smart fabric I think they tick that smart casual look I strive for on a daily basis. I think they will look better with slightly shorter tops than the ones I would typically wear with my skinny jeans though, which means sewing some new tops – if I really think this new trouser shape is a keeper. I do have another length of khaki/ olive stretch sateen. I am tempted now I have got these to fit to make a second pair, perhaps slightly longer. Do you think I should slim them down some, or should I just try another pattern?
Mimi G Style sportswear pattern for Misses includes great jacket, slim pants or shorts with fly-front and carriers in stretch wovens, and knit tank top.
I made view B.
6 – 24
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Mmmm…I would say mine look more relaxed fit.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I do like the finished trousers very much. They are very easy to sew. Separate pieces are included in the pattern envelope for view C (the shorts), and you are not just expected to shorten view B (the trousers), which I thought was a nice touch. The pattern includes facing pieces for the pocket to cut down on bulk which I thought was a great idea. The zipper instructions were good.
I think the pattern picture is slightly misleading. In the pattern picture the side leg seam looks skewed forward almost as if the seam has been taken in IMO to achieve the closer fit. I ended up removing a total of 2 inches from the outer seam of my version and they are still no where near as fitted as the pattern envelope. I am undecided whether to slim my legs down further or not.
Stretch cotton sateen
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I did a full butt adjustment which added 1.25 inches to the back height.
I added 5/8ths inch to the height of the left and right waistband.
I curved my waistband to account for my swayback, removing a total of 2 inches from the left and 2 inches from the right hand side waistband.
I removed a total of 2 inches from the outer seam of my trousers, and have already adjusted the pattern to remove 0.5 inches from the inner and outer seam of both front and back legs next time.
Added back welt pockets.
I ended up cutting too much off my trouser legs! So I added cuffs to the bottom because I wanted the cuffed look.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Now that I have got the fit I think I should sew them again. But things I need to think about:
- Should I slim the legs down further?
- Can I get used to the mid rise?
- Do I need to sew some tops to go with these trousers which are not as long as those I tend to wear with my skinny jeans?
I recommend in that these are an easy sew with great results but, as with any trouser/ pants pattern, be prepared to spend time perfecting the fit!
I love this version because they are so comfortable and yet still look smart.
Now that I have got this pattern to fit I would like to make a second pair (I have a length of khaki/olive stretch cotton sateen in my stash, and I am thinking a slightly longer pair, perhaps minus the cuffs), but I think I will wear these a couple more times before I decide.
What do you think? See you soon!