Hi Everyone,
Today I want to share a dress I actually made a little while back: the new Doris dress by Sew Over It. This dress was made to appear in Issue 6 of Sewing Made Simple and I was compensated for the time spent making this dress, as well as very kindly being provided with the fabric (from Minerva Crafts) and the pattern from Sew Over It.
The fabric is a wonderfully lightweight viscose with a gorgeous tropical print on it. It has a great drape and it didn’t require lining. Perfect fabric for this pattern, with it’s cut on sleeves and panelled skirt. Unfortunately I think this fabric has since sold out, but there are tons of other viscose fabrics to choose from on the Minerva site.
The Doris dress itself is a very feminine shape, with a scoop-necked bodice, grown-on sleeves and a 7 panelled fluted skirt. This dress is perfect for summer wear with its body skimming shape, and attached ties (in the version I sewed), means you can get the perfect flattering fit.
There is a sewalong already up on the Sew Over It website, but I am not sure if they covered alteration of the bodice. In my case I had to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) and, as ever, referred to Fit for Real People by Palmer and Alto. Here’s a picture to show you how I essentially did the adjustment, and there are a few more details provided in the review below:
Pattern Review
Pattern Description:
The Doris Dress is the perfect summer’s day dress. Feminine and romantic, throw it on and you’ll be set for that picnic in the park, day out at the beach, or hey, even a stint at the office. A truly versatile wardrobe staple, the Doris Dress will keep you looking elegant and put-together no matter what you get up to this season.
Features:
- Semi-fitted shape
- Flattering scooped neck bodice
- Bust pleats
- Grown-on sleeves
- Attached ties which can be used to adjust the waist fit somewhat or fixed back belt option
- Fluted seven panel skirt in two different length variations
- Closes with concealed zip in side seam (has optional buttonhole closure at centre front)
- Finished with facings inside
I made version 1 (with the ties).
Pattern Sizing:
UK sizes 8 – 20
The bodice is designed to be quite close fitting, with only 1 inch of positive ease included in the finished bodice.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, they were. I chose not to finish the edges prior to sewing as I think you run the risk of stretching and distorting edges and I also chose the insert the side invisible zip prior to closing the seam. Both of these are my personal sewing preferences.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I absolutely love the finished dress. The fit and flare shape is very flattering and I love the sleeves and scooped neck. I also like that lengthen/ shorten lines are included on the pattern, as are finished garment measurements. There is nothing to dislike.
Fabric Used:
Beautiful quality printed viscose supplied by Minerva Crafts. This viscose has fantastic drape and feels so light, but is not transparent at all.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The main alteration that I made was to do a 1 inch Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) to the bodice using the method described in Fit for Real People by Palmer and Alto. I cannot recommend this book highly enough to any home sewist, regardless of size. I used the method described in their book for “fronts with cap, cut-on, or kimono sleeves”. The illustration (above) shows you how I did this alteration. It basically involves cutting the sleeve off and cutting up through the bust apex position to the seam allowance at the armhole, spreading the pattern apart by the required amount, and also lengthening the front bodice to match (in my case I lengthened the front bodice by 1.5 inches). This method also introduces a side seam bust dart.
The other alteration I made was to account for my sway back: I sliced a 1 inch wedge off the centre back of the skirt, tapering to nothing at the sides, and added this wedge back to the lower hem of the skirt.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I believe I would sew this dress again. The fit is great for me and it’s so comfortable to wear. Yes, I highly recommend.
Conclusion:
If you are looking for a feminine, flattering summer dress with a nostalgic retro vibe then this dress is for you. Make it in crepe or even silk for smarter occasions have a great all round dress.
Have a great week ahead!
This is extremely flattering. The fit is so nice on this. I do my FBA’s the same way.
Thanks Tia Dia. You should try this pattern out. I think you would like it.
Lovely dress. Thanks for the FBA instructions on this pattern.
Thanks Julie
I don’t generally leave comments but have enjoyed your blog for a while and just have to agree the shape and fabric of this one are really lovely on you!
Thank you Colleen and thanks for taking the time to comment.
This is a lovely dress on you. I would not normally consider this pattern but your picture of the fba which I would also need is really helpful. Thank you.
Thanks Cherry and glad you found it useful
Ditto to everything Colleen said. The shape and choice of fabric are delightful and look really lovely on you. Thank you for sharing the tips about the FBA method.
Thanks Kathryn
Lovely dress, Manju! Will check out the pattern, as it might be a summer possibility for me… thank you!
Thanks Del. Hope summer lasts out long enough 🙂
Never fear, just saw the forecast thru Monday – 93℉. MEH!
I love this dress on you. It is all that you say it is and more. It says glorious light feminine summer dress – something I’m hanging out for down here in New Zealand winter. I can so see why you would enjoy wearing it. I totally agree about the Fit for Real People book – my bible too. Thank you for sharing your sewing – its inspirational.
Thank you Margaret so nice of you to say so!
This dress is incredibly flattering on you – the neckline, the cut-on sleeves, the shape of the skirt, all of it. You did a wonderful job. Also, thanks for posting photos of your FBA – I do them all the time but did not know that there was an extra cut you had to make if you were making adjustments to a kimono sleeve pattern. I really need to get a copy of that book.
Thanks Masha. I have already had my moneys worth out of this book and have really only concentrated on a small fraction!
I love this dress. Perfect fabric and style for the summer!
Thanks Linda
Another beautiful dress, you are making so many lovely things lately! Agree, this is a lovely shape for you, and pretty fabric choice too.
Thank you Fiona.
Hi, I read your blog but have never got around to commenting, but I just had to say that you look fabulous in this dress.
Judy
Thank you Judy and so nice to hear from you!
Very figure flattering. Love the print.
Thanks Mariela
Very pretty on you! I love the print of this fabric and your fit is awesome!
Thanks Myra. I must say the ties in the back also help with the fit.
that is really cute – has a nice vintage vibe and perfect for summer.
Thanks Beth.
Insanely lovely! I like your version more than the samples or the line drawings.
Thanks Morgan. I really fancy doing a posh version in a silk georgette or chiffon with a silk slip underneath and lots of tiny buttons and loops in front 🙂
Such a pretty dress on you! You just need a pair of cherry Doc Martins to finish off (that would be my 90s look!)
Ha! I was never in the doc martin brigade but I know what you mean!
Looks lovely and great fit! Thanks for FBA details, really helpful.
Thanks Kay
Super dress, I have just brought some funky crepe, thinking it might become a Doris Dress
Sounds good to me Lynsey.
I was immediately attracted to your photo on PR and commented there. Great dress and fit. As I said there, I haven’t done a FBA on this type of sleeve but will now think about this pattern and of course will need one.
Thanks Anne.
This is lovely on you and super flattering! I am going to have to make some pieces out of this type of fabric. I really like the way it flows over curves but doesn’t cling.
Thanks Amanda. I do like to wear viscose/ rayon in the USA? in hot weather just because it flows over the body.
It’s such a chic tropical print and very well-fitted! Well done!
Thank you somedaysewing.
This pattern is a winner for you…so flattering, and the print is beautiful too.
So cute!!
Beautiful dress. I love the silhouette and the fabric is gorgeous. I really like the buttons along the front bodice as well.
This is really a thing of beauty. Very nice work
The silhouette is lovely on you…truly a keeper!
That looks really lovely on you!