Today is a bit of a bumper post containing the next 4 items that I sewed up for the wardrobe contest currently running on PR.com. The first thing I have to say is that I am about to cut out item number 7, but I have made a decision that I am not going to rush to complete the remaining 4 items by the end of the month. I am absolutely fine with that, and it is the right decision for me. I have no regrets with what I have sewn up for the contest so far and will still go on to probably sew the remaining garments in my own good time.
So first up is Butterick 6179, first sewn here. This version is made in a triple crepe and the only alteration I made was to shorten this version by 2 inches compared to the first version. I LOVE these culottes…I know they are not everyones cup of tea…but I just love how I feel when I wear them. Classy, elegant, sophisticated and on trend. Nothing more to say about these.
The top…now that’s a whole other matter, LOL. The top is McCalls 7248. I had such high hopes for this top, especially after seeing Amanda’s gorgeous version, and really I guess I was hoping this version (made in a polyester georgette) would be a wearable muslin. And it kind of almost is. But, you see, I made a decision to raise the neckline split by 1 inch and I think that 1 little inch has thrown the fit of the whole top off. You can probably see in the pictures it is pulling over the top of my bust from the neckline split.
If you follow me on instagram you would have seen I initially attached one of the sleeves and it just felt tight right across the tops of the arms and across the back. So I took the sleeve off and added a self bias facing at the armholes and kept it sleeveless. The fit of this top is not perfect and I really don’t know if it is simply down to that 1 inch or something else. I did do an FBA on the pattern and added bust darts before sewing…even in this sleeveless version the armholes are snug (but wearable). Any thoughts? Here’s some pictures of it untucked (I would never wear it like this with the culottes BTW!)…and my review follows.
Loose-fitting, pullover tops have front band and pleat, back pleat, Self-lined yoke, and narrow hem. A and B: Bias neck binding and gathers. B, C (button tab) and D: Long sleeves with continuous lap, pleats and button cuffs. Wrong side shows on rolled sleeves C, and longer back hemline B and D. C and D: Neck band.
I made view B with the sleeve tabs from View C and the hem from View D.
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Erm…kind of. My version is sleeveless.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
For the most part, yes. I did NOT like the instructions for the neck band and did my own thing! First off you are told to staystich the neckline at 0.5 inches from the raw edge, but the neck band is sewn on using a 3/8 inch seam allowance, which means the stay stitching is visible (and therefore had to be unpicked). Secondly, if you follow the instructions fot the neck band I think the pattern has you treat the neck band almost like a bias facing? I didn’t get that. I wanted my neck band to be more visible so I turned the inside edge under and slip stitched it closed.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
See above for a dislike. The fit of my top is off and the main reason I think is due to the fact I raised the neckline slit depth by 1 inch. It seems to have thrown the fit of the whole top off. There are pull lines radiating out from the neckline slit over the top of my bust. Initially I had a sleeve on and it felt tight across the tops of the arms and across the back. I ended up taking the sleeve off and adding a self bias facing to finish the armholes off. I don’t know if dropping the depth back down again will alleviate these problems. Even in this sleeveless version the armholes feel snug.
Polyester georgette with animal print.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Reduced sleeve length by 0.5 inch.
0.5 inch sway back adjustment.
Raised depth of neckline slit by 1 inch (including shortening pattern piece number 2 – front band – by `1 inch).
1 inch FBA, adding in side bust dart.
I interfaced the neck band using a tricot interfacing.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t know. I think on a smaller busted person this would be a great top.
Disappointed but that’s the nature of the sewing beast. I will probably still wear this top. When I get over it maybe I will look at this pattern again…or just move on (more likely).
This version is made in 10 oz cotton denim with 2% elastane and they fit and feel much better than the first pair. Changes made:
- Moved back pocket position down by 0.25 inches
- Shortened length of leg above knee by 1 inch
- Slimmed inner thigh down by 0.25 inch
- Raised crotch by 0.25 inch
- Reduced rise by 1 inch
- Reduced depth of waistband by 0.5 inch
- Lengthened at calf by 3 inches (I like the wrinkled ankle look)
- I cut the back elastic 1 inch shorter than the front. For the next pair I would make this more like 1.5 inches shorter.
Overall I love them. Very flattering (I think) and I have worn them all day and the denim has not bagged out at all. I have made another pair…next time!
Finally I made a top length version of McCalls 6886 using a striped ponte knit. I added 5/8 inch seam allowance below the bust (could perhaps have even added on a little more for a looser fit?), made the sleeves 3/4 length and added side slits. The neckline is finished using a chambray bias facing. Very neat.
Phew! Ok. So, that’s me for today. Where is this year flying away too? Have a great weekend. Until soon…