Vogue 8998: DIY Floral Silk Fit and Flare Dress

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress
Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Dear Friends,

I have finally finished Vogue 8998! This dress was started back in October of last year, when I hoped to complete it in time for my 40th birthday. Alas, I ran out of silk (ordered from a Chinese ebayer) and had to wait a considerable length of time for more to arrive. And then we moved house, and you know, I didn’t have an occassion to finish the dress for etc. But, thanks to my overlocker being in the shop, it forced me to pick this project up and finish it. And I am so glad I did!

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress
Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

There are, I think, 25 individual pieces to sew together to form the outer part of this dress. So multiply that by two for the lining and another 12 pieces or so to cut for the underlining. My outer fabric is silk, I underlined with silk organza, and the lining is silk cotton. All fabrics were purchased from 2 Chinese eBay sellers. I did perform a flame test on the fabrics and I am fairly confident they are the real deal. Note – it is worthwhile labelling each skirt piece so you know which piece is which, and which side is the right/ wrong side!

Vogue 8998 - silk organza underlining
Vogue 8998 – silk organza underlining
Vogue 8998 - labelling skirt lining pieces
Vogue 8998 – labelling skirt lining pieces

The hem of the skirt has horsehair braid (or what I could get hold of that is supposed to  be horsehair braid), handstitched to the wrong side of the lining of the skirt. The hem of the skirt lining is then sewn to the hem of the skirt (right sides together) and the whole thing turned right side out so that the horsehair braid and all of the seams are enclosed inside the garment.

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress - horsehair braid at hem
Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress – horsehair braid at hem

It does give a lovely shape to the skirt, and makes for a very swishy affair.

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress
Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

You can read about changes I made to the pattern in the review below. One thing I wish I had perhaps done differently is that, it might not be that apparent from these photographs, but I do feel the waistband looks a little wavy. I think I should have used 2 layers of silk organza to stabilise and support the waistband more, but hey, we live and learn. No way am I going to change it now…it would mean taking everything apart. Also, I do feel the sleeves are quite wide…I did try and take them in a bit…if I was making again I would try and do something about them. (Perhaps the fact I underlined the sleeves as well isn’t helping with the “wideness”).

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress
Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress
Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress
Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Lined dress has close-fitting, interfaced bodice with princess seams, inset band, skirt variations (horse hair finish on hemline) and back zipper. A: cap sleeves. A, B and C: skirt seam detail. D: collar. D, E and F: gathered skirt with princess seams, and side pockets. F: band and skirt overlays. Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I did deviate somewhat.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished shape and fit. And I love the feel and shape of the skirt with the horsehair braid in it. I think the sleeves are a little wide? I took them in by about 0.5 inch front and back, but if I was sewing again I would look at this. Maybe the fact I underlined the sleeves with silk organza is also contributing to them looking a little too wide? I think I would do something about the armholes being too cut in for my liking if making again.
Fabric Used:
Silk (maybe charmeuse? or lightweight satin?) for the outer; silk organza underlining and silk cotton lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I pinched out 0.25 inches either side of the front neckline (removing a total of 0.5 inches) to stop the straps from sliding off my shoulders.
  • I shortened the back bodice by 1 inch, tapering to nothing at the sides.
  • I shortened all the skirt pieces by 5/8ths of an inch.
  • I ended up taking a 1 inch seam allowance at the centre back seam.
  • I made the sleeves approx. 1 inch smaller in total.
  • I machined the waist band lining to the skirt lining, and didn’t hand stitch as the instructions tell you.
  • I installed an invisible zipper.
  • I underlined the sleeves.
  • I wish I had double underlined the waistband: I think the waistband looks ever so slightly wavy in places and I think it would have benefitted from more support.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I might sew this again…if I had a special occassion coming up. Yes. I recommend.
Conclusion:

This is a perfect pattern to sew for a spring or summer wedding I think. My version, at least, is so light and comfortable and makes me feel very feminine and elegant. Highly recommend.

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress
Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Come back in a few days and check out the satin jacket I made to go along with this dress. Until then!

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Posted by

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

63 thoughts on “Vogue 8998: DIY Floral Silk Fit and Flare Dress

  1. Oh my… I just love this, and such a fantastic fit! The fabric and the colours are stunning… I am so pleased you got back to it!
    I think the hem is just so clever because of the weight of the fabric, so it is slightly weighted which with the silk is perfect. So, so clever… worth waiting for the fabric. It would be stunning for a 40th birthday party!

  2. This is really flattering on you and looks really posh. The choice of fabric gives it a summery look so I hope you get to wear it.

  3. This dress looks fabulous on you. You have lots of patience to sew all those pieces. Ps why do you use interlining in a dress, is it for stability?

    1. Thanks Kathy. Ha I don’t know about everyday but one thing I forgot to mention in the post is that I prewashed all the fabrics so if I did want to wash and wear it everyday I could. Maybe. 🙂

  4. Wow, that is beautiful Manju. Definitely worth the wait for the extra fabric and all the work that went into it.

  5. This is just gorgeous! I’m so glad your serger was in the shop and you pulled this out to finish it! Thanks for showing all the construction deets. Beautiful!

  6. Oh wow this is AMAZING! And your fit is excellent! I think the width of the sleeves actually looks intentional, like the underlining just gave it more structure. I haven’t heard of double underlining. Would interfacing serve the same purpose for your waistband?

    1. Hi Eryn, I think the instructions actually call for sew in interfacing, but I chose to use silk organza because of the fact I was using silk fabric. I have read that double layering silk organza cut on the straight of grain and cross grain makes it supremely strong. So if I was using organza for this dress again that’s what I would do. But a sew in interfacing might be fine. Depends on your fabric.

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