At the end of 2013 I made my first Sewaholic Minoru Jacket, which you can see and read about here. At the time, I was very pleased with the jacket, and it did get worn quite a bit.
But, I was never fully happy with my fabric selections, and there were parts of the design of the jacket which irked me. Like the fact the collar was too high for me, the hood refused to stay on my head in the wind and the lack of pockets (I added in-seam pockets but they were too shallow to be practical).
It got to the point where I just stopped wearing it, and believe you me, life without a practical raincoat of some kind in this part of this world is, well, not very practical! So, I decided to have another bash at it.
The fabric is described as a water repellent super fine cupro and microfibre soft touch poplin, purchased on ebay (I swatched first). I used a microtex needle to sew it. It was hard to get pins to penetrate through the coated fabric, and I tried to limit pins to seam allowances only. I used my silk organza press cloth throughout. I didn’t use any special thread for the topstitching: I didn’t really want it to stand out too much so used my regular Gutterman polyester.
The jacket is fully lined with an acetate (I think) lining:
In terms of the changes I made, I made no changes to the sizing/ fit of the jacket from the previous version. However, I did the following:
- Shortened the collar height by approx. 1 and 3/4 inches
- Used a 28 inch (as opposed to suggested 30 inch) zip
- Omitted the zipped section in the collar to store the hood: I never used this anyway. I sewed the hood directly to the collar/ neck seam of the jacket
- As a consequence of shortening the collar, I also shortened the length of the plackets by 1 and 3/4 inches
- Added single welt pockets placed on the diagonal to the front of the jacket. I used this tutorial from Craftsy: it was spot on. I did add anorak snaps to the welts, but they are non functioning (I didn’t add the corresponding back snaps)
- Added a front zipper guard with snaps. The snaps were a b*tch to put on. I used this tutorial from no big dill, which helped. A little. Tip: buy double the number of snaps you need. You will end up using them all.
- (Unintentionally) made the hood slightly smaller, and added an elasticated drawstring to keep it on my head
- Omitted the wide elastic in the back of the jacket and instead added narrow elastic which is adjustable: make as tight or loose as you wish, and I think it’s more flattering (for me)
Lots of pictures:
So that’s me sorted for a casual raincoat and I am very pleased with the changes I made and the way this jackets turned out. Added bonus: Khaki is currently very much on trend. I think I am getting addicted to sewing coats of any description!
Have a great weekend everyone!