Vogue 9037: DIY Oversized Collar Cream Wrap Winter Coat

Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat
Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat

Hello there, from a wet and wild Cumbria!

Winter is still with us, and last weekend I decided to make a coat (as you do!) I had this fabric in my stash that I picked up from my local market and I figured if I didn’t use it then it would sit there until next winter…or longer….so I decided to go for it.

Let  me tell you about the fabric first. It was either made by or for Barbour (the company that makes the famous waxed and now quilted jackets). It is perhaps what you might call a technical fabric? I have no idea of the exact composition. It has a nap and is very soft and strokeable. It is also double layered. By that I mean it is two layers of fabric which appear to have been glued together with a layer of foam sandwiched inbetween (so it is quite heavy and very warm). It is also water repellent. Here’s a shot of the fabric so you can see what I mean by the two layers.

Double layered fabric used for Vogue 9037
Double layered fabric used for Vogue 9037

In case any one is wondering about the practicalities of keeping a cream coat like this clean without running up extortionate dry cleaning bills, I prewashed this fabric (I tested a sample first!). In fact, I noticed some marks on it before taking these photographs, so it is in the wash as I type.

Now, the pattern. The pattern is Vogue 9037. Here’s the envelope illustration of the version I sewed (view C).

Vogue 9037 envelope illustration
Vogue 9037 envelope illustration

My version:

Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat
Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat

The major difference you will notice is that I chose to level the bottom hem off (remember if you do this, you also have to adjust the facing pattern piece as well). It’s an easy adjustment to make if you are not fond of the shaped hem thing.

Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat
Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat
Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat
Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat

This is classed as a very easy vogue pattern and it was very easy. I don’t think there was anything particularly difficult about it and the results, as you can see, are pretty dramatic. If you don’t like the oversized collar thing, this pattern isn’t for you (although there are two other more moderately sized collars included in the envelope).

I didn’t want to line this fabric. It is double faced so I didn’t see the point. That  is in part why I went for this pattern. However,  you are then left with a dilemma as to how to finish the insides. I chose to make bias binding from a polyester satin and do a hong kong finish on most of the seams. I started doing it on the pockets and side seams and it looked like a dogs dinner. So I ripped that off and tried overlocking those seams. Again. Not nice. This is a thick fabric. In the end I settled for pinking those edges (another thing about this fabric is it doesn’t fray). I am ok with it. (Ignore what else you can see on the dummy: my daughter has claimed this dummy for her own!)

Vogue 9037 inside finish
Vogue 9037 inside finish
Vogue 9037 inside finish
Vogue 9037 inside finish

The one thing I wish I had done differently was adjust the collar for turn of cloth. Ah well, It’s not too obvious but a lesson learned for next time.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Loose-fitting, unlined, double-breasted jacket has collar variations, front and back tucks, shaped front hemline and snap closing. C: side pockets. A and C: self belt. Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustment.

I made a slightly modified view C.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I think so, although I chose to level the front hem off (remember if you do this you have to also change the facing piece as well).
Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished effect. That is probably alot to do with my fabric (see below), but if you want a dramatic oversized collar, then this does the job.I wish I had adjusted for turn of cloth on the collar.
Fabric Used:
It was either made by or for Barbour (the company that makes the famous waxed and now quilted jackets). It is perhaps what you might call a technical fabric? I have no idea of the exact composition. It has a nap and is very soft and strokeable. It is also double layered/ double faced. By that I mean it is two layers of fabric which appear to have been glued together with a layer of foam sandwiched inbetween (so it is quite heavy and very warm). There is no wrong side and it does not fray when cut. It is also water repellent.

Because of the above, I wanted a pattern for a coat which was unlined. I chose to finish my jacket with a combination of a hong kong finish and pinking.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I levelled the front hem and facing piece off, and added 1 inch to the lower hems. I shortened the sleeves by about an inch and did a 1 inch full arm adjustment. I hand sewed the hems. I added belt loops and some topstitching to the belt.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

It’s quite distinctive so probably not (maybe one of the other views?). Yes, I recommend.
Conclusion:

I feel ab fab when I wear this coat. It feels amazing on and I am sure I will get a little more wear out of this  piece before packing it away until next year.

Wherever you are, keep warm and keep sewing. Until soon…

Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat
Vogue 9037: Oversized collar winter coat
Advertisements

Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

32 thoughts on “Vogue 9037: DIY Oversized Collar Cream Wrap Winter Coat

  1. That big collar is fun. I am also utterly astonished at how green the grass is (as I am from the desert southwest of the US). Amazing.

  2. That coat is the best…I love it!!!! Because Vogue has the smaller collar on the envelope, I hadn’t looked at the pattern. The big collar looks warm, cuddly and stylish!!!!!

  3. You always have the best fabric!!
    I was after some ivory wool melton but it’s proving illusive at the moment

  4. THIS is the kind of jacket that I’m going for: something cuddly to cocoon in! Thanks for showing us what it looks like in a stiffer fabric. This pattern is on my Wish List, and I plan to place an order today.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s