Good Afternoon Friends,
Everyone talks about wrap dresses and how universally flattering and versatile they are. I have only ever bought one (true) RTW wrap dress, and was never happy with the fit. It has since been passed on to charity. A couple of years ago I made a wrap dress, using this same pattern, Vogue 8784. You can see that version here. Bear in mind that dress was actually the very first thing I ever sewed using a knit fabric, and it was pre-serger days.
I have worn the first version of that dress once. For half a day. I felt frumpy wearing it (due to the longer length), and I wasn’t comfortable with the gaping at the bust. Fast forward two years and I decided to re-visit the pattern and have another go.
This time round I made the bust bigger and used twill tape to stabilise the bodice front edges. I shortened the length of the skirt and the sleeves (although I think if I made this again I would narrow the lower part of the sleeves down). The major change I made was I omitted the lining for this dress, choosing instead to use a bias tape (made from self fabric) as a facing finish. What a pain in the ar*e that was. I should have made the bias tape wider. I got away with it in the end, but it made the front skirt edges stretch out and curl horribly. Look:
I almost threw the whole thing in the bin. But, after sleeping on it for a night, the following day I used my rotary cutter to slice away the offending edge, bias tape and all, and serged the raw edge, turned and stitched. That is what you can see on the finished dress. Not ideal but much better. Next time round, if I don’t add a lining, I need to think about how I am going to finish the edges. Draft a facing for the front and finish the skirt edges before joining skirt to bodice?
So how do I feel about this version? I wore it for most of the day yesterday and I can report it definitely doesn’t gape. I know you can see a fair amount of cleavage here but you can’t see my bra. It feels secure and comfortable and I feel very…womanly…wearing it. In a good way. I can’t decide whether omitting the lining was a good idea or not. I believe Diane Von Furstenberg wrap dresses are generally unlined. But most of them seem to be made of silk/ silk jersey nowadays? Is silk jersey likely to be more flattering than cotton jersey? BTW, this one’s my favourite at Selfridges. Hmmm, finding (printed) silk jersey in these parts is a little like finding hen’s teeth I fear….
In short, I do like this pattern for the versatility it offers. You have the choice of the flared skirt or the more fitted skirt, and the fitted skirt has pleats over the tummy which I like, a lot. I think maybe I should try a different weight of jersey next time round. Or possibly just try putting the lining back in. The first time I made this pattern I used a pongee stretch lining, which doesn’t have a comparable stretch to the jersey used. I think that’s what I didn’t like. Next time I could use a tricot or stretch lining or even self fabric for the bodice at least and I think I might feel happier. Making this version has made me see why women rave about the wrap dress. Another version, a little more tweaking, and I might have the perfect pattern for me.
Pattern Review
Pattern Description:
Lined, wrap dress has close-fitting bodice with front tucks, back princess seams, side opening for tie ends, and topstitching. A: narrow hem. B: semi-fitted, front pleated skirt, and stitched hemline/sleeve hem.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, although I omitted the lining.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This is my second time making this pattern. The first time round I wasn’t happy with the fit on the bust or the length (too long). This time I made modifications to address both those issues. I do like this pattern for the versatility it offers. You have the choice of the flared skirt or the more fitted skirt, and the fitted skirt has pleats over the tummy which I like, a lot. The first time I made this pattern I used a pongee stretch lining, which doesn’t have a comparable stretch to the jersey used. I think that’s what I didn’t like. So this time round I omitted the lining. If I made this dress again I might include a tricot or stretch lining or even self fabric for the bodice at least and I think I might feel happier.
Fabric Used:
Cotton jersey.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made the bust bigger relative to the first time of sewing.
I used twill tape along the front bodice edges to prevent gaping.
I stabilised the shoulders using clear elastic.
I set the sleeves in flat.
I omitted the lining, using a self fabric bias tape as facing.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. Yes, I would recommend.
Conclusion:
Making this version has made me see why women rave about the wrap dress. Another version, a little more tweaking, and I might have the perfect pattern for me.
Have a great week everyone, and remember you still have until next Sunday to enter my Linton Tweed Giveaway.
sewmanju 
Looks beautiful!
Thanks Jen.
You look feminine and fabulous!
Thanks Chinneliya.
Wonderful fit! You wear a fitted knit so well.
Thanks Faye.
Gorgeous dress! I do love a good wrap dress. The perfectly fitting wrap dress just looks amazing, and I think yours is spot on! I’ve always thought that wrap dresses look particularly magnificent with curves. Yes, you have a bit of cleavage, but it is the perfect classy amount. Oh to have cleavage like that ;-)…don’t we always want what we don’t have! I’ve used silk jersey in the past – I picked up a remnant from Tessuti to make a top, and recently used some from Mood to make some trackie dacks. It truly is the most delicious textile to wear. It’s like wearing nothing. But it does show up every single curve and bump on the body, more than any other jersey I’ve worn before. Ultra slinky, ultra drapey and well worth the spend. Silk jersey would make the most magnificent floor length wrap dress for a special occasion (with the right undergarments!).
Ha thanks true debbie, we do want what we don’t have!! Thanks for the info on silk jersey. If I ever make a trip to NYC Mood I reckon that’s something I will have to check out.
Beautiful dress and very flattering on you. I love me a wrap dress, so comfortable and yet I always feel ‘put together’. I have used lightweight jersey to line a coup,e and it’s worked well.
Thanks wendy. Yep having made one lined and one without, I thinking a stretch lining of some kind would make this almost perfect.
It looks great on you!
Since you sorta asked … my fav wrap front “facing” is to ZZ (med width setting) clear elastic to the WS of the raw edge, stretching the elastic a little bit as I’m stitching … not much, just enough to prevent gape … and then fold over to the inside and coverstitch from the top. I’ll trim (or create) seam allowances to match the width of the clear elastic. Mastering the CE is tricky at first, and my teflon foot is a big help in keeping things moving smoothly.
Thanks and great tip debbie. I might just try that. But practise with my Teflon foot first might be wise!
Va va blooming voom! You look unbelievably gorgeous in that dress. I agree that it absolutely suits your figure and you look beautiful. I take my hat off to you for even attempting this type of dress. I never have!
Thank you Karen. I do think a wrap dress really is one of those universally flattering styles.
Vavoom! I love wrap dresses oneveryone but me! I always feel like I am about to come unwrapped! Like trying to do jumping jacks in a bath towel- i spend all day worrying- probably needlessly!
I do love this on you…..
Thanks anne.
I like it! That color is especially pretty on you. I must admit that I hate sewing with knits. Something always goes awry or doesn’t hang right or looks too lumpy/bumpy/homemade. I’ve pretty much given up on them completely.
Thanks Amanda. I think you’re being too hard on yourself…the knits I’ve seen you make look pretty good to me 🙂
Gorgeous colour on you, and beautiful fit! I think I have a UFO of that pattern–perhaps I’ll try again…
Thanks jessica. Definitely try it out.
I love this on you…the colour, the style…very chic indeed!
Thanks Ange.
I think you look stunning! It’s very flattering, and you have the perfect figure for it!
Thanks Ant.
So well done for not throwing it in the bin… worth sleeping on it!
You look great and I think the shorter length is better, very nice fabric, I like the colours on you.
Thank you Janet.
Manju, this looks spectacular on you! The colour, the fit, everything. Definitely your style! I love a wrap dress myself, but have never made one, I’ll have to check out this pattern.
Thanks Sam. You should definitely have a bash at making a wrap dress. I reckon you would look fab.
Wow that is a stunning dress, awesome sewing manju! I made a kwik sew wrap dress years ago! I must revisit that pattern!
Thank you beebees!
It looks great on you. I’ve never had a wrap dress. I think I have a slight fear of it unwrapping and completely falling off 😀
Thanks bamboo blossom. It really is very secure.
The fabric looks gorgeous on you and is very flattering. I have a wrap dress on the planning books now. Such a pretty color too!
Thanks Sabrina.
Make another ! NOW! That dress is so flattering and sexy, plus the colour of the fabric in so nice on you.
Thanks Kat. I was thinking of a black version…hmmm….too many ideas, not enough time!
Wow. This is gorgeous on you — the color, the fit, everything. I made the same pattern in a woven. Here’s my version. http://jmsewingstudio.com/2014/06/10/coral-wrap-dress-update/
I think you look great! I too have a bit of bust to work around in my pattern fitting. I have found a (new to me) great way to get a secure neckline without the waves and ripples from the Colette Moneta instructions. I line the bodice area only, by constructing two bodice pieces – I then serge the neckline with the right sides together. I then use knicker elastic, or 1/4 inch elastic, and zig zag stitch it to the seam of my serger. I stretch the elastic only slightly. Then flip it right side out and top stitch on the elastic with my cover stitch machine or a elongated stretch stitch. Then I put my sleeves in flat and go about the rest of the construction. I hope that makes sense
I found it works much nicer than twill tape as you get the stretch you need, but the stability is awesome. — I also slice my wrap dresses at the waist to do the bodice separate from the skirt. I find this gives me the best fit — from sway back and FBA, I just can’t seem to get it done well as one piece.