Hello Friends,

How are you all? I am doing ok. I have been busy working on this jacket on and off for probably the last 10 days or so. For an “easy” rated pattern it had it’s challenges. Let’s talk in detail!

So, I have wanted a knitted blazer style jacket for the longest time. I had an RTW one which I have since given to charity because it was just too short and I never felt comfortable wearing it. I bought Butterick 5926 a while back and I actually have some gorgeous navy wool jersey in my stash which I had planned on making this up in, but then I stumbled across this floral print scuba (neoprene) fabric online, and decided this would be a wearable muslin and I liked the idea of the printed jacket (I know, harder to wear)! I like the idea of a knitted blazer style jacket because I think they can dress an outfit up, are supremely comfortable to drive in, and are perfect for travelling with.

Anyhoo, Butterick have rated this jacket as easy. It is. But if you want a decent looking jacket I don’t think their instructions are adequate. IMO. Full review below.

Ok, so I didn’t make things easy for myself using the scuba fabric. This fabric does not like to be pressed. I used a high heat, lots of steam, my silk organza press cloth and my clapper to try and slap those edges into submission. BTW, this fabric was fairly easy to sew. I used a 80/12 Schmetz universal needle and a regular stitch at 2.2 length, with 2.8 for the topstitching. I used a wide three thread overlock to finish the edges inside. Cos, yes, this jacket is unlined. Not so happy with that. But then I am kind of glad I didn’t go all out and line this jacket. Here’s an interior shot. Ignore the dirty smudge at the top. I also added a hanging loop. It is not lopsided in real life: I still don’t have a dress form.

In terms of print match: I didn’t. Except for I tried to get a match at the centre back and on the pockets.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Fitted, unlined jacket has collar, pockets and stitched hems. A and C: purchased trim. Designed for moderate stretch knits.

Pattern Sizing:

8 – 24

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Essentially, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

If you follow the instructions I think you may end up being slightly disappointed, IMO. The instructions are fine up until the point where it tells you to attach the upper collar and facing to the jacket and undercollar (step 20). Getting your head around that takes some effort! I found Sherry’s RTW tailoring sewalong invaluable for this step.

Additionally, the pattern does not make any mention of understitching. I know I didn’t take the easy route by using the fabric that I did, but given that the suggested fabrics for this jacket include sweatshirt fleece and wool jersey, I think the understitching is fairly crucial to try and get a decent looking jacket. Again, Sherry’s RTW tailoring sewalong was invaluable.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I think the fit is true to size and I like the overall shape. This pattern includes a separate undercollar piece, bust, back shoulder and elbow darts. I think the instructions are not brilliant.

Fabric Used:

A floral printed scuba (neoprene) fabric. This fabric does not like to be pressed. I used a high heat, lots of steam, my silk organza press cloth and my clapper to try and slap those edges into submission. BTW, this fabric was fairly easy to sew. I used a 80/12 Schmetz universal needle and a regular stitch at 2.2 length, with 2.8 for the topstitching. I used a wide three thread overlock to finish the edges inside.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I think I shortened the sleeves by 3.5 inches. I did a half inch sway back adjustment. I did a tissue fit first and from that established the roll line. I then taped the roll line: easing the jacket front to a pre-shrunk length of twill tape using a catch stitch.

One of the major things I did differently to the instructions was the additional understitching I did. I understitched the seam allowances to the jacket facings below the roll line break point; I understitched the seam allowances to the jacket front above the roll line break point; and I understitched the seam allowances of the back of the collar to the under collar. These were all done in an attempt to make the lapels and collar of the jacket roll and sit nicely. It’s not perfect. The collar on the left hand side is trying to flip up slightly and I would like another attempt at joining the collar to the undercollar. But it was a great learning experience without going all out on a fully tailored jacket.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I might still sew this for autumn in my navy wool jersey. It is a good pattern, but probably not one for an absolute beginner. I would recommend to intermediate/ experienced sewers.

Conclusion:

This is a good pattern, with mediocre instructions. Maybe my next attempt will be closer to the mark.

Have a great weekend everyone, and look forward to meeting some of you on Saturday!