
Hello Friends,
How are you all? I am doing ok. I have been busy working on this jacket on and off for probably the last 10 days or so. For an “easy” rated pattern it had it’s challenges. Let’s talk in detail!

So, I have wanted a knitted blazer style jacket for the longest time. I had an RTW one which I have since given to charity because it was just too short and I never felt comfortable wearing it. I bought Butterick 5926 a while back and I actually have some gorgeous navy wool jersey in my stash which I had planned on making this up in, but then I stumbled across this floral print scuba (neoprene) fabric online, and decided this would be a wearable muslin and I liked the idea of the printed jacket (I know, harder to wear)! I like the idea of a knitted blazer style jacket because I think they can dress an outfit up, are supremely comfortable to drive in, and are perfect for travelling with.

Anyhoo, Butterick have rated this jacket as easy. It is. But if you want a decent looking jacket I don’t think their instructions are adequate. IMO. Full review below.

Ok, so I didn’t make things easy for myself using the scuba fabric. This fabric does not like to be pressed. I used a high heat, lots of steam, my silk organza press cloth and my clapper to try and slap those edges into submission. BTW, this fabric was fairly easy to sew. I used a 80/12 Schmetz universal needle and a regular stitch at 2.2 length, with 2.8 for the topstitching. I used a wide three thread overlock to finish the edges inside. Cos, yes, this jacket is unlined. Not so happy with that. But then I am kind of glad I didn’t go all out and line this jacket. Here’s an interior shot. Ignore the dirty smudge at the top. I also added a hanging loop. It is not lopsided in real life: I still don’t have a dress form.

In terms of print match: I didn’t. Except for I tried to get a match at the centre back and on the pockets.

Pattern Review
Pattern Description:
Fitted, unlined jacket has collar, pockets and stitched hems. A and C: purchased trim. Designed for moderate stretch knits.
Pattern Sizing:
8 – 24
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Essentially, yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
If you follow the instructions I think you may end up being slightly disappointed, IMO. The instructions are fine up until the point where it tells you to attach the upper collar and facing to the jacket and undercollar (step 20). Getting your head around that takes some effort! I found Sherry’s RTW tailoring sewalong invaluable for this step.
Additionally, the pattern does not make any mention of understitching. I know I didn’t take the easy route by using the fabric that I did, but given that the suggested fabrics for this jacket include sweatshirt fleece and wool jersey, I think the understitching is fairly crucial to try and get a decent looking jacket. Again, Sherry’s RTW tailoring sewalong was invaluable.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I think the fit is true to size and I like the overall shape. This pattern includes a separate undercollar piece, bust, back shoulder and elbow darts. I think the instructions are not brilliant.
Fabric Used:
A floral printed scuba (neoprene) fabric. This fabric does not like to be pressed. I used a high heat, lots of steam, my silk organza press cloth and my clapper to try and slap those edges into submission. BTW, this fabric was fairly easy to sew. I used a 80/12 Schmetz universal needle and a regular stitch at 2.2 length, with 2.8 for the topstitching. I used a wide three thread overlock to finish the edges inside.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I think I shortened the sleeves by 3.5 inches. I did a half inch sway back adjustment. I did a tissue fit first and from that established the roll line. I then taped the roll line: easing the jacket front to a pre-shrunk length of twill tape using a catch stitch.

One of the major things I did differently to the instructions was the additional understitching I did. I understitched the seam allowances to the jacket facings below the roll line break point; I understitched the seam allowances to the jacket front above the roll line break point; and I understitched the seam allowances of the back of the collar to the under collar. These were all done in an attempt to make the lapels and collar of the jacket roll and sit nicely. It’s not perfect. The collar on the left hand side is trying to flip up slightly and I would like another attempt at joining the collar to the undercollar. But it was a great learning experience without going all out on a fully tailored jacket.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might still sew this for autumn in my navy wool jersey. It is a good pattern, but probably not one for an absolute beginner. I would recommend to intermediate/ experienced sewers.
Conclusion:
This is a good pattern, with mediocre instructions. Maybe my next attempt will be closer to the mark.

Have a great weekend everyone, and look forward to meeting some of you on Saturday!
I really like it, the fabric is so pretty, a really nice summery piece for your wardrobe.
Thanks Fiona. Wore it out today and it was very comfortable and a good cover up for a cloudy but little warm day!
That is a very stylish jacket just right for cool days during the summer months. Your construction is perfect!
Thanks zibergirl.
I love this jacket!!!! You did a great job!
Thank you Vanessa.
That’s one lovely jacket you’ve made there. I don’t know if I love sewing with neoprene myself (the pressing and extra bulk of it) but I do LOVE the way it looks. I’ve just finished making a neoprene skirt and jacket myself, using that fabric for the first time. I absolutely adore the print on yours and although you say you didn’t do much pattern matching, you’ve made the back and pockets look smashing!
Thanks debbie. Look forward to seeing your creation.
That fabric sounds as if it was a bit of a nightmare to deal with, but the finished jacket looks great.
Thanks Sam.
This is a lovely addition to your wardrobe Manju. The floral is so pretty and your pattern matching at the centre back looks great. Beautiful jacket.
Thank you Jean Margaret.
Nice work on matching the pockets and the center back!
Thanks Ebi.
We love the results! Sorry you felt the instructions left something to be desired. Would you mind sending your criticisms to us so we can see how we might improve our efforts? consumerservices@butterick.com. Thanks!
WOW! This is awesome!
Thanks ebi.
Thanks McCalls! I will send an email sometime.
I love the fabric! Where did you get it? I’m looking to make some kayak / paddling gear and wanna look pretty.
If you want a dress form, I highly recommend Jan Bones papertape kits and dressform book. Then find 2 good sewing friends to wrap you. I took her class on this (on my blog) and it totally changed my sewing. I improved leaps and bounds and really saw what and why my fitting challenges are with my round bum and sway back.
Hi Gwen. The fabric is an eBay purchase . There’s quite a lot of scuba fabric cropping up on there nowadays (least in the UK). Thanks for the tip on the dressform. I will look into that!
Very pretty!!!
Thanks judi.
Sooooo gorgeous! I want one……..
Thank you csewit. Get sewing girl!
I never would have thought to use neoprene like this but I do love the print. The bright blue is fantastic.
Thanks heather.
Scuba fabric! Wow, that’s so cool!
Thanks Carolyn. I don’t know if I would wear it in the heights of summer but for our mixed weather here in the UK it’s perfect.
Awesome! I end up top-stitching difficult fabrics, but I must say, this is very very nice!
Hi there, I will soon try out this pattern but I can only find 45″ yardage versus the 60″ that the pattern calls for. Are any of the pattern pieces bigger than 45″???
No none of them are
Your jacket looks great. I am having the hardest time with the collar. I wish I had read reviews before deciding on the pattern, as I am about ready to give up on it. lol
Hi, sewing a notched collar for the first time is hard and I learned how to do it from a craftsy class. If you check out this blog she did a series of posts on how to sew a blazer and you might be able to figure it out from there. http://gksagenda.blogspot.co.uk/p/blazer-sew-along.html?m=1