Butterick 5683: DIY quilted zip up jacket

Butterick 5683 quilted jacket
Butterick 5683 quilted jacket

Hellooo Readers!

How are you all? Today I wanted to share with you a quilted jacket I have just finished making using Butterick 5683. Here’s the envelope illustration:

Butterick 5683 envelope illustration
Butterick 5683 envelope illustration

My version:

Butterick 5683: DIY quilted jacket
Butterick 5683: quilted jacket

This pattern is rated as “easy”, and it is. It would also, ordinarily, be fairly easy to fit, with the front and back princess seams. However, this is also an unlined jacket, and using (pre) quilted fabric as I was, there was no way I wanted unfinished seams inside, or even overlocked seams where the inner wadding would have been visible. So, for my third project in a row(!) I used flat fell seams to finish all the inside seams. Here are some inside shots:

Butterick 5683 inside view jacket front
Butterick 5683 inside view jacket front – the darker blue is the facing
Butterick 5683 inside view jacket back
Butterick 5683 inside view jacket back
Butterick 5683 close up of flat fell seam detail
Butterick 5683 close up of flat fell seam detail

Now, in case you can’t tell, I love doing flat fell seams. They are strong, fairly easy to do, hide your raw edges, and when used appropriately, can give a garment a very RTW finish. But in this instance they were very time consuming, and in some places, very difficult to do. I had to remove all the wadding from each of the seam allowances to allow me to turn the one of the seam allowances over the other to sew the flat fell seam. Also, it was very hard (although not impossible) to sew the flat fell finish on the sleeve seam and around the arm holes. My biggest tip if you are going to make this jacket in quilted fabric: leave extra large seam allowances, both for fitting and to allow you to do the flat fell finish without sweating (although I did it with 5/8 inch seam allowance).

I also swapped the sleeves out for two piece sleeves and love the shaping they give. And I added corduroy elbow patches and the collar is also cut from corduroy.

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket
Butterick 5683: quilted jacket

I am ok with the fit of this jacket, although if I were making it again I would probably make the back a bit slimmer fit. Even if you make a muslin for this jacket, unless the muslin is made out of quilted fabric (or at least fabric of an equivalent thickness), judging the fit is quite hard to do.

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket
Butterick 5683: quilted jacket – elbows!

Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:

Loose-fitting, unlined vest/jacket has front separating zipper. A: bias tape neck and armhole finish. B: standing collar, side front pockets and full length sleeves. C: neck, armhole and lower edges have raw edge finish, exposed seams. D: patch pockets, standing collar, sleeves rolled up to form cuffs, raw edge finish and wrong side of fabric will show, exposed front yoke seam. A,B: stitched hems.

I made view B.

Pattern Sizing:

XS – XXL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. Although I flat fell seamed everything, which did add on a considerable amount of time.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the finished jacket. It looks very RTW. I like the princess seams, front and back. I don’t love the pockets. Partly my mistake; I should have moved them up because I lengthened the jacket by about 3 inches. They are not completely in the wrong place, but I would perhaps prefer them slightly higher. Also, they don’t feel deep enough.

Fabric Used:

A pre-quilted polyester?

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I swapped the provided one piece sleeve for a two piece sleeve, which I highly recommend. It just gives a much better shape and comfortable feel. I lengthened the jacket by about 3 inches. I added cord elbow patches and a also cut the collar from cord. I flat fell seamed all the seams.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I think one of these is probably enough for me.

Yes, I would recommend it. One thing to note: even if you make a muslin for this jacket, unless the muslin is made out of quilted fabric (or at least fabric of an equivalent thickness), judging the fit is quite hard to do. My biggest tip if you are going to make this jacket in quilted fabric: leave extra large seam allowances, both for fitting and to allow you to do the flat fell finish without sweating (although I did it with 5/8 inch seam allowance).

Conclusion:

Quilted jackets have been around for the last couple of years in a big way. If you are looking for a pattern for a casual quilted, unlined jacket, then this pattern is a great one to have on hand.

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket
Butterick 5683: quilted jacket

Have a great weekend everyone! And keep warm!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted by

By day I work in the exciting world of pharmaceutical regulatory affairs, registering medicines (!), but by night I turn in to a sewing diva, making all manner of clothes in my beautiful sewing space (which you can tour using the link at the top of this blog). I love how sewing and sewing clothes that fit my curvy body continually challenges me. I enjoy working with all different types of fabric, and whilst I don't like to put restrictions on myself and say I won't buy RTW, the truth is that I probably rarely do buy it, preferring the fit of my own me-made clothes. I love to use natural fibres where ever possible and colourful coats are an obsession of mine! Sewing is both my addiction and my therapy. You can contact me at sewmanju@yahoo.co.uk

30 thoughts on “Butterick 5683: DIY quilted zip up jacket

  1. Great job! I rather enjoy the process of flat-felling seams myself, thoug it does seem to take forever. Enjoy your jacket! Looks great on you!

  2. What care you’ve put into all the finishes on this…I am so impressed with this jacket! I wear light jackets quite a bit so I cannot wait to try this pattern. Love, love it!

  3. I’ve got this pattern in my to do at some pile but seeing yours I think it will come nearer to the top. Looks great on you.

  4. I would love to know how you managed to flat fell seam this garment. It looks great! Did you sew it from the right side? I have just bought double-sided fabric, but I can’t get my head round the way to attempt this so it looks good from both sides. Please do a wee tutorial!

    1. Hi Mag, I will see about doing a tutorial…it is just that we are moving house in the next couple of weeks and so I don’t know when I will be able to do it! It really isn’t all that difficult. No, you don’t sew from the right side, but the wrong side. I will try to do a tutorial….no promises on when though! 🙂

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