How are you all? Today I wanted to share with you a quilted jacket I have just finished making using Butterick 5683. Here’s the envelope illustration:
This pattern is rated as “easy”, and it is. It would also, ordinarily, be fairly easy to fit, with the front and back princess seams. However, this is also an unlined jacket, and using (pre) quilted fabric as I was, there was no way I wanted unfinished seams inside, or even overlocked seams where the inner wadding would have been visible. So, for my third project in a row(!) I used flat fell seams to finish all the inside seams. Here are some inside shots:
Now, in case you can’t tell, I love doing flat fell seams. They are strong, fairly easy to do, hide your raw edges, and when used appropriately, can give a garment a very RTW finish. But in this instance they were very time consuming, and in some places, very difficult to do. I had to remove all the wadding from each of the seam allowances to allow me to turn the one of the seam allowances over the other to sew the flat fell seam. Also, it was very hard (although not impossible) to sew the flat fell finish on the sleeve seam and around the arm holes. My biggest tip if you are going to make this jacket in quilted fabric: leave extra large seam allowances, both for fitting and to allow you to do the flat fell finish without sweating (although I did it with 5/8 inch seam allowance).
I also swapped the sleeves out for two piece sleeves and love the shaping they give. And I added corduroy elbow patches and the collar is also cut from corduroy.
I am ok with the fit of this jacket, although if I were making it again I would probably make the back a bit slimmer fit. Even if you make a muslin for this jacket, unless the muslin is made out of quilted fabric (or at least fabric of an equivalent thickness), judging the fit is quite hard to do.
Loose-fitting, unlined vest/jacket has front separating zipper. A: bias tape neck and armhole finish. B: standing collar, side front pockets and full length sleeves. C: neck, armhole and lower edges have raw edge finish, exposed seams. D: patch pockets, standing collar, sleeves rolled up to form cuffs, raw edge finish and wrong side of fabric will show, exposed front yoke seam. A,B: stitched hems.
I made view B.
XS – XXL
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. Although I flat fell seamed everything, which did add on a considerable amount of time.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the finished jacket. It looks very RTW. I like the princess seams, front and back. I don’t love the pockets. Partly my mistake; I should have moved them up because I lengthened the jacket by about 3 inches. They are not completely in the wrong place, but I would perhaps prefer them slightly higher. Also, they don’t feel deep enough.
A pre-quilted polyester?
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I swapped the provided one piece sleeve for a two piece sleeve, which I highly recommend. It just gives a much better shape and comfortable feel. I lengthened the jacket by about 3 inches. I added cord elbow patches and a also cut the collar from cord. I flat fell seamed all the seams.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think one of these is probably enough for me.
Yes, I would recommend it. One thing to note: even if you make a muslin for this jacket, unless the muslin is made out of quilted fabric (or at least fabric of an equivalent thickness), judging the fit is quite hard to do. My biggest tip if you are going to make this jacket in quilted fabric: leave extra large seam allowances, both for fitting and to allow you to do the flat fell finish without sweating (although I did it with 5/8 inch seam allowance).
Quilted jackets have been around for the last couple of years in a big way. If you are looking for a pattern for a casual quilted, unlined jacket, then this pattern is a great one to have on hand.
Have a great weekend everyone! And keep warm!